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Outdoor Glide Waxing



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 2nd 09, 11:56 PM posted to rec.skiing.nordic
[email protected]
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Posts: 28
Default Outdoor Glide Waxing

The only waxing setup I have in my current home is outside in a
screened in porch. I just scraped of LF7 and it sort of peeled off,
with sections turning white (air bubbles?) before coming off in
chunks.

An article said that this is a sign of not using a hot enough iron
when it happens with cold waxes. I'm wondering if it's an indication
that the wax isn't bonding with the base because it cools down too
quickly.

Would appreciate any suggestions on how to make the situation work (I
try keeping the ski inside until last second, but I let it cool
outside, as it seemed too messy to bring it in with unscraped wax)...

Jon
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  #2  
Old March 3rd 09, 01:18 AM posted to rec.skiing.nordic
John Forrest Tomlinson
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Posts: 447
Default Outdoor Glide Waxing

On Mon, 2 Mar 2009 15:56:30 -0800 (PST), wrote:

The only waxing setup I have in my current home is outside in a
screened in porch. I just scraped of LF7 and it sort of peeled off,
with sections turning white (air bubbles?) before coming off in
chunks.

An article said that this is a sign of not using a hot enough iron
when it happens with cold waxes. I'm wondering if it's an indication
that the wax isn't bonding with the base because it cools down too
quickly.

Would appreciate any suggestions on how to make the situation work (I
try keeping the ski inside until last second, but I let it cool
outside, as it seemed too messy to bring it in with unscraped wax)...


Maybe a portable space heater? Also, a ski with unscraped wax isn't
that messy -- it's the dripping scraping and brushing that creates
mess. I think you should try bringing the skis in to cool.

Also, if your problem is not having space that you're will to "mess
up" waxing, it's possible to wax in a nice space and keep it clean. I
wax indoors on a new bamboo floor that my wife loves. I have to put
down a thick blue plastic tarp and do a lot of cleaning afterwards
(setup and breakdown/cleanup are probably 20 minutes). I often wipe
most of the wax off with fiberlene (or scrape lightly with a dull
scraper) before the wax cools, then scrape the wax normally when it
does cool. This results in a lot less wax to scrape and fly around.

Also, the tarp always goes with the same side down, so only one side
gets any wax residue on it and the clean side is what touches the
floor.

The whole process is tedious but doable.
  #3  
Old March 3rd 09, 01:35 AM posted to rec.skiing.nordic
Jon[_2_]
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Posts: 12
Default Outdoor Glide Waxing

Maybe a portable space heater?

That's a good idea--I noticed the (new, improved) Craftsbury waxing
hut is unheated, but has a space heater above each station--could be a
good way to try to keep the ski at room temps until it's time to bring
it inside...
  #4  
Old March 3rd 09, 01:40 AM posted to rec.skiing.nordic
[email protected]
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Posts: 75
Default Outdoor Glide Waxing

On Mar 2, 5:18*pm, John Forrest Tomlinson
wrote:
On Mon, 2 Mar 2009 15:56:30 -0800 (PST), wrote:
The only waxing setup I have in my current home is outside in a
screened in porch. *I just scraped of LF7 and it sort of peeled off,
with sections turning white (air bubbles?) before coming off in
chunks.


An article said that this is a sign of not using a hot enough iron
when it happens with cold waxes. * I'm wondering if it's an indication
that the wax isn't bonding with the base because it cools down too
quickly.


Would appreciate any suggestions on how to make the situation work (I
try keeping the ski inside until last second, but I let it cool
outside, as it seemed too messy to bring it in with unscraped wax)...


Maybe a portable space heater? Also, a ski with unscraped wax isn't
that messy -- it's the dripping scraping and brushing that creates
mess. I think you should try bringing the skis in to cool.

Also, if your problem is not having space that you're will to "mess
up" waxing, it's possible to wax in a nice space and keep it clean. I
wax indoors on a new bamboo floor that my wife loves. *I have to put
down a thick blue plastic tarp and do a lot of cleaning afterwards
(setup and breakdown/cleanup are probably 20 minutes). I often wipe
most of the wax off with fiberlene (or scrape lightly with a dull
scraper) before the wax cools, then scrape the wax normally when it
does cool. *This results in a lot less wax to scrape and fly around. *

Also, the tarp always goes with the same side down, so only one side
gets any wax residue on it and the clean side is what touches the
floor.

The whole process is tedious but doable.


I would also worry about the fluoro dust generated by the brushing and
the fluoro fumes which are not good for the air your wife and you
breathe. A garage sounds like an appropriate place.

I wax/scrape/brush in designated places at the skiing destination -
just easier this way. Of course, this assumes that the place you ski
at has a waxing room.
  #6  
Old March 3rd 09, 03:03 AM posted to rec.skiing.nordic
[email protected]
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Posts: 75
Default Outdoor Glide Waxing

On Mar 2, 6:07*pm, John Forrest Tomlinson
wrote:
On Mon, 2 Mar 2009 17:40:22 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

I would also worry about the fluoro dust generated by the brushing and
the fluoro fumes which are not good for the air your wife and you
breathe. A garage sounds like an appropriate place.


I don't think we have a dust problem the way I do it, though the fumes
issue is interesting. *

I don't wax flouros hot (I use a cool iron and then rotocorking) and
there's *a smoke detector above my "wax area" which never goes off
while waxing anything -- I have a good digital iron and clean the iron
whenever I change what wax I'm applying so nothing smokes.

