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#1
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best base layer?
1) I perspire a whole lot
2) When skiing I need to change socks and gloves after a couple hours because they get so damp, my hands or feet get cold (they get cold easily anyway, something I inherited) 3) I have mostly used Sporthill base layers, but they don't really seem to wick very well. Sporthill 3SP fabric (not really a baselayer) however is great (warm and very breathable). 4) Some kind of shirt I got from LL Bean, seems to be a dual layer, and is somewhat better. Question; What brand and/or material is the best kind of base layer that can handle lots of perspiration? Smartwool, Capalain, Craft etc??? Thanks! |
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#2
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best base layer?
Gary, What has been your experience going light on base layers and outer
garments? For example, using only one shirt and silk-thickness longjohns? For example, unless it's really cold I use different thickness vests to increase or decrease warmth, whether under an appropriate jacket or above a shirt - and I use turtlenecks a lot unless it's warm. If it's colder, I'll stick a silk or silk-thickness turtleneck on (easy to carry). For longjohns, either silk or Patagonia's silk-like fabric or their Capilene 1 longjohns work really well in most conditions for me (watch for sales). Then it's just the outer pants I vary, from Hind or Sporthill's original Voyage pant (zone 2) to the looser fitting 3SP pant to Craft's thicker cold pants. For socks, I really like Bridgedale's X-C model, but maybe you need to experiment with light (stay away from Smartwool, they're widely recognized as crap - not sure about their other products). As for gloves, I'm the opposite of you and prefer warmer than colder, Sinisalo's lobster being the only one of the type that's worked for me, and their fingered Arctic, with the back straps cut off, being for next warmer. But again, what's your experience going light, such as the Yoko Gore-tex glove or Craft's lighter model? Gene On Tue, 13 Mar 2012 00:31:31 -0400 gr wrote: 1) I perspire a whole lot 2) When skiing I need to change socks and gloves after a couple hours because they get so damp, my hands or feet get cold (they get cold easily anyway, something I inherited) 3) I have mostly used Sporthill base layers, but they don't really seem to wick very well. Sporthill 3SP fabric (not really a baselayer) however is great (warm and very breathable). 4) Some kind of shirt I got from LL Bean, seems to be a dual layer, and is somewhat better. Question; What brand and/or material is the best kind of base layer that can handle lots of perspiration? Smartwool, Capalain, Craft etc??? Thanks! |
#4
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best base layer?
It sounds like you're out for quite a long time, so it would seem
natural to go through some sweating and cold and hopefully back to sweating again. I also sweat a fair amount but am usually not out for more than three hours. In that context, I've tried all the brands of lobster (two finger) gloves available in the U.S. and the only one that my hands don't get cold in, short of extreme cold temps, is the Sinisalo lobster. Somehow they're different. But now I find that rollerskishop.com hasn't dealt with Sinisalo for awhile, just having old stock and not the lobster, and Sinisalo's website doesn't even show ski gloves anymore. Oh well... Gene On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 00:47:51 -0400 gr wrote: Gloves have been a problem; I also go for the very warm- Smartwool liner gloves inside rather heavy mittens (except for very warm times, even the lobster mitts are too cold for me). My hands get cold too easy, but also perspire way too much, I am looking around for vented mittens to try this year. Very heavy ragg wool mitts work pretty well, breathe nicely, but don't block wind and get wet very easily. Pant are the only thing that I don't have a problem with. I wear Sporthill xc pants with no base layer, down to about 15 F. I tried going light this year with just a thin wicking base layer and various light jackets, but it really didn't help getting soaked too much. But I did notice that the LLBean base was better than the others I had, so I am thinking there are some real differences in base layers. Socks work pretty well for wicking, but trapped inside boots they reach moisture capacity in a few hours (good thing for lunch stops in a warming hut!). A thin coolmax sock as base and thicker LL bean Thinsulate works with a mid-day change. Gary On 3/13/2012 12:58 PM, wrote: Gary, What has been your experience going light on base layers and outer garments? For example, using only one shirt and silk-thickness longjohns? For example, unless it's really cold I use different thickness vests to increase or decrease warmth, whether under an appropriate jacket or above a shirt - and I use turtlenecks a lot unless it's warm. If it's colder, I'll stick a silk or silk-thickness turtleneck on (easy to carry). For longjohns, either silk or Patagonia's silk-like fabric or their Capilene 1 longjohns work really well in most conditions for me (watch for sales). Then it's just the outer pants I vary, from Hind or Sporthill's original Voyage pant (zone 2) to the looser fitting 3SP pant to Craft's thicker cold pants. For socks, I really like Bridgedale's X-C model, but maybe you need to experiment with light (stay away from Smartwool, they're widely recognized as crap - not sure about their other products). As for gloves, I'm the opposite of you and prefer warmer than colder, Sinisalo's lobster being the only one of the type that's worked for me, and their fingered Arctic, with the back straps cut off, being for next warmer. But again, what's your experience going light, such as the Yoko Gore-tex glove or Craft's lighter model? Gene On Tue, 13 Mar 2012 00:31:31 -0400 wrote: 1) I perspire a whole lot 2) When skiing I need to change socks and gloves after a couple hours because they get so damp, my hands or feet get cold (they get cold easily anyway, something I inherited) 3) I have mostly used Sporthill base layers, but they don't really seem to wick very well. Sporthill 3SP fabric (not really a baselayer) however is great (warm and very breathable). 4) Some kind of shirt I got from LL Bean, seems to be a dual layer, and is somewhat better. Question; What brand and/or material is the best kind of base layer that can handle lots of perspiration? Smartwool, Capalain, Craft etc??? Thanks! |
#5
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best base layer?
