ski tuning

Does anyone tune their own skis?
My question: Is the first thing you do is clearance the fiberglass above
the side edge so when you sharpen your edges the material does not
effect the cutting/polishing stone you are using?
Does any check the bases for flatness and true?


I have tried several times to get my ski binding tested and it seems to
all lead to a legal document. I was offering to pay off hours any price
even during the summer just for a few hours testing my binding my way. I
want to do din 4 to 12 and see if they match and what the curve really
looks like and then with atomics change the toe pressure and observe. My
other joke was I went to mount snow with a pair and they did the
calculation and I was a 6.5 handed them the skis and he says I can not
set them at 6.5 they are 10-18. Ya so how do I test them?
I think my answer is the vermont calibrator.

On Wednesday, January 9, 2013 5:35:58 AM UTC-8, down_hill wrote:
Does anyone tune their own skis?

Just tuned Bert's quiver yesterday. Some base repair, touch up the edges, wax, lube, etc.

My question: Is the first thing you do is clearance the fiberglass above

the side edge so when you sharpen your edges the material does not

effect the cutting/polishing stone you are using?

The first thing you should do is take a remedial English class. Absolute gibberish.



Does any check the bases for flatness and true?

Does you read your idiotic posts before you hit send? ****, you're not only an dickless coward, you're an idiot.

In article ,
down_hill wrote:

Does anyone tune their own skis?

I did back when I was a teenager.

My question: Is the first thing you do is clearance the fiberglass above
the side edge so when you sharpen your edges the material does not
effect the cutting/polishing stone you are using?

Nope. I never did that.

Does any check the bases for flatness and true?

That I did do.



I have tried several times to get my ski binding tested and it seems to
all lead to a legal document. I was offering to pay off hours any price
even during the summer just for a few hours testing my binding my way. I
want to do din 4 to 12 and see if they match and what the curve really
looks like and then with atomics change the toe pressure and observe. My
other joke was I went to mount snow with a pair and they did the
calculation and I was a 6.5 handed them the skis and he says I can not
set them at 6.5 they are 10-18. Ya so how do I test them?
I think my answer is the vermont calibrator.

Can't help you with any of that....

--
Alan Baker
Vancouver, British Columbia
"If you raise the ceiling four feet, move the fireplace from that wall
to that wall, you'll still only get the full stereophonic effect if you
sit in the bottom of that cupboard."

On Wed, 09 Jan 2013 08:35:58 -0500, down_hill
wrote this crap:

Does anyone tune their own skis?

Doesn't everybody?

My question: Is the first thing you do is clearance the fiberglass above
the side edge so when you sharpen your edges the material does not
effect the cutting/polishing stone you are using?
Does any check the bases for flatness and true?

Don't you do that everytime you wax?

I have tried several times to get my ski binding tested and it seems to
all lead to a legal document. I was offering to pay off hours any price
even during the summer just for a few hours testing my binding my way. I
want to do din 4 to 12 and see if they match and what the curve really
looks like and then with atomics change the toe pressure and observe. My
other joke was I went to mount snow with a pair and they did the
calculation and I was a 6.5 handed them the skis and he says I can not
set them at 6.5 they are 10-18. Ya so how do I test them?
I think my answer is the vermont calibrator.

Just crank them down all the way.


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power in the universe

On 1/9/13 5:35 AM, down_hill wrote:
Does anyone tune their own skis?
My question: Is the first thing you do is clearance the fiberglass above
the side edge so when you sharpen your edges the material does not
effect the cutting/polishing stone you are using?

There is a special tool for shaving back the sidewall plastic above the
steel edge. Got one in the kit, but never really used it, and can't
remember the name. Ended up side filing and carding the file to clear
the plastic buildup. If you really want one, I got mine from Tognar, online.

Does any check the bases for flatness and true?

I have a flat bar, also from Tognar. Tells you if your base is high
centered, has low spots, railed, etc.
"True" - not warped, etc requires a flat table - compress to the table
and see if they rock. Used to be important in the good old days when
each ski would be unique. Shops had various measuring methods so you
could find pairs of individual skis that matched in flex, torsion,
flatness, weight, etc. Not important now - manufacturing is precise, and
matched pairs are checked by the factory.