But are there fumes from normal temperature waxing (no smoke) that
cause problems?

The space is a hall with moderate indoor airflow.


I would google smth like fluoro wax smoke safety, and would try to
look at scientific studies/measurements rather than anecdotal stories.
There is a phenomenon called "polymer fever" where the fumes from
fluoro polymers causes inflammation in the lungs. Particles from wax
generated by brushing must be very heavy (dozens of microns) and
probably don't travel too high up to trigger the smoke alarm, but
still are high enough for you to breathe (most of them probably settle
in the throat).

"moderate indoor airflow" is not a quantitative statement. I bet if
you ask Swix/Toko they have recommendations for their wax rooms - for
people who wax dozens of pairs of skis a day.
  #7  
Old March 3rd 09, 04:50 AM posted to rec.skiing.nordic
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Posts: 572
Default Outdoor Glide Waxing

See the latest newsletter at http://www.ultratune.net/

Per an earlier thread, I've been waxing this winter in my garage,
where the temp is anywhere from high 30s when it's very cold outside,
to the mid to upper 40s (most of the time). There are three issues:
heating the work bench, where the skis cool and iron temperature. I
use a Patton Tower dual quartz heater (Home Depot), which I usually
start a bit in advance. To cool the skis, I take them upstairs where
it's warm, and only bring them down when it's time to scrape. That
reduces chipping. With the iron, I make sure the temp is appropriate to
the wax. Too cool of an iron also leads to chipping, especially with
colder waxes (blue on down).

Gene

wrote:

On Mar 2, 6:07*pm, John Forrest Tomlinson
wrote:
On Mon, 2 Mar 2009 17:40:22 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

I would also worry about the fluoro dust generated by the brushing and
the fluoro fumes which are not good for the air your wife and you
breathe. A garage sounds like an appropriate place.


I don't think we have a dust problem the way I do it, though the fumes
issue is interesting. *

I don't wax flouros hot (I use a cool iron and then rotocorking) and
there's *a smoke detector above my "wax area" which never goes off
while waxing anything -- I have a good digital iron and clean the iron
whenever I change what wax I'm applying so nothing smokes.

But are there fumes from normal temperature waxing (no smoke) that
cause problems?

The space is a hall with moderate indoor airflow.


I would google smth like fluoro wax smoke safety, and would try to
look at scientific studies/measurements rather than anecdotal stories.
There is a phenomenon called "polymer fever" where the fumes from
fluoro polymers causes inflammation in the lungs. Particles from wax
generated by brushing must be very heavy (dozens of microns) and
probably don't travel too high up to trigger the smoke alarm, but
still are high enough for you to breathe (most of them probably settle
in the throat).

"moderate indoor airflow" is not a quantitative statement. I bet if
you ask Swix/Toko they have recommendations for their wax rooms - for
people who wax dozens of pairs of skis a day.

  #9  
Old March 3rd 09, 10:10 AM posted to rec.skiing.nordic
John Forrest Tomlinson
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 447
Default Outdoor Glide Waxing

On Mon, 2 Mar 2009 19:03:42 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

I would google smth like fluoro wax smoke safety, and would try to
look at scientific studies/measurements rather than anecdotal stories.
There is a phenomenon called "polymer fever" where the fumes from
fluoro polymers causes inflammation in the lungs. Particles from wax
generated by brushing must be very heavy (dozens of microns) and
probably don't travel too high up to trigger the smoke alarm, but
still are high enough for you to breathe (most of them probably settle
in the throat).

"moderate indoor airflow" is not a quantitative statement. I bet if
you ask Swix/Toko they have recommendations for their wax rooms - for
people who wax dozens of pairs of skis a day.


Thanks -- I looked that up and the first result is your post! Google
is getting scary.

But looked at some others and I'll run our big kitchen fan which is on
one side of the "wax room" and vents to the outside to deal with
fumes. It's loud, which is annoying.

I really don't believe dust is an issue -- I would see dust on the
wall next to the skis and there isn't much at all. The dust is on the
skis and I wipe it off with a paper towel after each ski is done.


  #10  
Old March 3rd 09, 05:53 PM posted to rec.skiing.nordic
Bob
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Posts: 73
Default Outdoor Glide Waxing

wrote:
The only waxing setup I have in my current home is outside in a
screened in porch.


What's the actual temperature out there?

I just scraped of LF7 and it sort of peeled off,
with sections turning white (air bubbles?) before coming off in
chunks.


An article said that this is a sign of not using a hot enough iron
when it happens with cold waxes.


I don't think of LF7 as a cold wax (though, it's pretty much the coldest
wax I ever put on, here in the Sierra), but if you try to scape it when
the ski is cold, it'll chip off.

I'm wondering if it's an indication
that the wax isn't bonding with the base because it cools down too
quickly.


Yes, the wax is probably not staying in the base. I don't think it's the
speed of cooling so much as the ski is too cold. It's OK to scrape when
the ski is still barely warm to the touch (say, 80F). If you wait for
the ski to get down to 40 or 50F, the wax will chip out instead of
scrape off.

Would appreciate any suggestions on how to make the situation work (I
try keeping the ski inside until last second, but I let it cool
outside, as it seemed too messy to bring it in with unscraped wax)...

Jon


When I wax at Auburn Ski Club (the coldest wax room in Tahoe ;-), I iron
both skis and immediately scrape the first ski, then the second. Then,
by the time I brush each ski, they're pretty cold.

Bob
 




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