I have been using the Gordini Goretex mitts, not the down ones (lose
insulation when they get wet), but the Goretex doesn't breathe anything like enough. The lobsters I tried did not have anything like the insulation that the full mitts do, so that is probably why they were not all that warm, but maybe the extra surface area of the lobster had some to do with that. On 3/15/2012 1:09 AM, wrote: It sounds like you're out for quite a long time, so it would seem natural to go through some sweating and cold and hopefully back to sweating again. I also sweat a fair amount but am usually not out for more than three hours. In that context, I've tried all the brands of lobster (two finger) gloves available in the U.S. and the only one that my hands don't get cold in, short of extreme cold temps, is the Sinisalo lobster. Somehow they're different. But now I find that rollerskishop.com hasn't dealt with Sinisalo for awhile, just having old stock and not the lobster, and Sinisalo's website doesn't even show ski gloves anymore. Oh well... Gene On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 00:47:51 -0400 wrote: Gloves have been a problem; I also go for the very warm- Smartwool liner gloves inside rather heavy mittens (except for very warm times, even the lobster mitts are too cold for me). My hands get cold too easy, but also perspire way too much, I am looking around for vented mittens to try this year. Very heavy ragg wool mitts work pretty well, breathe nicely, but don't block wind and get wet very easily. Pant are the only thing that I don't have a problem with. I wear Sporthill xc pants with no base layer, down to about 15 F. I tried going light this year with just a thin wicking base layer and various light jackets, but it really didn't help getting soaked too much. But I did notice that the LLBean base was better than the others I had, so I am thinking there are some real differences in base layers. Socks work pretty well for wicking, but trapped inside boots they reach moisture capacity in a few hours (good thing for lunch stops in a warming hut!). A thin coolmax sock as base and thicker LL bean Thinsulate works with a mid-day change. Gary On 3/13/2012 12:58 PM, wrote: Gary, What has been your experience going light on base layers and outer garments? For example, using only one shirt and silk-thickness longjohns? For example, unless it's really cold I use different thickness vests to increase or decrease warmth, whether under an appropriate jacket or above a shirt - and I use turtlenecks a lot unless it's warm. If it's colder, I'll stick a silk or silk-thickness turtleneck on (easy to carry). For longjohns, either silk or Patagonia's silk-like fabric or their Capilene 1 longjohns work really well in most conditions for me (watch for sales). Then it's just the outer pants I vary, from Hind or Sporthill's original Voyage pant (zone 2) to the looser fitting 3SP pant to Craft's thicker cold pants. For socks, I really like Bridgedale's X-C model, but maybe you need to experiment with light (stay away from Smartwool, they're widely recognized as crap - not sure about their other products). As for gloves, I'm the opposite of you and prefer warmer than colder, Sinisalo's lobster being the only one of the type that's worked for me, and their fingered Arctic, with the back straps cut off, being for next warmer. But again, what's your experience going light, such as the Yoko Gore-tex glove or Craft's lighter model? Gene On Tue, 13 Mar 2012 00:31:31 -0400 wrote: 1) I perspire a whole lot 2) When skiing I need to change socks and gloves after a couple hours because they get so damp, my hands or feet get cold (they get cold easily anyway, something I inherited) 3) I have mostly used Sporthill base layers, but they don't really seem to wick very well. Sporthill 3SP fabric (not really a baselayer) however is great (warm and very breathable). 4) Some kind of shirt I got from LL Bean, seems to be a dual layer, and is somewhat better. Question; What brand and/or material is the best kind of base layer that can handle lots of perspiration? Smartwool, Capalain, Craft etc??? Thanks! |
#6
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best base layer?
