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angulation



 
 
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  #1  
Old March 9th 10, 03:56 PM posted to rec.skiing.snowboard
Mike M. Miskulin
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Posts: 71
Default angulation

probably not of much interest to the park rats but any
tips on heel-side angulation? I feel I've made some
really good progress the past few years, especially on
toe edge but now worry that heel side is not keeping
pace. I realize that in soft boots on an all mtn
board theres a limit to what one can expect but I
don't think I'm there by any means.

mike
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  #2  
Old March 10th 10, 02:52 AM posted to rec.skiing.snowboard
Bob F
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Posts: 1,296
Default angulation

Mike M. Miskulin wrote:
probably not of much interest to the park rats but any
tips on heel-side angulation? I feel I've made some
really good progress the past few years, especially on
toe edge but now worry that heel side is not keeping
pace. I realize that in soft boots on an all mtn
board theres a limit to what one can expect but I
don't think I'm there by any means.


Increase the forward lean of your binding to so that you can still bend your
knees some while on the heel edge. This will give you more edgeing on your
heels, with your knees working to absorb bumps. Then make sure you arch your
back (backwards) while on your toes to get good edgeing there.

I actually added wedges under the bindings to give me a little more forward
lean. I now at time have to push down my toes while on heels edge to keep from
over edgeing.


  #3  
Old March 10th 10, 02:58 AM posted to rec.skiing.snowboard
Bob F
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,296
Default angulation

Bob F wrote:
Mike M. Miskulin wrote:
probably not of much interest to the park rats but any
tips on heel-side angulation? I feel I've made some
really good progress the past few years, especially on
toe edge but now worry that heel side is not keeping
pace. I realize that in soft boots on an all mtn
board theres a limit to what one can expect but I
don't think I'm there by any means.


Increase the forward lean of your binding to so that you can still
bend your knees some while on the heel edge. This will give you more
edgeing on your heels, with your knees working to absorb bumps. Then
make sure you arch your back (backwards) while on your toes to get
good edgeing there.
I actually added wedges under the bindings to give me a little more
forward lean. I now at time have to push down my toes while on heels
edge to keep from over edgeing.


I could also add that moving your weight slightly toward the rear of the board
partway through the turn will help keep the tail of the board from breaking
loose and skidding. Lifting your rear toe can also help this. Experiment, and
see what helps you most.



  #4  
Old March 10th 10, 08:36 PM posted to rec.skiing.snowboard
Mike M. Miskulin
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 71
Default angulation

"Bob F" wrote in
:

Bob F wrote:



Increase the forward lean of your binding to so that you can still


pretty much as far forward as is possible. I could go a tiny bit
further but it gets uncomfortable.


I could also add that moving your weight slightly toward the rear of the
board partway through the turn will help keep the tail of the board from
breaking loose and skidding. Lifting your rear toe can also help this.
Experiment, and see what helps you most.


I do try to shift weight back a little bit but that seems to only have
an effect on steeper runs. I've not tried the toe thing.

Perhaps I should elaborate a little bit. While I'd certainly like to
have more heel side angulation while on the steep stuff, I find it
is more of a problem (lack) on the less steep, even though I might be
crusing at a fairly good clip. It just seems like I go from a
decent edge on the toe side to not much at all on heel unless like I
said I'm on steeper (not necessarily faster) stuff.
  #5  
Old March 10th 10, 09:48 PM posted to rec.skiing.snowboard
Bob F
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,296
Default angulation

Mike M. Miskulin wrote:
"Bob F" wrote in
:

Bob F wrote:



Increase the forward lean of your binding to so that you can still


pretty much as far forward as is possible. I could go a tiny bit
further but it gets uncomfortable.


I could also add that moving your weight slightly toward the rear of
the board partway through the turn will help keep the tail of the
board from breaking loose and skidding. Lifting your rear toe can
also help this. Experiment, and see what helps you most.


I do try to shift weight back a little bit but that seems to only have
an effect on steeper runs. I've not tried the toe thing.

Perhaps I should elaborate a little bit. While I'd certainly like to
have more heel side angulation while on the steep stuff, I find it
is more of a problem (lack) on the less steep, even though I might be
crusing at a fairly good clip. It just seems like I go from a
decent edge on the toe side to not much at all on heel unless like I
said I'm on steeper (not necessarily faster) stuff.


It still isn't completely clear what the problem is. Are you trying to carve and
slipping? Just not getting high enough on the edge for the turn you want?
Skidding out on the tail?

As I've said here before, I added wedges under my bindings to give me more
forward lean, allowing me to ride with my knees more bent. This allows me to get
lower on heel turns. That could help.

You could be having problems with body rotation over the board. Many riders
swing their arms or body to start the turn, which puts the body into a bad
position to continue the turn. Trying to keep your body aligned with your feet,
turning at all times with the board, not ahead of it might make a difference.
Steer the board with your feet, not by rotating your body to get it turning. If
you find your front arm crossing the heel edges of the board at any time in the
turn, it could be a sign of that problem. How do you initiate turns? What do you
do with your feet to get the board to turn?


 




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