I have tried several times to get my ski binding tested and it seems to
all lead to a legal document. I was offering to pay off hours any price
even during the summer just for a few hours testing my binding my way. I
want to do din 4 to 12 and see if they match and what the curve really
looks like and then with atomics change the toe pressure and observe. My
other joke was I went to mount snow with a pair and they did the
calculation and I was a 6.5 handed them the skis and he says I can not
set them at 6.5 they are 10-18. Ya so how do I test them?

When a shop tests a binding they not only set them, they measure to see
if the setting on the binding matches the release force. They can't set
them to the wrong release point, but you can lie about your weight to
get a high release point test. Better is to cultivate a relationship
with a tech in a good shop (cases of beer help) - they can do whatever
they want as long as the shop liability isn't compromised.

Years ago (decades) one of the magazines measured release vs indicator
setting for several bindings used and new. IIRC marker was at that time
the only consistent manufacturer. But that anecdote is worthless - it's
been a long time and several generations of bindings.

I think my answer is the vermont calibrator.

Yep. I don't know of anyone who has a private one around here. But
you've got torque wrenches, etc - make a wooden foot with an old boot
sole, and a bolt head in the wood to attach for your wrench and start
measuring. That's basically all a Vermont Calibrator is, plus some tables.

lal_truckee wrote:
On 1/9/13 5:35 AM, down_hill wrote:
Does anyone tune their own skis?
My question: Is the first thing you do is clearance the fiberglass above
the side edge so when you sharpen your edges the material does not
effect the cutting/polishing stone you are using?

There is a special tool for shaving back the sidewall plastic above the
steel edge. Got one in the kit, but never really used it, and can't
remember the name. Ended up side filing and carding the file to clear
the plastic buildup. If you really want one, I got mine from Tognar,
online.

Side edge clearance tool, I have one. Works really well but you still
need to hand trim sections. But I had a brand new set of skis Atomic
redsters tuned by the shop that sold them to me. We will throw a tune on
your skis. I went to check the edges and you could not maintain the
same angle while cutting on the edges with the extra material present.
So I spent a good 45 minutes clearancing the extra material and trimming
the hairs, and scraping with carbide cutter. It is the first thing I
normally do but I had sort of expected the shop to mention extra $ or
just do it.

Out side of true bars I use my surface plate to check ski flatness and
true. But I normally test and view with 30 inch straight edge used for
blocks and heads. Before I look on surface plate. I really only look if
they are new used skis.


Many springs are not linear the more expensive springs are, and they do
not fail the same way. So to keep me happy I am very serious about
testing. & it seems that there is no new Vt calibrators they are all
reconditioned. So there might be a after market niche coming up.

On 1/9/2013 1:10 PM, lal_truckee wrote:
On 1/9/13 5:35 AM, down_hill wrote:
Does anyone tune their own skis?
My question: Is the first thing you do is clearance the fiberglass above
the side edge so when you sharpen your edges the material does not
effect the cutting/polishing stone you are using?

There is a special tool for shaving back the sidewall plastic above the
steel edge. Got one in the kit, but never really used it, and can't
remember the name. Ended up side filing and carding the file to clear
the plastic buildup. If you really want one, I got mine from Tognar,
online.

Does any check the bases for flatness and true?

I have a flat bar, also from Tognar. Tells you if your base is high
centered, has low spots, railed, etc.
"True" - not warped, etc requires a flat table - compress to the table
and see if they rock. Used to be important in the good old days when
each ski would be unique. Shops had various measuring methods so you
could find pairs of individual skis that matched in flex, torsion,
flatness, weight, etc. Not important now - manufacturing is precise, and
matched pairs are checked by the factory.


I have tried several times to get my ski binding tested and it seems to
all lead to a legal document. I was offering to pay off hours any price
even during the summer just for a few hours testing my binding my way. I
want to do din 4 to 12 and see if they match and what the curve really
looks like and then with atomics change the toe pressure and observe. My
other joke was I went to mount snow with a pair and they did the
calculation and I was a 6.5 handed them the skis and he says I can not
set them at 6.5 they are 10-18. Ya so how do I test them?

