roto cork heat?

I recently applied a fluoro to skis using a roto cork, but am not sure
I did it correctly. The surface of the ski got warm, but not very
warm -- roughly like skin temperature. That's much cooler than an
iron. Is that sufficient?

it shouldn't get that hot,,,,,,which is the whole purpose of using a
roto cork. it also depends on the length of ski time, or race distance
that you are doing. the longer the race, or ski time, you should iron
it in, shorter, use the roto cork. it takes a lot of pratice with the
roto cork, to get the best results, but the way you are doing, sounds
fine. make sure you brush it good, and polish it.

Toko's tech manual, online at tokous.com I think, has some relatively
detailed instructions. They say use high rpms and high pressure. After
rotocorking the base is supposed to look oily. Having said that Ian Harvey
recently sent around an upate on cold weather waxing and says low rpms.
Toko believes rotocorking their jetstream will give you durability upto 50K.
Talking to their tech team folks, they agree and this is what Toko skiers
had on their skis at the Birkie. I did too and I my wax seemed good
throughout the race.

For what it's worth, using this technique makes a block of jetstream last a
long time. I have a block that I have used on probably 10 pair of skis and
am maybe halfway through it.

Dave


"kskier" wrote in message
...
it shouldn't get that hot,,,,,,which is the whole purpose of using a
roto cork. it also depends on the length of ski time, or race distance
that you are doing. the longer the race, or ski time, you should iron
it in, shorter, use the roto cork. it takes a lot of pratice with the
roto cork, to get the best results, but the way you are doing, sounds
fine. make sure you brush it good, and polish it.

Thanks guys

On Mar 2, 6:43*pm, John Forrest Tomlinson
wrote:
Thanks guys

Just one note too add - Don't apply pressure to the drill/roto tool.
Let the pressure come from the drill alone. All you need to do is
guide it down the length of the ski. Make one pass at a low rpm
(~500) and then a few more passes at a higher rpm. Brush with a
dedicated polishing brush. I've applied Toko jet stream and Swix FC1
using this technique with successful durability.

Jim