sharpening/waxing

Used to do it to my skiis all the time, problem is, it's been 10 years..
The waxing I have no problems with, except, I can't remember, do I
just keep scraping till none comes off.. Make sure there is none on the
edges too I take it..

As for edge sharpening, do I use a file, or a stone.. I would assume i
hold it at 45degrees, across the bottom, but then it would scrape up the
base.. I'm not going for razor sharp, since I learned on rusty edges and
don't want to have to relearn, but a little sharpening would be good..
Someone told me to forget totally sharping, and tape a penny to a stone,
and place the penny side on the base, so go lengthwise so I get a
10degree bevel or so? Any recommendations? Thanks

Buy something from http://www.tognar.com called Ski Sharp by Ski Visions,
$50. I use it on my snowboard all the time. A little pricey, but totally
worth it.

It's pretty much idiot proof, will sharpen base or side edges at the same
time or one at a time. The bevel is adjustable from 0 (90, no bevel) to 5
(85, 5 degree bevel). Comes with file inserts, buy at least two stone
inserts for $10 each, a medium & x-fine. I sharpen my side edges only at
0/90 degrees because a 90 deg. angle is most durable. First I deburr and
remove rock hardened damage with the medium stones, then use the file insert
to sharpen, and the x-fine stones to polish. I finally finish up with a
gummi stone to remove anything the stones missed. The gummi stone will not
dull edges if not held perfectly straight against the edge. Also useful for
removing rust. If you just need to remove rust, the gummi stone will do, as
will the Ski Sharp with the file inserts it comes with, the stone inserts
are not necessary.

If you really want to learn to sharpen by hand (without a file guide or
specific tool like Ski Sharp), go to a goodwill, garage sale, rummage sale,
or similar and buy the cheapest pair of skis you can find and practice on
them. It takes a bit of practice to sharpen by hand.

The Ski Sharp on the other hand is a time and money saver, a good edge
sharpening isn't cheap and I don't trust those big behemoth machines the ski
shops use, I think they take too much metal off the edges.

-T

"Johnny K" wrote in message
...
Used to do it to my skiis all the time, problem is, it's been 10 years..
The waxing I have no problems with, except, I can't remember, do I
just keep scraping till none comes off.. Make sure there is none on the
edges too I take it..

As for edge sharpening, do I use a file, or a stone.. I would assume i
hold it at 45degrees, across the bottom, but then it would scrape up the
base.. I'm not going for razor sharp, since I learned on rusty edges and
don't want to have to relearn, but a little sharpening would be good..
Someone told me to forget totally sharping, and tape a penny to a stone,
and place the penny side on the base, so go lengthwise so I get a
10degree bevel or so? Any recommendations? Thanks



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i used to have hte skill, it'll come back.. bt i can't remember what to
use in what order. i can't remember if i held the file JUST on the edge,
or what.. i think i would have gone 45degrees, bt seems like tha twould
have screwed the base? I have to do this tomorrow, so buying something
is out ofthe question..

T wrote:

Buy something from http://www.tognar.com called Ski Sharp by Ski Visions,
$50. I use it on my snowboard all the time. A little pricey, but totally
worth it.

It's pretty much idiot proof, will sharpen base or side edges at the same
time or one at a time. The bevel is adjustable from 0 (90, no bevel) to 5
(85, 5 degree bevel). Comes with file inserts, buy at least two stone
inserts for $10 each, a medium & x-fine. I sharpen my side edges only at
0/90 degrees because a 90 deg. angle is most durable. First I deburr and
remove rock hardened damage with the medium stones, then use the file insert
to sharpen, and the x-fine stones to polish. I finally finish up with a
gummi stone to remove anything the stones missed. The gummi stone will not
dull edges if not held perfectly straight against the edge. Also useful for
removing rust. If you just need to remove rust, the gummi stone will do, as
will the Ski Sharp with the file inserts it comes with, the stone inserts
are not necessary.

If you really want to learn to sharpen by hand (without a file guide or
specific tool like Ski Sharp), go to a goodwill, garage sale, rummage sale,
or similar and buy the cheapest pair of skis you can find and practice on
them. It takes a bit of practice to sharpen by hand.

The Ski Sharp on the other hand is a time and money saver, a good edge
sharpening isn't cheap and I don't trust those big behemoth machines the ski
shops use, I think they take too much metal off the edges.

-T

"Johnny K" wrote in message
...

Used to do it to my skiis all the time, problem is, it's been 10 years..
The waxing I have no problems with, except, I can't remember, do I
just keep scraping till none comes off.. Make sure there is none on the
edges too I take it..

As for edge sharpening, do I use a file, or a stone.. I would assume i
hold it at 45degrees, across the bottom, but then it would scrape up the
base.. I'm not going for razor sharp, since I learned on rusty edges and
don't want to have to relearn, but a little sharpening would be good..
Someone told me to forget totally sharping, and tape a penny to a stone,
and place the penny side on the base, so go lengthwise so I get a
10degree bevel or so? Any recommendations? Thanks




---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.576 / Virus Database: 365 - Release Date: 1/30/2004