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Rollerski questions I cannot find answers for



 
 
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  #21  
Old April 6th 06, 10:44 PM
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Bob, are you smoking that home-grown again? Of course you need to let
go of the pole when you follow through, even when skating. If you
don't you end up as one of those people who have their tips pointing to
the sun at the end of the poling motion. Oh forget it.......

bt

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  #22  
Old April 6th 06, 11:27 PM
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I meant that he should ignore complaints about +4C snow and my choice of
grip wax. (I *do* wish you would quote what you're replying to - it took a
bit of puzzling to see what part of Rode Super Blue had anything to do with
poling). So, were you trying to make a joke or do you have a suggestion to
make regarding my poling technique?
Bob


"sknyski" wrote in message
oups.com...
Bob, are you smoking that home-grown again? Of course you need to let
go of the pole when you follow through, even when skating. If you
don't you end up as one of those people who have their tips pointing to
the sun at the end of the poling motion. Oh forget it.......

bt



earlier message:

"sknyski" wrote in message
ups.com...
Bob, I thought you didn't use your poles while skiing? ;-) Where did
all this knowledge come from?


I read it in a book. er, actually, I just looked at the pictures. No,
someone else looked at the pictures and told me about it ;-)

Seriously, make sure that the straps are tight enough so that you can
let go of the pole when you follow through. This is one of the the
keys to a long stride (Bob, are you listening)?
bt


Jan: ignore this. It's about striding, not skating.
bt: Another key to a long stride is to get out on the trail early so that
the snow is consistent :-( Last weekend, I had grip on the shady parts, but
not in the sun. Rode Super blue (my new crap-snow wax) doesn't work so well
at +4C. Skating on my classic boards, again.

Bob



  #23  
Old April 7th 06, 02:32 PM
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Grips: Shouldn't be an issue, but the straps are. I won't use any of
the modern straqps systems on th rollerskis 'cuz they won't "release"
if your pole becomes stuck in a crack in the pavement, which has
happened to me about once every two years. Better not to risk a
shoulder injury.

Pole tips: I've never tried or even seen the rubber tips, but I'm
curious. Where did you get them? You're right, carbide doesn't work
on cement, unless it's grooved like our local interstate crossing
bridges are. Don't try regular baskets. They aren't robust enough to
hold up under vigorous poling on pavement. Sten Fjeldheim reccomends
putting a drop of Super Glue down around where the carbide enters the
plastic on roller ferrules to make them last longer. On long roller
skis away from home I carry a spare ferrule and a lighter, 'cuz even
the best roller ferrules sometimes break or lose the carbide.

low heart rate: Likely you need more resistance. I once had a pair of
very fast roller skis and had the same problem. This is one area where
V2 Jenex products shine: variable resistance, either by changing
wheels, air pressure in the Aero models, and speed reducers. I tend to
run 50-60 PSI in my Aeros and have no trouble raising my heart rate at
speeds approximating real snow skiing.

Randy

  #24  
Old April 7th 06, 03:38 PM
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Thanks Randy!

Due to my current rubber tips, I don't seem to get stuck in cracks my eyes
have overlooked, so I seem to manage with the ultra-low-end straps I've got
now.

The local outdoor store had the tips. Old stock, obviously, but I think
Nordic Walkers like them too. Most of them here only drag their poles along
anyway, no need for grip even on forrest trails.

So you regards the Aero's slightly faster than snow? Totally lacking any
benchmark (never skied on snow), it will be good to have something that will
give me an idea how far I am psysically.
I've seen a pair of aero 150 SC's combi's for sale, just wonder whether
they'll be too long for pure skating. I've found ?10 150mm wheels (less
bearings), that appear to even be tubeless, potentially very interesting for
either aero replacement or my future homebuilt project.

I wonder if my Crosskates could really be "too fast". I can now lap a 1000m
lap (flying start) over ultra-fast pavement with only 4 corners in 2m54,
under 21km/h, considerably slower than most elite snow events over 15km.
I've seen rollerski results where they were just shy of double those speeds.
Even with headwinds where I can barely reach 15km/h, my heart rate doesn't
shoot up, my muscles just give in. Take into account that I'm a cyclist that
can race at a decent level without a single training session in weeks, or
months. All-legs, all-arms, all-lungs.
I can't even do a proper V2 now, my arms give up within a minute of trying
to get my timing and symmetry right. Could it be my skiing muscles are
actually super-weak compared to my lungs? When I go for a run a few times
after a long lag, I can easily find heartrates at high cycling level.
Unfortuntely I don't have long climbs handy here to see if that will get my
heartrate up. Just the odd fly-over or tunnel. I'd love to believe that I'm
doing super high speeds for a pair of bulky Crosskates, and how I'm an
extraordinary skating talent to manage those at lower heartrates, but I've
got a hunch it won't be like that. :-)

schreef in bericht
oups.com...
Grips: Shouldn't be an issue, but the straps are. I won't use any of
the modern straqps systems on th rollerskis 'cuz they won't "release"
if your pole becomes stuck in a crack in the pavement, which has
happened to me about once every two years. Better not to risk a
shoulder injury.

