Heel brake for 100mm skate wheels

This heel brake can be sufficiently used for 100mm frames and others.
If it is too high, just shim it with piece of wood w/hole in it.

http://www.adamsinline.com/hardware_imgs/brake.jpg

Are any rollerskis suitable for heel brakes? --Or are the angles all wrong? --JP

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Probably can't get the leverage to make a back brake on a rollerski effective.

Jeff Potter wrote:Are any rollerskis suitable for heel brakes? --Or are the angles all wrong? --JP








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DIVProbably can't get the leverage to make a back brake on a rollerski effective.BRBRBIJeff Potter >/I/B wrote:
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I don't see how you "could" use a heel brake on a typical rollerski. =
There's too much to lift at the front end compared to a rollerblade and =
you couldn't push down hard enough, it seems to me. The Jenex Nordixc =
has a built-in heel brake, but it's different because of the pneumatic =
wheels. It just pushes down onto the back wheels. I just got mine about =
a week ago, but I haven't been able to use them because of a knee injury =
from skiing last winter. I'm in p.t. though, and it seems to be working, =
though I've just had one treatment. I'll wait for about a week before I =
go out on the rollerskis to see if my knee can take it. I'm not into =
racing or anything. I just want to get a good workout, and I can't from =
my rollerblades. They are too easy.

June

"Jeff Potter" wrote in message =
m...
Are any rollerskis suitable for heel brakes? --Or are the angles all =
wrong? --JP

How could that brake be used with 100mm frames?

Serge wrote
This heel brake can be sufficiently used for 100mm frames
http://adamsinline.com/hardware_imgs/brake.jpg

I just phoned the Adams Inline people who run that website, and they said,
No that brake cannot be used with 100mm frames.

I own a PowerSlide heel-brake that's very similar to that model in the
photo, and while mine works for 80mm or 84 mm wheels, it plainly will not
fit on a 100 mm frame -- because the distance between the two rear-most
axles is larger than the longest range of the holes on the long straight
"arm" on the brake.

I also asked the very knowledgeable distributor of PowerSlide brakes who
sold me mine, and he also said it cannot be used with 100 mm wheels.

Ken

(Cloutier Jim) wrote in message oo.com...
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Probably can't get the leverage to make a back brake on a rollerski effective.


Yes it's effective.
I have a homemade one. Needs a bit of practice but this is the only
efficient "emergency" break up I know up to now.

One of the designs, Enduro rollerski, has similar brake,
only you pull wire attached by hand and it pivots on one of
the axles, so you don't have to tilt a foot at all.

Unlike skate breaks it doesn't bother crossovers and unlike
other rollerski designs it has no connection to the wheel
so it does not rely on wheel traction.

I didn't like the absence of a ski boot on Enduro and lack of
traditional binding, let alone 4-wheel design,
so I never got to try it.

I just got a phone call from the manufacturer, and said,
No way can that brake be used with 100mm wheels, because the spacing is
completely different. They might have a new model for bigger wheels in a
few months.

Serge wrote
This heel brake can be sufficiently used for 100mm frames
http://adamsinline.com/hardware_imgs/brake.jpg

Also there's been some vigorous comments about that particular heel-brake
design on the rec.sport.skating.inline newsgroup.

Ken

A road bicycle is easier than inline skates -- less rolling resistance and
more efficient muscles-to-forward-propulsion power transfer. But some
people still can get a good workout on a bicycle. And some people do on
skates.

Diva June wrote
I just want to get a good workout, and I
can't from my rollerblades. They are too easy.

The way people get a hard high-power workout on a road bicycle is by going
_faster_, because then the air resistance gets real big so it's hard work.
Same with inline skates: trying to chase the bicycles around Manhattan's
Central Park loop results in plenty high heart rate and sweat and rate of
burning calories.

Some skaters _do_ consistently get a hard high-power workout on inlines.
But do keep in mind that most training hours are _supposed_ to be non-hard,
and that some very respected ski coaches have said that low-resistance
wheels are a good way to work on better technique.

People do not get much of workout on skates because they don't go fast
enough. Sometimes because they don't know _how_, like they haven't learned
to push effectively out to the side and angle the wheel-frame more forward.

But I think usually it's because most skaters are _afraid_ to go faster.
And for most skaters with their current competences and environments, I
think that's a well-grounded fear and an intelligent decision to stay
slower.

Which raises the question of how some bicyclists are _not_ afraid to go
faster. (a) The main reason is they know how to use their _brakes_ to stop
quickly when something unexpected happens. (b) Another is that those
big-diameter bicycle wheels can roll over little hard-to-see obstacles like
gravel and twigs without making their riders fall over. (c) Another is that
some of them spend more time learning and practicing tactics for dealing
with the complexities of a moving environment, especially motor vehicles,
but also pedestrians with dogs, and children, etc. (d) increase the rolling
resistance by using knobby tires on coarser pavement or softer non-pavement.

Some ways to apply these ideas to inline skates:
(a1) Learn and practice and practice really effective stopping techniques.
Take lessons in stopping and maneuvering, and read websites and books about
it.
(a2) get 4-wheel "fitness" skates with a heel-brake, not 5-wheel skates
(since a heel-brake is inherently less effective on a 5-wheel skate). And
practice using the heel-brake to the point where you can stop with full
body-weight on the brake pad and squeal the rubber (but this might not be
possible on some skates, especially 5-wheel).
(b1) find places with clean dry pavement. Beware of pavement underneath
trees, which drop twigs and leaves and water. Beware of the not only the
rainy day, but also the day after.
(b2) get skates with larger-diameter wheels, at least 80mm.
(c1) find places with good visibility ahead and behind (not tight blind
curves), and to the sides.
(c2) learning to effectively deal with motor vehicles opens up lots more
possibilities for finding places that satisfy b2 and c1.
(d1) use slower wheels: like two or four rubber wheels on each skate, e.g.
K2 Continental wheels (or possibly the Rollerblade Coyote skate?). And on
wet pavement, normal plastic-polyurethane skate wheels typically slip much
worse than rubber wheels.
(d2) find some coarser-stone pavement. Avoid very-fine-stone pavement and
smooth concrete.

Ken

(a2) get 4-wheel "fitness" skates with a heel-brake, not 5-wheel skates
(since a heel-brake is inherently less effective on a 5-wheel skate). And
practice using the heel-brake to the point where you can stop with full
body-weight on the brake pad and squeal the rubber (but this might not be
possible on some skates, especially 5-wheel).




4-wheel fitnesses skates come with high cuff boot which is murderess for
skating and skiing technique alike.

Here is why:

Skating: no bending knees and sitting as low as possible,
no bending inside- out at the ankle.

Skiing: no simulation exercise since skates do not "pivot" at
the tip and provide "feel" different from ski and roller ski when "pushed".

In my opinion 4-wheel fitness skates w/high cuff boot are among
other products, created by sly marketeers to give public a
half-ass product that does not require learning but resembles a real
thing somewhat.

We also have tricycles, 30"-wide flat bottom kayaks and vast array
of other things that feel warm and cozy the minute you get them.