It's funny because when my wrist was broken this winter, I bought Black
Diamond Mercury Mitts with PolarTec to fit over the cast and my hand got cold pretty quickly on days in the mid teens, while the other hand with the Sinisalo lobster were fine. Had to add a liner. Of course, the Mitts hand couldn't use a pole. I think some or most lobsters are just colder than others. What makes the lobster style work is the fingers sharing warmth, so surface area should be a good thing. Gene On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 10:04:51 -0400 gr wrote: I have been using the Gordini Goretex mitts, not the down ones (lose insulation when they get wet), but the Goretex doesn't breathe anything like enough. The lobsters I tried did not have anything like the insulation that the full mitts do, so that is probably why they were not all that warm, but maybe the extra surface area of the lobster had some to do with that. On 3/15/2012 1:09 AM, wrote: It sounds like you're out for quite a long time, so it would seem natural to go through some sweating and cold and hopefully back to sweating again. I also sweat a fair amount but am usually not out for more than three hours. In that context, I've tried all the brands of lobster (two finger) gloves available in the U.S. and the only one that my hands don't get cold in, short of extreme cold temps, is the Sinisalo lobster. Somehow they're different. But now I find that rollerskishop.com hasn't dealt with Sinisalo for awhile, just having old stock and not the lobster, and Sinisalo's website doesn't even show ski gloves anymore. Oh well... Gene On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 00:47:51 -0400 wrote: Gloves have been a problem; I also go for the very warm- Smartwool liner gloves inside rather heavy mittens (except for very warm times, even the lobster mitts are too cold for me). My hands get cold too easy, but also perspire way too much, I am looking around for vented mittens to try this year. Very heavy ragg wool mitts work pretty well, breathe nicely, but don't block wind and get wet very easily. Pant are the only thing that I don't have a problem with. I wear Sporthill xc pants with no base layer, down to about 15 F. I tried going light this year with just a thin wicking base layer and various light jackets, but it really didn't help getting soaked too much. But I did notice that the LLBean base was better than the others I had, so I am thinking there are some real differences in base layers. Socks work pretty well for wicking, but trapped inside boots they reach moisture capacity in a few hours (good thing for lunch stops in a warming hut!). A thin coolmax sock as base and thicker LL bean Thinsulate works with a mid-day change. Gary On 3/13/2012 12:58 PM, wrote: Gary, What has been your experience going light on base layers and outer garments? For example, using only one shirt and silk-thickness longjohns? For example, unless it's really cold I use different thickness vests to increase or decrease warmth, whether under an appropriate jacket or above a shirt - and I use turtlenecks a lot unless it's warm. If it's colder, I'll stick a silk or silk-thickness turtleneck on (easy to carry). For longjohns, either silk or Patagonia's silk-like fabric or their Capilene 1 longjohns work really well in most conditions for me (watch for sales). Then it's just the outer pants I vary, from Hind or Sporthill's original Voyage pant (zone 2) to the looser fitting 3SP pant to Craft's thicker cold pants. For socks, I really like Bridgedale's X-C model, but maybe you need to experiment with light (stay away from Smartwool, they're widely recognized as crap - not sure about their other products). As for gloves, I'm the opposite of you and prefer warmer than colder, Sinisalo's lobster being the only one of the type that's worked for me, and their fingered Arctic, with the back straps cut off, being for next warmer. But again, what's your experience going light, such as the Yoko Gore-tex glove or Craft's lighter model? Gene On Tue, 13 Mar 2012 00:31:31 -0400 wrote: 1) I perspire a whole lot 2) When skiing I need to change socks and gloves after a couple hours because they get so damp, my hands or feet get cold (they get cold easily anyway, something I inherited) 3) I have mostly used Sporthill base layers, but they don't really seem to wick very well. Sporthill 3SP fabric (not really a baselayer) however is great (warm and very breathable). 4) Some kind of shirt I got from LL Bean, seems to be a dual layer, and is somewhat better. Question; What brand and/or material is the best kind of base layer that can handle lots of perspiration? Smartwool, Capalain, Craft etc??? Thanks! |
#7
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best base layer?