Pole tips: I've never tried or even seen the rubber tips, but I'm
curious. Where did you get them? You're right, carbide doesn't work
on cement, unless it's grooved like our local interstate crossing
bridges are. Don't try regular baskets. They aren't robust enough to
hold up under vigorous poling on pavement. Sten Fjeldheim reccomends
putting a drop of Super Glue down around where the carbide enters the
plastic on roller ferrules to make them last longer. On long roller
skis away from home I carry a spare ferrule and a lighter, 'cuz even
the best roller ferrules sometimes break or lose the carbide.

low heart rate: Likely you need more resistance. I once had a pair of
very fast roller skis and had the same problem. This is one area where
V2 Jenex products shine: variable resistance, either by changing
wheels, air pressure in the Aero models, and speed reducers. I tend to
run 50-60 PSI in my Aeros and have no trouble raising my heart rate at
speeds approximating real snow skiing.

Randy



  #25  
Old April 7th 06, 10:02 PM
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On 7 Apr 2006 07:32:16 -0700, "
wrote:

I won't use any of
the modern straqps systems on th rollerskis 'cuz they won't "release"
if your pole becomes stuck in a crack in the pavement, which has
happened to me about once every two years.
Better not to risk a
shoulder injury.


Interesting.


Pole tips: I've never tried or even seen the rubber tips, but I'm
curious. Where did you get them?


In the US they're available via Exel dealers -- I think I got a pair
from Akers (www.akers-ski.com). But I haven't tried used them yet.

JFT

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  #26  
Old April 7th 06, 10:44 PM
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Gee wiz, Bob, don't get your panties tied up in a knot. I was only
joking.

bt

  #27  
Old April 9th 06, 01:31 AM
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There are good reviews all over the web for the V2 Aero 150mm rollerski's,
read them, they might be sufficient for your dirt roads. As the wheels are
smaller, the boot may be located more aft on those than my crosskates,
making the front wheels less loaded, and easier to roll over road debris.


There was a discussion of this last fall:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.s...4ad5cebe2bed02

  #28  
Old April 14th 06, 02:36 AM
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Well, I try to adjust the resistance of my V2 Aeros to ski speed with
either tire pressure and/or the seed reducers. For me that's a little
under 3 min./K skating for a long workout, or 3.5 to 4 min./K for
classic. I run 50 PSI in my 150S's without speed reducers on for
skating, and the same in my 150SC's with the speed reducers pulled back
to the third or fourth notch for classic. I've never really tried to
skate on my 150SC's 'cuz I use the outriggers on the outside of each
ski, plus the extra length and clutch front wheel add so much to the
weight. It might be interesting to try, though. (I need the
outriggers to stabilize the kick when doing classic on the SC's. I
think this is a common need, which is probably why they came out with
the three-wheeled Retro.)

  #29  
Old April 14th 06, 03:39 AM
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Well, I try to adjust the resistance of my V2 Aeros to ski speed with
either tire pressure and/or the seed reducers. For me that's a little
under 3 min./K skating for a long workout, or 3.5 to 4 min./K for
classic. I run 50 PSI in my 150S's without speed reducers on for
skating, and the same in my 150SC's with the speed reducers pulled back
to the third or fourth notch for classic. I've never really tried to
skate on my 150SC's 'cuz I use the outriggers on the outside of each
ski, plus the extra length and clutch front wheel add so much to the
weight. It might be interesting to try, though. (I need the
outriggers to stabilize the kick when doing classic on the SC's. I
think this is a common need, which is probably why they came out with
the three-wheeled Retro.)

  #30  
Old April 14th 06, 07:30 AM
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Thanks for those useful thoughts. With friendly wind, I now lap 1km in 2m49,
pretty much maximum I can manage, flying start too.
I wonder how bad the extra weight really is, since my current Crosskate
setup weighs 3.7kg per foot, well over 16lb total. Most that bothers me on
long workouts, even short ones, are the sub-par fitting boots.
Each workout I get into situations where I do like the clutch in the front
wheels, for safety and laziness.

Doesn't anyone use non-V2 wheels on their 150's? There's various options out
there, that may only need a single spacer job. Mileage and/or weight could
be better.



schreef in bericht
ups.com...
Well, I try to adjust the resistance of my V2 Aeros to ski speed with
either tire pressure and/or the seed reducers. For me that's a little
under 3 min./K skating for a long workout, or 3.5 to 4 min./K for
classic. I run 50 PSI in my 150S's without speed reducers on for
skating, and the same in my 150SC's with the speed reducers pulled back
to the third or fourth notch for classic. I've never really tried to
skate on my 150SC's 'cuz I use the outriggers on the outside of each
ski, plus the extra length and clutch front wheel add so much to the
weight. It might be interesting to try, though. (I need the
outriggers to stabilize the kick when doing classic on the SC's. I
think this is a common need, which is probably why they came out with
the three-wheeled Retro.)



 




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