Wax Question

What is the best way to wax my board? Hot wax or maybe just a rub on wax, I
heard graphite waxes are good? I need to find out what the best tune up
procedure is.

Thanks,
Kevin

Den Sun, 30 Nov 2003 15:45:26 +0000, skrev Kevin:

What is the best way to wax my board? Hot wax or maybe just a rub on wax, I
heard graphite waxes are good? I need to find out what the best tune up
procedure is.

The rub on stuff is best for temporary tuning, I'd recommend using hotwax
as often as possible. I may be overkilling, but I almost always take the
time to hotwax before I hit the slopes. Or the backcountry

Ah, 10cm of fresh in Hemsedal... time to get the seasons first tracks real
soon now

--
Kenneth Rørvik
Ostadalsveien 11 A, 0875 OSLO
http://kenneth.rorvik.net

Yup, look it up on the web. It's probably in the FAQ.

Get universal wax and iron it in. You can easily tell at the end of a day if
you need to refresh it, just check the feel of the base. Graphite/ whavever:
mostly ********, the biggest difference you'll see is between having a waxed
board and one which isn't.

One thing i have found to be a huge time save, as well as a wax saver, is
when you are hot waxing, rather then dripping the wax to the board and then
ironing and scraping, take the stick of wax, and do a full rub on
application you use way less wax, then once you have covered the board that
way, iron it like you would normally do your hot wax, you are basically
just melting the wax that is already in place on the board, makes the job
super fast, and you have very little waste of wax when you scrape, the job
is cleaner more complete coverage and you save your precious wax.
especially if your using more expensive hot waxes.

i have been using the drip on and iron method for a long time, always
thought it was such a pain, this was super fast, and got the coverage that
i always try to get with the drip on, but you always end up dripping on to
much and wasting it when you scrape it all off again.

Just a thought. works for me

"phil" wrote in message
...
Yup, look it up on the web. It's probably in the FAQ.

Get universal wax and iron it in. You can easily tell at the end of a day
if
you need to refresh it, just check the feel of the base. Graphite/
whavever:
mostly ********, the biggest difference you'll see is between having a
waxed
board and one which isn't.

...and got the coverage that
i always try to get with the drip on....

I suspect that works better with certain bases and certain waxes. I've
tried using this method and I've never been able to saturate the pores
by simply "crayoning" it on except with very, very soft waxes.
Although I do often use this method to mix waxes... crayon some
cold-temp wax near the edges and then drip on the "correct" temp wax...
it tends to mix nicely that way and the cold temp wax near the edges
helps it wear off more evenly as opposed to wearing off at the edges
first.

I used to be meticulous with my waxing but now I use paste. It's not as
good as hot wax in certain conditions but paste makes it easy to expose the
structure and works great in wet condition when you really need it.

Swix and Toko paste are both good.

"Mike T" wrote in message
news
...and got the coverage that
i always try to get with the drip on....

I suspect that works better with certain bases and certain waxes. I've
tried using this method and I've never been able to saturate the pores
by simply "crayoning" it on except with very, very soft waxes.
Although I do often use this method to mix waxes... crayon some
cold-temp wax near the edges and then drip on the "correct" temp wax...
it tends to mix nicely that way and the cold temp wax near the edges
helps it wear off more evenly as opposed to wearing off at the edges
first.

Thanks for all the advice everyone! Do you think I would notice much of a
difference between the hot wax and the paste wax? I am an intermediate rider
making the transition from skiing

..
"og" wrote in message
...
I used to be meticulous with my waxing but now I use paste. It's not as
good as hot wax in certain conditions but paste makes it easy to expose
the
structure and works great in wet condition when you really need it.

Swix and Toko paste are both good.

"Mike T" wrote in message
news
...and got the coverage that
i always try to get with the drip on....

I suspect that works better with certain bases and certain waxes. I've
tried using this method and I've never been able to saturate the pores
by simply "crayoning" it on except with very, very soft waxes.
Although I do often use this method to mix waxes... crayon some
cold-temp wax near the edges and then drip on the "correct" temp wax...
it tends to mix nicely that way and the cold temp wax near the edges
helps it wear off more evenly as opposed to wearing off at the edges
first.

