Jenex V2 100 SR wheel update

Update on the rubber tips :

For ?7.99 I just got some Nordic Dragging poles at the supermarket, branded
"ABBEY".
**They came with 2 sets of rubber tips!**

A louzy ?7.99, while weeks ago at the outdoor shop I paid ?8.50 for a
**single** set of seemingly identical tips, grrrr...

Telescopic 140cm poles, with screw-on baskets for soft soil, standard round
hard tips to slide the rubber ones over. Very comfy straps, smart strap
adjuster. All for ?7.99.
If someone wants 2 sets of rubber tips, I'll find a use for the poles
(Nordic Tent?) and send you the tips for ?8 + some stamps. Or one set of
tips for...we''ll work something out. Not spam, just trying to help.
If you ask nicely I'll ship the whole poles, not sure how good a deal this
is. $26 on eBay UK :
http://cgi.ebay.com/Original-NORDIC-...0QQitemZ878753
6928QQcategoryZ23809QQcmdZViewItem
I have the silver ones.

Packaging says "14/16mm diameter". If that's too big, some tape does the
trick, is my experience.

Anyways, if you're jealous of my deals I'll go to the supermarket again.
Should I stock up?

Happy trails,

J


"Jan Gerrit Klok" schreef in bericht
...
I'm no expert, just that the rubber tips for me are sooo smooth. Just
useless if there's dirt or gravel on the road. But as I wrote somewhere
here
before, there are cases where carbide and rubber are combines. Rubber for
touchdown, carbide for traction. It SEEMS like if I just stich the rubber
tips I'v got over carbide ones, I might have just that. Won't wreck these
doingso before they're worn out though.
My rubber tips were way the wrong diameter, so I shimmed them with some
tape
around the pole. Might ruin some of my traction as the tip sort of moves,
but I'm good most of the time anyway.
I've found that if I lack traction, it helps to plant the poles slightly
differently and use the bending of the alu poles to not let the tips slide
away, remain more vertical.

"Chris Crawford" schreef in bericht
ups.com...
Instead of worrying about Al vs. CF, I would take a look at the
transmission of forces at other areas. A couple of recent messages
have mentioned rubber tips. If they exist and fit your poles these
could greatly reduce the high frequency vibrations as well as take care
of traction problems. Even if they wear out quickly I would try these
if I could find something to fit my poles. The second area you might
want to look at is the strap. Force is applied via the strap onto the
hand (assuming you are not really gripping the handle too much). More
or less elasticicity in the strap webbing and/or padding in the hand
area and gloves would act as a shock absorber for the higher impulse
shocks of the tip hitting the road. In sum - go with rubber tips and
wear a glove with some sort of extra padding under the area loaded by
the strap.

Regards,
Chris

On Tue, 11 Apr 2006 16:05:47 GMT, "ellis" wrote:


It maybe a generalization, but certainly not a misconception. Aluminum by
nature is less forgiving than say, steel. Having had many bikes, including
Easton and Kinesis aluminum, Reynolds steel, metal matrix and various
flavors of titanium, I can only speak from experience, and how numb my ass
gets from a four hour xc ride on an aluminum rig, whereas less so on steel,
carbon fiber or ti.

I think you're imagining it or the different sounds some bikes make is
making you think it's different.

The main frame of a bike is a truss vertically, and can't possible
flex vertically more than a fraction of a millimeter, which is masked
by the vastly larger amount of flex in the saddle, tires, handlebars
and possibly forks, seatposts and stems.

JFT

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Packaging says "14/16mm diameter". If that's too big, some tape does the
trick, is my experience.
Correction, the tip part is obviously thinner, around 11-13mm or so.

Wheels - the Pro-Ski S3, Eplex F1, and Ski Skett Shark all use 100mm x
22mm solid rubber wheels. See a review of both skis (and the V2 100's)
at http://www.nordicskiracer.com/Equipm...Rollerskis.asp. I've
skied all of them (and the V2) and there are more similarities than
differences.

Several skiers have complained that the V2 100 wheels wore way too
fast. Glad they were taken off the market.

Mike

Akers used to sell an aluminum rollerski pole that had a gentle bend in
it, so that it would give a bit when planted. Never tried 'em and
haven,t seen them en their catalogues for a while.

I've also read somewhere, maybe on this site, about poles with shock
absorbers of some sort built in. I know Komperdell makes hiking poles
like that.

Randy

ellis wrote:
"Travis" wrote in message
oups.com...
More like the Common MISCONCEPTION in cycling is that aluminum is stiff
and harsh. Any material can be overbuilt and transmit road vibration
to the rider. (Try riding some early carbon frames sometime if you
want harshness.) This myth started mostly because of early overbuilt
Cannondale frames. (Vitus frames from the 80's, on the other hand,
were very wimpy.)
Back on topic: The pole material is less important than the particular
pole model. Poles are obviously made for snow usage and aren't made
with roadshock dampening in mind. I find poles that are slightly soft
for snow use work well on the road. Also a smooth "powerful yet
consistant" pole plant is key when rollerskiing to avoid jarring the
the arm joints.

Funny how the Jenex site dosen't mention anything about the tire recall
in it's latest "news update"...typical I'm afraid.....


It maybe a generalization, but certainly not a misconception. Aluminum by
nature is less forgiving than say, steel. Having had many bikes, including
Easton and Kinesis aluminum, Reynolds steel, metal matrix and various
flavors of titanium, I can only speak from experience, and how numb my ass
gets from a four hour xc ride on an aluminum rig, whereas less so on steel,
carbon fiber or ti.

We're taking this thread completely off topic here...but you're both
correct and incorrect. The problem, as I tried to explain in my post,
is that it is easier to make steel or Ti frames that are better,
smoother, less jarring, whatever...than it is with Aluminum. Go test
ride a current model year top end Cannondale aluminum frame and compare
it to any other frame material with both bikes having the same wheels
and tires inflated up to the same pressure and you will be hard pressed
to tell the "inherent" differences in frame material. Carbon has NO
"inherent" properties whatsoever as far as ride is concerned it is
whatever you make it...smooth or stiffer than crap. I've been a shop
rat for over ten years working both ends of the floor (sales and
repair) and I can tell you that any material can be minipulated in any
way. (The reason steel isn't harsh is because to build a harsh riding
steel frame it would weigh 10 pounds...in contrast to aluminum where an
overbuilt frame can weigh "only" 3.4 pounds.)

Back ON Topic: Two more "News" updates at Jenex's site and still not a
peep about the tires. Sad really.

As for slightly curved poles "softening" road shock, I can tell that I
notice it on a pole that I bent accidentally and then bent back, but
obviously not back to perfectly straight. That pole flexes ever so
slightly and I can feel the difference.