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#1
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cold powder works how?
Recently I ironed my skis with a high flouro wax for the teensF (Solda
F31 Violet) and then put on some of Solda's S20, which is a ahrd antistatic wax in powder form. This was the company's recommendation for the conditions and it worked really well -- the conditions were new snow in the teensF. But what I don't understand is why the two-wax application? Why a medium-hard wax plus a hard powder, instead of a harder wax from the start? I guess I should've tested that myself, but does anyone have any thoughts on this? JT **************************** Remove "remove" to reply Visit http://www.jt10000.com **************************** |
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#2
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The only cold powder product I'm used to is the Toko. I've always
considered it just a super hard parafin wax. I haven't had a super lot of experience with it, but have used it to good effect when the snow was really cold, especially fresh sharp crystals. Not so much for static, but just to get a harder wax. Also, in my limited experience, I've used it with waxes that don't have a super cold range to begin with, but never a relatively warm wax - only with the coldest wax in a product line. For instance, I've used it with Holmenkol EC and Toko Blue, but not with Swix XX4 or Start Green. I've never used it with warmer waxes of those lines. I've used it two ways, and really don't think there's much difference: (a) iron the first wax then sprinkle the cold powder on that and then iron in both to mix them and iron them in. (b) wax with first wax, scrape and brush, then sprinkle cold powder, iron in, scrape, brush. I prefer (a). As for which works better of all the possible combinations or methods mentioned above, - no way to guess without testing. I'm not super serious so I just either ask my waxing guru which he recommends or just pick one of my . For antistatic, I've used a graphite or moly product. Don't get me started on that! (again, I've dabbled in doing a separate "pre" layer and mixing with the wax of the day - couldn't tell you which way works better. Again, I'm certainly no expert - and don't have any familiarity with the Solda products, so what I've written probably doesn't have any relevance. |
#3
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I think the idea is that when you wax, something like 75% (a guess) of
the old wax in the ski is exchanged for the new wax that you're applying. If you wax again with the same new wax, you might push that up to 90% (again, a guess). So if you're racing on ground up ice in the upper teens, that's very abrasive snow. So you might wax multiple times with a hard wax trying to get a durable wax into the base. Then you might do a single layer of something high flouro that's softer. The high fluoro softer wax will glide well, but won't last long if it's in the base alone. The harder base layer is there to add durability. I think various waxers have been trying combos to find some extra glide. I find the Solda recommendations interesting. I think by applying a hard wax over a softer fluor, you would tend to soften up the hard wax just a bit and give it a little flour also. Another interesting concept would be that the fluoro makes the hard wax wear a little faster. So when a sharp snow crystal digs into the base, a few molecules of wax may flake off. (This is just my weird imagination, no facts here). I think this is also the concept that makes pure flouoros work at very cold temps. Anyway, it's interesting to see Solda mix pure fluor and cold synthetic wax for cold temps. So instead of mixing (and layering) the wax in the ski, they're mixing before putting it on the ski. Jay Wenner |
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