ski boot sizing confusion?

hey all, wanna get new boots, I trashed mine from last year and chucked them
out during the summer

the old boots were head edge boots, and I thought i wrote down the exact
size on the bottom

they said "290/295"

i assume this is mm? the ski shop i called to get some new ones were
confused as to what this sizing actually meant

anyone got any idea? a chart or table or converserion formula?

or maybe i just wrote down the wrong info off the boots?

doh

On Mon, 8 Nov 2004 12:46:55 -0800, "Jason M"
wrote:

hey all, wanna get new boots, I trashed mine from last year and chucked them
out during the summer

the old boots were head edge boots, and I thought i wrote down the exact
size on the bottom

they said "290/295"

i assume this is mm?

Probably, but that's the sole length, which doesn't necessarily equate
to the foot size. Does it matter? You'll presumably try boots on
before you buy, right? In which case you'll buy the ones that fit,
regardless of the sole length?

bw

"Jason M" wrote

the old boots were head edge boots, and I thought i wrote down the exact size on the bottom

they said "290/295"

i assume this is mm? the ski shop i called to get some new ones were confused as to what this sizing actually meant

anyone got any idea? a chart or table or converserion formula?

It's the sole length, i.e. the length that the bindings are set for.
It has a corellation with your foot size, but it's not direct.

My Tecnica Icon Alu is mondo 27.5 (275mm), and sole length (the
number on the bottom) is 315mm. Nordica Dobermann is mondo 27
and sole is 312mm.

i was hoping to buy the exact same boots!
oh well, now im toast, i see what i did - doh!!!

next time ill look more carefully

ho-hummmmm

anyone know if any good boots out there are light'ish in weight? I never
understand why they have to make ski boots so heavy? any manouvers that
require jumping at 11 000 feet start getting really tiring....





"bdubya" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 8 Nov 2004 12:46:55 -0800, "Jason M"
wrote:

hey all, wanna get new boots, I trashed mine from last year and chucked
them
out during the summer

the old boots were head edge boots, and I thought i wrote down the exact
size on the bottom

they said "290/295"

i assume this is mm?

Probably, but that's the sole length, which doesn't necessarily equate
to the foot size. Does it matter? You'll presumably try boots on
before you buy, right? In which case you'll buy the ones that fit,
regardless of the sole length?

bw

"Jason M" wrote

i was hoping to buy the exact same boots!
oh well, now im toast, i see what i did - doh!!!

next time ill look more carefully

ho-hummmmm

anyone know if any good boots out there are light'ish in weight? I never understand why they have to make ski boots so heavy? any
manouvers that require jumping at 11 000 feet start getting really tiring....

As with cloths and regular boots (esp. sports/running shoes) the
darn manufacturers are screwing us by changing models each year.
So if you found something that fits you well, better run and buy
a couple more of the same thing before they stop making it.

As far as light boots - I can only join the questioning. All
ski boots look about the same weight to me, and all are unreasonably
heavy. I'd be willing to sacrifice stiffness for lightness, but
alas - most people don't care about boot weight so manufacturers
don't seem to care either.

The difference in ski weight is quite stunning though. Some Fischer
models seem to be twice as light as anything else on the rack.

Jason M wrote:
i was hoping to buy the exact same boots!
oh well, now im toast, i see what i did - doh!!!

It's even worse than you think. Many company double fit a shell size by
putting a thick inner boot in to make a small size and a thinner inner
boot to make a large size in every molded shell size they make. Means
they only have to build half the number of boot shell molds to cover the
size range. Also means that people who don't know about this have 50%
odds of getting into a boot with a fat mushy inner boot to squish down
and loosen up after a few days wear.

So; the boot sole length you recorded will get you to the right shell
size in "the exact same boot" but maybe not to the foot size you need,
even given you could find "the exact same boot."


next time ill look more carefully

ho-hummmmm

anyone know if any good boots out there are light'ish in weight? I never
understand why they have to make ski boots so heavy? any manouvers that
require jumping at 11 000 feet start getting really tiring....

Weight doesn't matter - keep your skis on the snow and carve them for
turns. What are you doing all this leaping around for anyway? Ballet?
Gymnastics? Let the ski do all the work.