A little advice on paste.. I like to start with a freshly tuned board that
has been hot waxed, thoroughly
scraped, and brushed so the structure is open (very important). I find a
board completely stripped and cleaned of all wax will not work as well with
paste. The key to paste, and all wax for that matter, is to keep the base
clean of dirt. I use glass cleaner or 409 spray before paste wax. After
several applications of paste I'll use some lightweight wax remover to strip
and also scrape. I don't use solvent wax remover because it makes for a
lot more work restoring the wax. Dirt is your biggest enemy and that's
another reason I like paste; it's easy to clean..


Nothing beats a good hot wax but a good hot wax is a lot of work. It takes
time and sweat to properly scrape. IMO most hot wax jobs are not properly
finished. Especially ones from a shop as they don't have the time to scrape
and brush in wax as they should.

Imo, paste is a better universal wax than hot wax but hot wax is a better
temperature specific application.

Waxing is an art and your results will vary..






"Kevin" wrote in message
...
Thanks for all the advice everyone! Do you think I would notice much of a
difference between the hot wax and the paste wax? I am an intermediate
rider
making the transition from skiing

.
"og" wrote in message
...
I used to be meticulous with my waxing but now I use paste. It's not as
good as hot wax in certain conditions but paste makes it easy to expose
the
structure and works great in wet condition when you really need it.

Swix and Toko paste are both good.

"Mike T" wrote in message
news
...and got the coverage that
i always try to get with the drip on....

I suspect that works better with certain bases and certain waxes.
I've
tried using this method and I've never been able to saturate the pores
by simply "crayoning" it on except with very, very soft waxes.
Although I do often use this method to mix waxes... crayon some
cold-temp wax near the edges and then drip on the "correct" temp
wax...
it tends to mix nicely that way and the cold temp wax near the edges
helps it wear off more evenly as opposed to wearing off at the edges
first.

Yep, this method also works best for me. I've tried the dripping method
once, cost me half a bar of wax, now I'm 3 jobs further and I still have
some of the other halve left
I don't even scrape the wax off anymore, I just buff it.
The excess wax (and that's not much) is gone after one run.

greetz,
Cornelis

"Marty" wrote in message
...
One thing i have found to be a huge time save, as well as a wax saver, is
when you are hot waxing, rather then dripping the wax to the board and
then
ironing and scraping, take the stick of wax, and do a full rub on
application you use way less wax, then once you have covered the board
that
way, iron it like you would normally do your hot wax, you are
basically
just melting the wax that is already in place on the board, makes the job
super fast, and you have very little waste of wax when you scrape, the
job
is cleaner more complete coverage and you save your precious wax.
especially if your using more expensive hot waxes.

i have been using the drip on and iron method for a long time, always
thought it was such a pain, this was super fast, and got the coverage
that
i always try to get with the drip on, but you always end up dripping on to
much and wasting it when you scrape it all off again.

Just a thought. works for me

"phil" wrote in message
...
Yup, look it up on the web. It's probably in the FAQ.

Get universal wax and iron it in. You can easily tell at the end of a
day
if
you need to refresh it, just check the feel of the base. Graphite/
whavever:
mostly ********, the biggest difference you'll see is between having a
waxed
board and one which isn't.

"Marty" wrote in message ...
One thing i have found to be a huge time save, as well as a wax saver, is
when you are hot waxing, rather then dripping the wax to the board and then
ironing and scraping, take the stick of wax, and do a full rub on
application you use way less wax, then once you have covered the board that
way, iron it like you would normally do your hot wax,

Interesting idea. Have to try it. The only question is, is the amount of wax
you put on the base through rubbing enough to fill all the base pores?
If it is, then I'm surprised this is not the "official" way of waxing.
Or maybe it is, I never saw a shop do it; all the "wax-it-yourself"
manuals I've seen mentioned the drip method.