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#1
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fluoro powder need input
i finally got a wax-fluoro combination to work well (by well i mean i
was significantly faster than some of my competitors coasting downhill). this is what i did i am asking for input. i ironed on a high fluoro content wax let it cool then scraped the wax off. no brushing yet. then i sprinkled on some fluoro powder (the really small particle kind). then i ironed that on. then i scraped it again, brushed with copper then nylon then horsehair. the reason i did this was i thought my bases would stand a better chance of not getting heat damage if there was more wax on the bases when i ironed on the fluoro powder. i did not expect to get the speed but this is the fastest technique in my hands so far. anyone else do it this way? any ideas on why this is a good or bad technique? thank you. |
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#2
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fluoro powder need input
Sounds about right to me wintermutt.
If its really warm conditions with wet snow or water I'd add some big structure with my Toko "press in" structure tool too... JKal. It is amazing how much speed the fluoros give you in these conditions. On Mar 9, 2:10*am, wintermutt wrote: i finally got a wax-fluoro combination to work well (by well i mean i was significantly faster than some of my competitors coasting downhill). this is what i did i am asking for input. i ironed on a high fluoro content wax let it cool then scraped the wax off. no brushing yet. then i sprinkled on some fluoro powder (the really small particle kind). then i ironed that on. then i scraped it again, brushed with copper then nylon then horsehair. the reason i did this was i thought my bases would stand a better chance of not getting heat damage if there was more wax on the bases when i ironed on the fluoro powder. i did not expect to get the speed but this is the fastest technique in my hands so far. anyone else do it this way? any ideas on why this is a good or bad technique? thank you. |
#3
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fluoro powder need input
On Mar 10, 9:02*am, 32 Degrees B wrote:
Sounds about right to me wintermutt. If its really warm conditions with wet snow or water I'd add some big structure with my Toko "press in" structure tool too... JKal. It is amazing how much speed the fluoros give you in these conditions. On Mar 9, 2:10*am, wintermutt wrote: i finally got a wax-fluoro combination to work well (by well i mean i was significantly faster than some of my competitors coasting downhill). this is what i did i am asking for input. i ironed on a high fluoro content wax let it cool then scraped the wax off. no brushing yet. then i sprinkled on some fluoro powder (the really small particle kind). then i ironed that on. then i scraped it again, brushed with copper then nylon then horsehair. the reason i did this was i thought my bases would stand a better chance of not getting heat damage if there was more wax on the bases when i ironed on the fluoro powder. i did not expect to get the speed but this is the fastest technique in my hands so far. anyone else do it this way? any ideas on why this is a good or bad technique? thank you.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - where do i learn how do use a structure tool? does it really help that much.?? |
#4
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fluoro powder need input
wintermutt wrote:
where do i learn how do use a structure tool? does it really help that much.?? If you ski well enough to appreciate different types of snow conditions and how your speed varies with them, then structure is helpful and, in racing, important no matter where you are in the pack. It's about how the snow melt caused by the friction of your skis is handled on the ski's surface. It's the difference between creating suction that slows you down because the water has nowhere to go, vs. cutting through more efficiently by channeling it across the ski base. Thus, we're talking warmer temps, maybe upper 20s and higher. In colder conditions a fine or universal grind structure is usually sufficient, maybe aided with a little horsehair brushing, unless a strong sun is heating the surface and a little more channeling structure is needed. Some structure tools work before the waxing and some after. The Toko Structurite is a very simple rolling tool that is used after final scraping and brushing. You put in the appropriate roller (patterns: medium, coarse, etc.), clamp the unit's plastic edges over the side of the ski and push it down the length (split shifts for classic). Real simple and quick. I usually run it twice and finish with a quick polishing brush or wipe. rm |
#5
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fluoro powder need input
On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 13:33:09 -0700 (PDT), wintermutt
wrote: On Mar 10, 9:02*am, 32 Degrees B wrote: Sounds about right to me wintermutt. If its really warm conditions with wet snow or water I'd add some big structure with my Toko "press in" structure tool too... JKal. It is amazing how much speed the fluoros give you in these conditions. On Mar 9, 2:10*am, wintermutt wrote: i finally got a wax-fluoro combination to work well (by well i mean i was significantly faster than some of my competitors coasting downhill). this is what i did i am asking for input. i ironed on a high fluoro content wax let it cool then scraped the wax off. no brushing yet. then i sprinkled on some fluoro powder (the really small particle kind). then i ironed that on. then i scraped it again, brushed with copper then nylon then horsehair. the reason i did this was i thought my bases would stand a better chance of not getting heat damage if there was more wax on the bases when i ironed on the fluoro powder. i did not expect to get the speed but this is the fastest technique in my hands so far. anyone else do it this way? any ideas on why this is a good or bad technique? thank you.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - where do i learn how do use a structure tool? does it really help that much.?? In warm, wet snow conditions, yes. I can't say if it's worth it to you, but the Toko Sturcturite tool is helpful and easy to use - you just roll it over a ski base that's at room temp or a little warmer, pushing hard enough that it leaves a pattern on the base. |
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