Rollerski questions I cannot find answers for

Jan,

The weight your describing is probably not a problrem if your goal is
to attain fitness. However, it is a huge problem if your goal is to
improve or learn proper technique. Nordic skis weigh in at about 1 to
1.2 kg....

The advice given to me when I was starting to rollerski was to avoid
heavy rollerskis such as the V2 150 and the Elpex model because they
promote stepping up hill with V1 technique due to the excess weight of
the rollerski. I would imagine inline skates would be better for
developing technique than the Crosskates. Purcahse or build a pair of
lighter rollerskis.

I built skis based on the blue print you posted earlier. The homemade
rollerskis functioned well for about 700km until the rear fork failed.
If I were to build another pair I would contruct seperate forks and
weld or bolt them on the ski chassis. I chose to purchase a pair of
Marwe rollerskis and I love the feel of the wood laminate ski vs. rigid
aluminum. The only problem is the inflated cost of the Marwe wheel.
However, I have used other wheels that are cheaper and function
adequataly.

You stated you are a novice and have never been on snow skis. My advice
would be to forget about 1km interval times (for now) and focus on
proper technique. Take a lesson and have someone film you. Compare what
your doing with what a WC skier (with good form) is doing....

Good Luck,

Jim

Thanks Jim!

Even hills are extremely rare here. As I intend to fit multiple sizes
wheels, I'll remember to use the lighest/smallest one when I take to the
nearest rollerski track+hill. With all the roots under the asphalt here, I
just don't see myself doing any from-home workout on less than 150mm air
tires.

My CAD specialist friend is quite worried about the way the V2 frame is
constructed, with those sperate forks. They do work of course, but are quite
hard to immitate I'm afraid. My friend also dislikes the higher placed axles
for peak loads, but it will have to be done that way for me, I want the
large wheel option.
I was thinking maybe to keep the design as simple to make as possible, and
then just weld on even simpler support plates to double material in critical
places. Shouldn't weigh much.
Please do share your findings in any stage of your new ski build!

You stated you are a novice and have never been on snow skis. My advice
would be to forget about 1km interval times (for now) and focus on
proper technique.
I know :-) It's just something I do to self-motivate on shorter workout on
the 1km track across the road. I need to see progress, and timing a 30km
loop isn't exactly my idea of getting old in good health, not with our
traffic. I do do longer longout (20-30km) where I just ski along and try
different things.
Now off for some technique training and new record attempt :-)

J



schreef in bericht
oups.com...
Jan,

The weight your describing is probably not a problrem if your goal is
to attain fitness. However, it is a huge problem if your goal is to
improve or learn proper technique. Nordic skis weigh in at about 1 to
1.2 kg....

The advice given to me when I was starting to rollerski was to avoid
heavy rollerskis such as the V2 150 and the Elpex model because they
promote stepping up hill with V1 technique due to the excess weight of
the rollerski. I would imagine inline skates would be better for
developing technique than the Crosskates. Purcahse or build a pair of
lighter rollerskis.

I built skis based on the blue print you posted earlier. The homemade
rollerskis functioned well for about 700km until the rear fork failed.
If I were to build another pair I would contruct seperate forks and
weld or bolt them on the ski chassis. I chose to purchase a pair of
Marwe rollerskis and I love the feel of the wood laminate ski vs. rigid
aluminum. The only problem is the inflated cost of the Marwe wheel.
However, I have used other wheels that are cheaper and function
adequataly.

You stated you are a novice and have never been on snow skis. My advice
would be to forget about 1km interval times (for now) and focus on
proper technique. Take a lesson and have someone film you. Compare what
your doing with what a WC skier (with good form) is doing....

Good Luck,

Jim

J

My first two pair of the original V2 Aeros had the forks riveted onto
the shafts, and the rivets all eventually failed. I replaced them with
SS bolts, which worked well.

The newer shafts of my classic CS models has the forks welded on, which
has been fine, except the thickness of the fork material is less, and
subject to bending and cracking over time, on the outside rear fork
that has the outrigger attatched.

My newest shafts on my skating Aeros are also welded, and have the
shaft slightly lower to the ground. Interestingly, I have had less
trouble with them scraping the inside edge of the forks. It may be the
added stability. it may be slightly newer boots, it may be that the
shafts are slightly longer with the bindings mounted about an inch
farther forward of the rear, or perhaps I really am becoming a more
skilled skier. (Mmm. . . nah!)

Randy

J

My first two pair of the original V2 Aeros had the forks riveted onto
the shafts, and the rivets all eventually failed. I replaced them with
SS bolts, which worked well.

The newer shafts of my classic CS models has the forks welded on, which
has been fine, except the thickness of the fork material is less, and
subject to bending and cracking over time, on the outside rear fork
that has the outrigger attatched.

My newest shafts on my skating Aeros are also welded, and have the
shaft slightly lower to the ground. Interestingly, I have had less
trouble with them scraping the inside edge of the forks. It may be the
added stability. it may be slightly newer boots, it may be that the
shafts are slightly longer with the bindings mounted about an inch
farther forward of the rear, or perhaps I really am becoming a more
skilled skier. (Mmm. . . nah!)

Randy

schreef in bericht
oups.com...
My newest shafts on my skating Aeros are also welded, and have the
shaft slightly lower to the ground. Interestingly, I have had less
trouble with them scraping the inside edge of the forks. It may be the
added stability. it may be slightly newer boots, it may be that the
shafts are slightly longer with the bindings mounted about an inch
farther forward of the rear, or perhaps I really am becoming a more
skilled skier. (Mmm. . . nah!)
Randy, what's that scraping? The tires to the fork I take?
With home made's, and supposing the V2 wheels, what inner fork width should
I keep as a minimum? Perhaps a bit wider wouldn't hurt anyway.

I'm going to have to find out in which sizes square aluminum tubing can be
had. Hard to get info if yo're not into that.

Jan:

The scraping I spoke of was the edge of the chassis at it's widest
points, i.e. wwhere the fork material wrapped around the shaft, on the
pavement when the ski was rolled over on push-of. Since the newer
chassis are a little lower to the ground, I would have expected the
problem to be worse, but ist is in fact much better! As I said before,
whether that's due to better stability, boots, binding position, ski
length, or the loose screw on top of the skis (me), I don't know.

I think your inner fork width will be determined by the axle length of
the wheels. It's a little hard to measure accurately with the crude
method I came up with in a quick dash to the garage just now, but that
dimension looks to be about 1.75" or 44.5mm.

Randy