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#11
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Excessive Leg Strain Carving at High Speeds
"Alex Kwan" wrote in message The strain is in upper leg, centered above the knee (lower quad).. I'll try and adjust the highback and try some of the technique changes you guys mentioned! I think I may be putting too much weight on my back leg and trying to twist my knees when turning.. Are you riding with your weight on the back leg to maintain the carve? You might try moving your bindings back if that is the case. Bob |
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#12
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Excessive Leg Strain Carving at High Speeds
No, no, no, no, and no. Did I say no?
The lady doth protest too much, methinks. To say that any experimentation with stance is verboten seems to be to be a little blinkered to say the least. Saying it multiple times makes me wonder what you're so excited about. Relax and try to explain yourself: shouting and repetition don't help. Your personal set-up is unlikely to be ideal for everyone. That is why bindings are adjustable. Many people I see trying to ride duck "at high speeds" clearly sorely need the benefit of your advice... perhaps you'd like to explain a bit more about how you achieve this with your stance? |
#13
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Excessive Leg Strain Carving at High Speeds
"phil" wrote in message om... No, no, no, no, and no. Did I say no? The lady doth protest too much, methinks. To say that any experimentation with stance is verboten seems to be to be a little blinkered to say the least. Saying it multiple times makes me wonder what you're so excited about. Relax and try to explain yourself: shouting and repetition don't help. Your personal set-up is unlikely to be ideal for everyone. That is why bindings are adjustable. Many people I see trying to ride duck "at high speeds" clearly sorely need the benefit of your advice... perhaps you'd like to explain a bit more about how you achieve this with your stance? this works for me .... http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulleti... threadid=1135 |
#14
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Excessive Leg Strain Carving at High Speeds
this works for me ....
http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulleti... threadid=1135 My feet are too damn big to have such low angles.. =( There's no way I could carve like that... at least not without creating a gigantic trench with my hooves in the process. |
#15
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Excessive Leg Strain Carving at High Speeds
how big is big?
mine aren't exactly small at a UK10 - they just fit on a custom with 18 -6. how about a wide board, risers etc. lots of talk of that in the archives i think ... also the salomon F-series are designed to give a smaller overall shellsize than normal boots by integrating the liner/shell or something. basically means that bigger size feet can go on normal width boards. i tried on a pair of F24s and they we're pretty stiff. nice boots, too expensive for me though ... "Edmunde Lee" wrote in message om... this works for me .... http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulleti... threadid=1135 My feet are too damn big to have such low angles.. =( There's no way I could carve like that... at least not without creating a gigantic trench with my hooves in the process. |
#16
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Excessive Leg Strain Carving at High Speeds
"copek" wrote in message ...
how big is big? mine aren't exactly small at a UK10 - they just fit on a custom with 18 -6. how about a wide board, risers etc. lots of talk of that in the archives i think ... also the salomon F-series are designed to give a smaller overall shellsize than normal boots by integrating the liner/shell or something. basically means that bigger size feet can go on normal width boards. i tried on a pair of F24s and they we're pretty stiff. nice boots, too expensive for me though ... Size 14 US (thought they were 15) Burton Motos... Ride a Salomon Regulate 168, it's a wider board than most... I still can't get away with those low angles =( Believe me, I'd like to if I could... I use Burton Elevators as well (raisers). I still think a more forward stance would be more suitable for carving, although, of course, it's no doubt possible to carve in nearly any stance.. What ever feels right, I guess, roll with it. |
#17
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Excessive Leg Strain Carving at High Speeds
"Mike T" wrote in message . ..
Sharkie, I'd like to hear some details on how you are doing this! Su practice Actually it boils down to 3 movements: 1) pull the board sharply under you towards your rear leg. This way your weight will be more on the front foot, 2) flex your knees. I mean really sink down low, 3) and edge your board. Edge it high, as close to 90 degrees as you can (either toe or heel side depending which turn you do). Now these movements have to be done simultaneously, and when your board is pointing sideways (perpendicular to the fall line). Also you need to be perfectly aligned, any twist might result in a slam, specially on the heelside. During the toe side turn, your knees should almost touch the snow. This will result in a very powerful carved turn. In a split second (or so it will feel) you will do a full C-shaped turn, and you're ready for the next one. When you start doing it this way, most likely you will fall inside the turn because the turning momentum will be so high, but after a while you learn how to balance it. Also, during the turn extend your legs, and shift slightly backwards. This will prepare you again for the next turn. It's actually easier to show it than to just describe it, but hey, maybe we'll meet one day, who knows... Now, to address your other points: But on steeper terrain, I usually see them skidding every few turns to scrub speed, or even carving toeside, skidding heel. A lot of freestyle/freeride riders are not great carvers. Not because lack of skill to learn it, but rather as a choice of riding style. Carving is after all perfecting the turn, and not everyone chooses to do it. And equipment plays a role too: freestyle/ride boards being softer and having shorter effective edge will feel unstable after exceeding certain speed. I know because I pushed my board (freeride) to the limit, going at a speed where I couldn't hold an edge in a stable way anymore. Had to slow down slightly by skidding, and I know I would be able to keep it up on the carving board. So in this case I say it's the equipment and riding style that's the main reasons. Not everyone is a speed freak after all, and if you don't practice on steeper terrain (by staying in the park mostly), the additional speed will feel uncomfortable. They also seem to have trouble carving different radius turns... they pretty much carve all one radius. It's a technique thing. Sometimes riders carve, but don't know exactly how it's happening, and if you ask them to change their radius it's a problem. If you do the power carves mentioned above, you can easily increase your radius by less flex and edging. And if you want more open turns (less C-shape) change your edges pointing more down (as opposed to sideways). A more forward stance allows one to drop the hip into the turn which puts a lot of power into the turn, flexing the board harder, and making a tighter turn. I can see how a duck stance lets you simply bend deeply at the knees, creating the edge angle, but I'm having trouble seeing how you make a really powerful turn. Please educate me! Hope the above explain it all. Now you could ask why would a duck stance be in any way better than a more forward stance for powerful carving. After all hard carvers have a large forward stance. Well, true, but when it comes to hard equipment it's a different steering, different alignment, and different story altogether. The comparison I make is on a soft equipment between a low forward stance and symmetrical duck stance. I tried them both and in my case the duck stance resulted in better riding. And I've seen several riders improve their carves by switching to a duck stance. Why? Not 100% sure. I think one of the reasons is easier alignment. When in duck stance simply have your hips and shoulders parallel with the board, regardless of which turn you do. To prevent forward twist I sometimes ride with a slight reverse twist by having front arm over the toe edge, and the back hand over the heel edge. Keeping the arms stuck in this position will assure I'm always in good alignment. Also, I find it easier to "roll" my feet between toes and heels this way. Feels more natural and makes aggressive edging easier. Try statically w/o your board to stand on your toes then roll to your heels. In which foot position will this movement be more effective? Having your feet facing forward (0-0 angle) or even slightly outward (duck stance) or having them both facing left or right (more forward stance)? Another thing, duck stance allows you to "throw" yourself into the turn same way on toe and heel side. Yes, it takes some (actually a lot) trust in your equipment specially on the heel side, but the end result is well worth it. And yes, I ride switch almost as well as forward. Only the duck stance will allow switch to be as effective as forward riding. It used to be the main selling point for the duck stance, but I think the above reasons take precedence. Try it. Have fun experimenting, and let me know what you think! Sharkie |
#18
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Excessive Leg Strain Carving at High Speeds
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#19
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Excessive Leg Strain Carving at High Speeds
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