HOW is a pole measured?

Today I skated a bunch with my older poles, and when I got home, my
new poles had just arrived. I also read the current thread about New
Skate and pole length. I opened the box and found that the new poles
are about one inch shorter than my old poles. I asked for 162.5 ( I'm
6 foot, or 183 cm).
These new poles come up to my chin when I'm wearing only socks.

I think I'll probably mail these back for longer ones. I've been
pretty happy with the length of the older poles.

I measured the new poles without taking them apart, and I got 63.5
inches, or 161.29 cm.

My older poles, at 64.5 inches, or 163.83 cm, sort of fit between the
lengths that they sell. If I recall correctly, I asked for 165s when
I bought the older ones, and after a year or so of use, I sawed off
one inch.

But I'm just wondering, how exactly do you measure a pole?

Thanks,
Erik Brooks,
Seattle

(Erik Brooks) wrote in message news:000701c3c6b2$c6d804f0$6501a8c0@Merlin...
Today I skated a bunch with my older poles, and when I got home, my
new poles had just arrived. I also read the current thread about New
Skate and pole length. I opened the box and found that the new poles
are about one inch shorter than my old poles. I asked for 162.5 ( I'm
6 foot, or 183 cm).
These new poles come up to my chin when I'm wearing only socks.

I think I'll probably mail these back for longer ones. I've been
pretty happy with the length of the older poles.

I measured the new poles without taking them apart, and I got 63.5
inches, or 161.29 cm.

My older poles, at 64.5 inches, or 163.83 cm, sort of fit between the
lengths that they sell. If I recall correctly, I asked for 165s when
I bought the older ones, and after a year or so of use, I sawed off
one inch.

But I'm just wondering, how exactly do you measure a pole?

Thanks,
Erik Brooks,
Seattle


I measure a Pole the same way I measure a German, Russian, Norwegian
or Swede. By their goodwill, hard work and kindness towards others.
However, with ski pole I like to eliminate differences in brand and
grip design and measure from basket bottom to the strap insertion on
the grip-ignoring the extra bit of grip above the strap and the part
of the tip that would be in the snow. This is the functional length of
the pole and is a useful reference for comparing different pole
styles. Skate pole length can vary quite a bit within an acceptable
range. Personal technique and preference will dictate the best length
for each skier. Forward hip placement and a low, dynamic posture may
mean a pole a few cm's shorter than "norm"( FYI Norm uses 165's, his
brother Earl likes 160's). I have observed many skiers being hindered
by a too long pole. It is difficult to gain access to important and
powerful muscle groups and full range of effective motion when you are
too upright. The added time and effort(swing weight) involved in
moving a too long pole can make it difficult to synch with the leg
motion and give a bit of wasted "hang time" where your hand and pole
placement are not in a position to aid forward motion. A certain
amount of time is usually needed to adapt to pole length changes, so
give a borrowed pair a solid try rather than rejecting them because
they feel "different".Prevalently steep terrain can give the nod
towards trying some poles a few cm's shorter.It's a lot easier to keep
the power on and turnover up when you can really get over the poles on
the steeps. There is a lot of buffer available considering the soft
snow surface, # of joints involved, vertical movement of the body and
constantly shifting technique- a cm or two difference is not enough to
be obsessive about.A new set of poles is a good chance to re-think
what you have been using-many people buy the same length out of habit,
not realizing that they have been using the wrong length for years.
Remember, you can always make a pole shorter, so err on the long side
if you are choosing between two lengths, you can custom cut them to
length later.

Nordicguru wrote:

However, with ski pole I like to eliminate differences in brand and
grip design and measure from basket bottom to the strap insertion on
the grip-ignoring the extra bit of grip above the strap and the part
of the tip that would be in the snow. This is the functional length of
the pole and is a useful reference for comparing different pole styles...

The answer depends on who you ask. Nordicguru gives one answer and, as
a functional one for changing grips or comparing poles, it is good
advice. Within reason, your hand doesn't know how tall the pole is,
only where it's pulling from, and that's the key measure. However, when
purchasing poles the common measurement point is from the basket tip to
the high point of the grip. The problems one encounters are that not
all grips are shaped the same on top, not all grips add the same
insertion length (Toko/Yoko 232a add an additional ~1.5 cm, maybe more
-- ask a shop tech) and the strap exit is not the same on all grips,
even within the same brand (e.g., older Swix). It would be nice if
these were all standardized, but that's obviously asking a bit much.
Thus, it pays to be safe on the long side, if strap exit points can't be
compared or aren't known.

One other problem worth mentioning with cork grips is getting them off
and on. It is usually sufficient to heat the pole alone in boiling
water to slide grips on. Infinity grips are an exception, at least with
non-Infinity poles. For taking them off, Swix cork grips don't take
well to boiling water. I had one come apart last summer after 10k of
double pole rollerskiing and the US Swix head criticized me for putting
the grips in near-boiling water (read: we use cheap cork). Since then,
I've found very hot tap water to be sufficient for removal. The main
Swix dealer in the TC region says he takes them in a sauna. The cork
grips from Toko/Yoko and Infinity are made to withstand boiling water,
as are all plastic grips. I don't know about Exel.

Gene Goldenfeld

"Gene Goldenfeld" wrote

One other problem worth mentioning with cork grips is getting them off
and on. It is usually sufficient to heat the pole alone in boiling
water to slide grips on. Infinity grips are an exception, at least with
non-Infinity poles. For taking them off, Swix cork grips don't take
well to boiling water. I had one come apart last summer after 10k of
double pole rollerskiing and the US Swix head criticized me for putting
the grips in near-boiling water (read: we use cheap cork). Since then,
I've found very hot tap water to be sufficient for removal. The main
Swix dealer in the TC region says he takes them in a sauna. The cork
grips from Toko/Yoko and Infinity are made to withstand boiling water,
as are all plastic grips. I don't know about Exel.

Gene Goldenfeld

I used a heat gun last time I had to remove cork grips - low settting and
careful, slow, rotating heating of the grip and they came off w/o damage.
These particular grips were glued fairly lightly because I anticipated
shortening my poles, so ymmv. I've always used the same heat gun to melt
the grip glue before I use it, but tried it for removal just recently.

A hair dryer might be even better since they don't have to potential for
such extreme, damaging heat as a heat gun. I doubt if you could burn cork
with a hair dryer. Grip glue, at least the kind I have which comes in a
tiny little tin container, is just a version of hot glue like is used for
crafts (I think grip glue's a little more rubbery and flexible, but I would
also bet that conventional hot glue gun would work as well). That gives you
a reference as to how hot it needs to be - you wouln't want it sitting on
your skin, but well below the heat needed to burn paper (and cork) for
instance.
DJ