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Silvretta Instructions
I finally have managed to pick up a used pair of Silvretta 400s. Anybody
have or know where I can get mounting instructions and/or a template. Peter |
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#2
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Peter wrote:
I finally have managed to pick up a used pair of Silvretta 400s. Anybody have or know where I can get mounting instructions and/or a template. Peter I mounted mine this way: Mine are 404's but I think the process would be the same. Put the binding (minus the heel hold-down) on the ski with the boot in place. a) if your ski has a boot mid-point mark, line it up with the mid-point mark of your boot (this is the way my K2 Explorers worked). b) if no boot mid-point mark, determine the cord length of the ski by measurement (not the nominal size of the ski). The cord length is a straight line from the tail to the tip WITHOUT any curve taken into account. Divide this by 2. This is where the toe of your boot will go. Line up the binding with the boot in place with the toe of the boot (not the tip of the boot sole) lined up over this mark. Mark one of the 4 screw holes in the part of the binding which holds the front of the binding. Take the boot out of the binding. Carefully set the binding back on the ski using the mark you just made to align the binding fore and aft. Make sure the binding is lined up with the sides of the ski as carefully and as closely as you can. Note that a slight mis-alignment will not affect release function as all release is from the binding rails which are always lined up correctly with the boot. Mark the other 3 holes (and the first one if it isn't in the correct location side to side). Drill these holes. Measure the length of the screw to be used (determine that it won't go all the way through the ski). Wrap a piece of tape around the drill to be used to limit travel. Pre-thread the holes. Use a screw of the same size and thread as the binding screws in lieu of a proper tap. This is especially important if your skis have a layer of metal in the top. Drip some glue into the holes. Epoxy is not recommended but a waterproof glue is. I use Gorilla glue (urethane). Been using this for years with no ill effects on ski cores. Position the binding and install the screws. You are half done. Position the heel hold-down mechanism so that is will function as advertised. The slider should be easy to move. Mark, drill, glue and install screws for the heel hold- down as for the front of the binding screws. Now, if the 400 is more or less the same as the 404, you have lateral release at the heel piece. Check this function by turning the din for that part of the binding down as low as it will go and see if you can move the heel piece laterally. If so, make absolutely sure that there is a strap or some other leash to prevent loss of this part as it comes completely off the ski. Fine tune your boot fit, I assume that you came close in the first stages of the work described above since you needed your boots in your bindings in order to get the binding in the right place. If the 400 is like the 404, the adjustment screw needs to be flush with the piece that is protrudes from with the boot in place. Heel hold down is disengaged for this procedure. Set DIN number. The binding only goes to 10 (404) so I would never set it higher than 9. Remember, there are two places on each heel piece to set DIN, one is the logical place on the top of the heel lever, the other is on the piece that pops of in a twisting fall. Silvretta has brakes for later bindings but I'm using the supplied straps in lieu of brakes. I don't think they are available for 400's or 404's anyway. From photos I've seen, the main difference between the 400 and the 404 is the heel hold-down clamp. My 404 has a metal/plastic lever combined with a climbing riser. I don't think the 400 has the climbing riser and the lever is a twist affair. Beauty of this binding is that it has complete release, though this can't be tested for lateral release using normal ski shop equipment AND it's compatible with almost any boot you might want to use, including ice climbing boots. Hope this helps. VtSkier |
#3
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VtSkier wrote:
Drip some glue into the holes. Epoxy is not recommended but a waterproof glue is. I use Gorilla glue (urethane). Been using this for years with no ill effects on ski cores. Can you easily unmount with urethane glue in the holes? Epoxy would be even more permanent, which may be the intention, but things change, skis break, etc. I thought traditionally waterproof wood glue is used (yellow glue) and is intended just to protect the core from water infiltration, not to enhance the screw holding power. |
#4
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lal_truckee wrote:
VtSkier wrote: Drip some glue into the holes. Epoxy is not recommended but a waterproof glue is. I use Gorilla glue (urethane). Been using this for years with no ill effects on ski cores. Can you easily unmount with urethane glue in the holes? Epoxy would be even more permanent, which may be the intention, but things change, skis break, etc. I thought traditionally waterproof wood glue is used (yellow glue) and is intended just to protect the core from water infiltration, not to enhance the screw holding power. As an inveterate tinkerer, I have been able to unmount skis when mounted with urethane glue. The screw came out, the glue didn't. Almost all wood glues are not water proof. That is they cannot stand to be soaked and retain their waterproofness. And yes, the glue is mainly to prevent water from entering the core. Back when we would use epoxy to anchor screws when the holes were stripped, we would grease the screw. This would cause the epoxy to make a threaded insert from which the screw was removable. Today we'd use heli-coils. Quicker and more secure than epoxy while being completely removable, both the screw and the heli-coil. I once had a pair of skis which had been remounted so many times that at least 6 out of 8 screws per ski had heli-coils. |
#5
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Peter wrote:
I finally have managed to pick up a used pair of Silvretta 400s. Anybody have or know where I can get mounting instructions and/or a template. I have a scan of the instructions of the silvretta 404: http://fa.utfs.org/mountains/silvretta404.jpg Florian |
#6
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What is the best procedure for adjusting a Silbretta 500 DIN settings.
I am average skier, weigh 165 @ 5'9". I have been using Mountaineering boots and switch to Alpine Boots. Could someone email me an adjustment procedure. Thanks & happy sking. Bob |
#7
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Florian Anwander wrote:
Peter wrote: I finally have managed to pick up a used pair of Silvretta 400s. Anybody have or know where I can get mounting instructions and/or a template. I have a scan of the instructions of the silvretta 404: http://fa.utfs.org/mountains/silvretta404.jpg Florian Note on Florian's scan that I made a mistake for boot length adjustment. It's a squeeze arrangement to move the entire heel back and forth in notches on the side rails, not the flush head screw under the boot. That's the way Fritschi bindings adjust for boot length. Also note on Florian's scan that a jig is shown and there is a warning about having a ski shop mount the bindings, but there is enough information to do it at home using the binding as a jig, including drill size (4.1mm) and hole depth (9mm). |
#8
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#9
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Hi VtSkier
Not sure about 500's, but if they are basically the same as 404's, see Florian Anwander's scan for the 404 instructions. No the 500 is quite different. Silvretta 500 http://images.backcountry.com/images...um/CMH0003.jpg Silvretta 404 http://www.scialp.it/notizie/attacch...vretta404a.jpg Hmm, I use the Silvretta Telemark Adapter, and it is based on the frame of the 500/505. So at least the mounting instructions for the hole drilling should fit. I'll have a look when I am back at home. Florian |
#10
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Florian Anwander wrote:
Hi VtSkier Not sure about 500's, but if they are basically the same as 404's, see Florian Anwander's scan for the 404 instructions. No the 500 is quite different. Silvretta 500 http://images.backcountry.com/images...um/CMH0003.jpg Silvretta 404 http://www.scialp.it/notizie/attacch...vretta404a.jpg Hmm, I use the Silvretta Telemark Adapter, and it is based on the frame of the 500/505. So at least the mounting instructions for the hole drilling should fit. I'll have a look when I am back at home. Florian The two bindings look similar from a function point of view. The 500 side rails look beefier, like they are tubing instead of solid rods, so the length adjustment would be different. |
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