I feel the weight on very steep stuff and on moguls, where it is obviously
impossible to carve

other terrain I agree makes no difference


"lal_truckee" wrote in message
...
Jason M wrote:
i was hoping to buy the exact same boots!
oh well, now im toast, i see what i did - doh!!!

It's even worse than you think. Many company double fit a shell size by
putting a thick inner boot in to make a small size and a thinner inner
boot to make a large size in every molded shell size they make. Means they
only have to build half the number of boot shell molds to cover the size
range. Also means that people who don't know about this have 50% odds of
getting into a boot with a fat mushy inner boot to squish down and loosen
up after a few days wear.

So; the boot sole length you recorded will get you to the right shell size
in "the exact same boot" but maybe not to the foot size you need, even
given you could find "the exact same boot."


next time ill look more carefully

ho-hummmmm

anyone know if any good boots out there are light'ish in weight? I never
understand why they have to make ski boots so heavy? any manouvers that
require jumping at 11 000 feet start getting really tiring....

Weight doesn't matter - keep your skis on the snow and carve them for
turns. What are you doing all this leaping around for anyway? Ballet?
Gymnastics? Let the ski do all the work.

Jason M wrote:
I feel the weight on very steep stuff and on moguls, where it is obviously
impossible to carve

Not all that obvious, and not all that impossible.


other terrain I agree makes no difference


"lal_truckee" wrote in message
...

Jason M wrote:

i was hoping to buy the exact same boots!
oh well, now im toast, i see what i did - doh!!!

It's even worse than you think. Many company double fit a shell size by
putting a thick inner boot in to make a small size and a thinner inner
boot to make a large size in every molded shell size they make. Means they
only have to build half the number of boot shell molds to cover the size
range. Also means that people who don't know about this have 50% odds of
getting into a boot with a fat mushy inner boot to squish down and loosen
up after a few days wear.

So; the boot sole length you recorded will get you to the right shell size
in "the exact same boot" but maybe not to the foot size you need, even
given you could find "the exact same boot."


next time ill look more carefully

ho-hummmmm

anyone know if any good boots out there are light'ish in weight? I never
understand why they have to make ski boots so heavy? any manouvers that
require jumping at 11 000 feet start getting really tiring....

Weight doesn't matter - keep your skis on the snow and carve them for
turns. What are you doing all this leaping around for anyway? Ballet?
Gymnastics? Let the ski do all the work.

"lal_truckee" wrote

It's even worse than you think. Many company double fit a shell size by putting a thick inner boot in to make a small size and a
thinner inner boot to make a large size in every molded shell size they make. Means they only have to build half the number of
boot shell molds to cover the size range. Also means that people who don't know about this have 50% odds of getting into a boot
with a fat mushy inner boot to squish down and loosen up after a few days wear.

I've heard you're supposed to take out the liner, stick your foot into
the shell and see how much space is left in the heel when the toe is
touching the boot. And only then try to put the boot on with the liner
in it.

Weight doesn't matter - keep your skis on the snow and carve them for turns. What are you doing all this leaping around for
anyway? Ballet? Gymnastics? Let the ski do all the work.

Ever heard about inertia?

Also, the assumption that carving is always the best way to go down
the slope is definitely incorrect, even if you don't take people on
park skis into consideration.

Boot fit is different from model to model, year to year. You'd
be best to just get re-measured anyway, and to get that done
at more than one shop. Don't let anyone sell you a boot
that's too short. Too long isn't as critical, you can fix that.
Don't buy a boot without wearing it for hours, don't buy a
boot without trying just about every boot there is available. If
you're in trouble with a fit, the boot can be blown out in
certain spots, and you can get better footbeds than what the
boot comes with.

The boot probably said "29 "point" 0", and 29.5. The
difference would be in the liner. Bigger liner for 29.0,
smaller liner for 29.5.

Your ski shop is populated with morons.


"Jason M" wrote in message
...
hey all, wanna get new boots, I trashed mine from last year and chucked
them
out during the summer

the old boots were head edge boots, and I thought i wrote down the exact
size on the bottom

they said "290/295"

i assume this is mm? the ski shop i called to get some new ones were
confused as to what this sizing actually meant

anyone got any idea? a chart or table or converserion formula?

or maybe i just wrote down the wrong info off the boots?

doh