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#11
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Jay wrote: "lonerider" wrote in message The Burton P1MDs are my current bindings (I just sold my Cateks to Mike!) and they are a nice blend of dampened smooth riding with decent responsiveness - unfortunately they cost $270 retail - but I got mine on Ebay for $80 (with a Burton Fish that I wanted to try out). Burton makes you pay a premium for their brand name, and while their high end stuff is usually decent... it's the lower end stuff that I would shy away from - so I'm not a big Burton fan in general. Yep, the P1s are good. They have this system where you can move the strap position without taking the bindings off the board which is actually quite useful. (forward setting for jumps and rails, rear setting for cruising). One thing to watch though is that the straps are non-standard and most shops don't stock them so could be a good idea to get a spare set. Wait, how do you adjust the straps without taking the bindings off the board? From my fiddling with it (I don't have the instruction booklet), I could only seem to move the straps when I lifted the binding off the board. I'm a little confused by how the toeramp adjustment works (I have small feet so I just moved it "in" the most assuming you'd only want a longer base for bigger feet). What else can I adjust (I've rotated highbacks and increased forward lean). Thanks |
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#12
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"bri719" wrote in message ... Andy Sandford wrote: I've used Loctite on all the hardware and nothing has loosened so far... I actually put Loctite on the kingpin first time 'round - DO NOT DO THIS! It took a LOT of effort to disassemble it and I was very lucky to manage it at all... Off to Les Deux Alpes next weekend to try them out on some real snow - can't wait!! have fun Andy.....oh, and ease up on the LT will ya :-) I laugh when I see people with all the hardware on everything they own looking like they painted it blue. not good! LOL bri -- * enjoying the karma * remove LKJSDFJSD from address to email Message understood!... I didn't put THAT much on! ;o)) |
#13
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"lonerider" wrote in message oups.com... Jay wrote: "lonerider" wrote in message The Burton P1MDs are my current bindings (I just sold my Cateks to Mike!) and they are a nice blend of dampened smooth riding with decent responsiveness - unfortunately they cost $270 retail - but I got mine on Ebay for $80 (with a Burton Fish that I wanted to try out). Burton makes you pay a premium for their brand name, and while their high end stuff is usually decent... it's the lower end stuff that I would shy away from - so I'm not a big Burton fan in general. Yep, the P1s are good. They have this system where you can move the strap position without taking the bindings off the board which is actually quite useful. (forward setting for jumps and rails, rear setting for cruising). One thing to watch though is that the straps are non-standard and most shops don't stock them so could be a good idea to get a spare set. Wait, how do you adjust the straps without taking the bindings off the board? From my fiddling with it (I don't have the instruction booklet), I could only seem to move the straps when I lifted the binding off the board. I'm a little confused by how the toeramp adjustment works (I have small feet so I just moved it "in" the most assuming you'd only want a longer base for bigger feet). What else can I adjust (I've rotated highbacks and increased forward lean). Thanks Hope I'm talking about the same thing here. I've got the p1mds from a couple of years ago. The straps don't have holes in the ends. Instead they have a short plastic lug that fits in the slots in the base. The rear strap can be moved to any of 3 positions (I think the recent models have a 4th so you can remove the strap) and the front strap has 2 positions. It's quite tricky to move them, you need to wrestle with them a bit but they will move. Getting the rear straps to the middle position is an art because they tend to overshoot (but the middle position is pretty much useless, IMHO :-) Basically to move the straps you need to push them down and keep the strap vertical while you push it backwards or forwards. I can't remember if you can change the toeramp without removing the bindings. I tried it in a couple of positions and couldn't tell any difference so I left it at position 1 so it comes close to the end of the boot. I lost one once so be careful to make sure it's fully secure if you change it (fortunately some kind soul found it and handed it in. Thanks whoever you are). Jay. |
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