When a shop tests a binding they not only set them, they measure to see
if the setting on the binding matches the release force. They can't set
them to the wrong release point, but you can lie about your weight to
get a high release point test. Better is to cultivate a relationship
with a tech in a good shop (cases of beer help) - they can do whatever
they want as long as the shop liability isn't compromised.

Years ago (decades) one of the magazines measured release vs indicator
setting for several bindings used and new. IIRC marker was at that time
the only consistent manufacturer. But that anecdote is worthless - it's
been a long time and several generations of bindings.

I think my answer is the vermont calibrator.

Yep. I don't know of anyone who has a private one around here. But
you've got torque wrenches, etc - make a wooden foot with an old boot
sole, and a bolt head in the wood to attach for your wrench and start
measuring. That's basically all a Vermont Calibrator is, plus some tables.

If you can find the tables, the units will be newton-meters. Your trusty
US torque wrench is in foot-pounds or inch-pounds. You will need to
convert units.

VtSkier wrote:


If you can find the tables, the units will be newton-meters. Your trusty
US torque wrench is in foot-pounds or inch-pounds. You will need to
convert units.



No problem
The vehicle dynamics class I just took had units from across the
spectrum. Number 1 issue in college courses requiring math matching the
units when preforming mathematical operations on them, number two is
making sure you are starting with right unit is 74 a inch or mm measurement?

I looked at torque measuring companies and the can output in metric or
merican there were some nice digital ones.

"VtSkier" wrote in message
...
On 1/9/2013 1:10 PM, lal_truckee wrote:
On 1/9/13 5:35 AM, down_hill wrote:
Does anyone tune their own skis?
My question: Is the first thing you do is clearance the fiberglass above
the side edge so when you sharpen your edges the material does not
effect the cutting/polishing stone you are using?

There is a special tool for shaving back the sidewall plastic above the
steel edge. Got one in the kit, but never really used it, and can't
remember the name. Ended up side filing and carding the file to clear
the plastic buildup. If you really want one, I got mine from Tognar,
online.

Does any check the bases for flatness and true?

I have a flat bar, also from Tognar. Tells you if your base is high
centered, has low spots, railed, etc.
"True" - not warped, etc requires a flat table - compress to the table
and see if they rock. Used to be important in the good old days when
each ski would be unique. Shops had various measuring methods so you
could find pairs of individual skis that matched in flex, torsion,
flatness, weight, etc. Not important now - manufacturing is precise, and
matched pairs are checked by the factory.


I have tried several times to get my ski binding tested and it seems to
all lead to a legal document. I was offering to pay off hours any price
even during the summer just for a few hours testing my binding my way. I
want to do din 4 to 12 and see if they match and what the curve really
looks like and then with atomics change the toe pressure and observe. My
other joke was I went to mount snow with a pair and they did the
calculation and I was a 6.5 handed them the skis and he says I can not
set them at 6.5 they are 10-18. Ya so how do I test them?

When a shop tests a binding they not only set them, they measure to see
if the setting on the binding matches the release force. They can't set
them to the wrong release point, but you can lie about your weight to
get a high release point test. Better is to cultivate a relationship
with a tech in a good shop (cases of beer help) - they can do whatever
they want as long as the shop liability isn't compromised.

Years ago (decades) one of the magazines measured release vs indicator
setting for several bindings used and new. IIRC marker was at that time
the only consistent manufacturer. But that anecdote is worthless - it's
been a long time and several generations of bindings.

I think my answer is the vermont calibrator.

Yep. I don't know of anyone who has a private one around here. But
you've got torque wrenches, etc - make a wooden foot with an old boot
sole, and a bolt head in the wood to attach for your wrench and start
measuring. That's basically all a Vermont Calibrator is, plus some
tables.

If you can find the tables, the units will be newton-meters. Your trusty
US torque wrench is in foot-pounds or inch-pounds. You will need to
convert units.



1 newton-meter = 0.737561 foot-pounds = 8.85075 inch-pounds.

Ernie

On Wed, 9 Jan 2013 20:33:11 -0500, "Ernie"
wrote this crap:



tables.

If you can find the tables, the units will be newton-meters. Your trusty
US torque wrench is in foot-pounds or inch-pounds. You will need to
convert units.



1 newton-meter = 0.737561 foot-pounds = 8.85075 inch-pounds.

Ernie

Wow! You must have some sort of computer to figger this out.

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