I use the older style simple pole strap (because I must use lots o'
insulation mitts!) poles, so no problem using full mittens. Gary On 3/16/2012 11:51 AM, wrote: It's funny because when my wrist was broken this winter, I bought Black Diamond Mercury Mitts with PolarTec to fit over the cast and my hand got cold pretty quickly on days in the mid teens, while the other hand with the Sinisalo lobster were fine. Had to add a liner. Of course, the Mitts hand couldn't use a pole. I think some or most lobsters are just colder than others. What makes the lobster style work is the fingers sharing warmth, so surface area should be a good thing. Gene On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 10:04:51 -0400 wrote: I have been using the Gordini Goretex mitts, not the down ones (lose insulation when they get wet), but the Goretex doesn't breathe anything like enough. The lobsters I tried did not have anything like the insulation that the full mitts do, so that is probably why they were not all that warm, but maybe the extra surface area of the lobster had some to do with that. On 3/15/2012 1:09 AM, wrote: It sounds like you're out for quite a long time, so it would seem natural to go through some sweating and cold and hopefully back to sweating again. I also sweat a fair amount but am usually not out for more than three hours. In that context, I've tried all the brands of lobster (two finger) gloves available in the U.S. and the only one that my hands don't get cold in, short of extreme cold temps, is the Sinisalo lobster. Somehow they're different. But now I find that rollerskishop.com hasn't dealt with Sinisalo for awhile, just having old stock and not the lobster, and Sinisalo's website doesn't even show ski gloves anymore. Oh well... Gene On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 00:47:51 -0400 wrote: Gloves have been a problem; I also go for the very warm- Smartwool liner gloves inside rather heavy mittens (except for very warm times, even the lobster mitts are too cold for me). My hands get cold too easy, but also perspire way too much, I am looking around for vented mittens to try this year. Very heavy ragg wool mitts work pretty well, breathe nicely, but don't block wind and get wet very easily. Pant are the only thing that I don't have a problem with. I wear Sporthill xc pants with no base layer, down to about 15 F. I tried going light this year with just a thin wicking base layer and various light jackets, but it really didn't help getting soaked too much. But I did notice that the LLBean base was better than the others I had, so I am thinking there are some real differences in base layers. Socks work pretty well for wicking, but trapped inside boots they reach moisture capacity in a few hours (good thing for lunch stops in a warming hut!). A thin coolmax sock as base and thicker LL bean Thinsulate works with a mid-day change. Gary On 3/13/2012 12:58 PM, wrote: Gary, What has been your experience going light on base layers and outer garments? For example, using only one shirt and silk-thickness longjohns? For example, unless it's really cold I use different thickness vests to increase or decrease warmth, whether under an appropriate jacket or above a shirt - and I use turtlenecks a lot unless it's warm. If it's colder, I'll stick a silk or silk-thickness turtleneck on (easy to carry). For longjohns, either silk or Patagonia's silk-like fabric or their Capilene 1 longjohns work really well in most conditions for me (watch for sales). Then it's just the outer pants I vary, from Hind or Sporthill's original Voyage pant (zone 2) to the looser fitting 3SP pant to Craft's thicker cold pants. For socks, I really like Bridgedale's X-C model, but maybe you need to experiment with light (stay away from Smartwool, they're widely recognized as crap - not sure about their other products). As for gloves, I'm the opposite of you and prefer warmer than colder, Sinisalo's lobster being the only one of the type that's worked for me, and their fingered Arctic, with the back straps cut off, being for next warmer. But again, what's your experience going light, such as the Yoko Gore-tex glove or Craft's lighter model? Gene On Tue, 13 Mar 2012 00:31:31 -0400 wrote: 1) I perspire a whole lot 2) When skiing I need to change socks and gloves after a couple hours because they get so damp, my hands or feet get cold (they get cold easily anyway, something I inherited) 3) I have mostly used Sporthill base layers, but they don't really seem to wick very well. Sporthill 3SP fabric (not really a baselayer) however is great (warm and very breathable). 4) Some kind of shirt I got from LL Bean, seems to be a dual layer, and is somewhat better. Question; What brand and/or material is the best kind of base layer that can handle lots of perspiration? Smartwool, Capalain, Craft etc??? Thanks! |
#8
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best base layer?
I go out both long and short duration and always dress light and find
that all my warmth is generated just by steady activity. Thin outfits also wick quick and stay dry. If I stop for more than, like, 2 minutes, I'll pop on a shell vest to cut any breeze. But I go WOOL AND ALL WOOL AND NOTHING BUT WOOL. It breathes. It protects from wind. I suppose I mostly do semi-sheltered skiing, with trees around. But my 90% outfit is thin wool tee or longsleeve or tneck with a Woolrich shirt on top -- shirt can range from thin to thick. If it's 10F in a.m., warming to 20 in p.m., I'll start and stick with wool longsleeve plus medium-weight Woolrich button-up shirt. If it's -5F warming to 10F I'll use thin tneck with thicker shirt. 2 thin socks do the trick. If I'm moving I find even wet feet stay warm. -- We skied our last day for 7 hours with drenched feet, no prob. Med-lite XC gloves. When I first start skiing the hands will go thru about 3 cycles of different kinds of pain if it's 0F lasting 15 minutes total before they settle in on being warm. It's interesting. ....But everyone is different! (If I tried skiing even a half hour with thicker stuff for a given temp I would sweat it drenched and be miserable. My skiing and thinking ability -- and enjoyment -- plummets when I overheat. And I can't ski AT ALL with nylon coated windblocking fabrics. Not even for a "warmup." They stifle me promptly.) --JP outyourbackdoor.com |
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