got a video to discuss

"Dmitry" null@null wrote

To me it looks like the "meat" of the turn, while quite short,
is not sideslipping. In the initiation phase id does look like
the "attack angle" of the board is too high and is not really
in line with the vector of the actual travel. But it's just because
I'm shoosing that angle knowing that I'll load up the board,
it will gain some positive camber and hook up.

Do I need to be more forward and much more patiend
at the turn initiation?

Argh! Severe case of typing disorder, sorry! I promise
I won't be typing laying upside down on my couch any more

On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 04:06:03 GMT, "Dmitry" null@null allegedly wrote:


"Switters" wrote

Okay I finally figured out how to compress a video to get the size
down to something reasonable. Mainly my goal is to solicit comments
about technique and learn something, I'm sure there are guys here
that ride way better than I do. Here's the video (~4MB):

I'd recommend converting to WMV, which will give you much smaller
file for the same amount of video etc.

WMV offers much better compression, but I doubt everyone
will have the right codec installed. I'll just do both WMV and
an AVI with some basic mpeg codec next time.

I tend to point people at VLC (http://www.videolan.org/), a free multi-
platform, multi-format media player. It's pretty good.

As a comparison, you had 4MB for 10 seconds, my recent one was just over
3MB for 2 minutes. Although the resolution was a lot smaller.

- Dave.

--
The only powder to get high on, falls from the sky.
http://www.vpas.org/ - Snowboarding the worlds pow pow -
Securing your e-mail

The Snowboard FAQ lives here - http://rssFAQ.org/

Dmitry wrote:
Okay I finally figured out how to compress a video to get the size down to
something reasonable. Mainly my goal is to solicit comments about
technique and learn something, I'm sure there are guys here that ride
way better than I do. Here's the video (~4MB):
http://s87087197.onlinehome.us/canyon.avi



First off, this is from a dead rookie who listens to some of the best on
the hill.....

Cool!

Aggressive and pushing hard, knees bent.
Feel tired? :-)

Next step, ride with a Red Bull (or your favorite beverage) in your
front hand. That will force your body to be more stationary, riding more
upright.

After your comfortable doing this, ride down switch. This forces you
back to the basics, removing any 'comfort' bad habits.

After that, I bet you can perform at the same level, and not be worn out.

I actually watched a girl ripping up a slope while eating Ice Cream
Dots! Thats control!

Later,

Chris

Dmitry wrote:
"Neil Gendzwill" wrote


On the negative side - you're overworking the board a bit and trying to
force it around with too much steering, as a result the tail is skidding
and it's not really carving. If the intent is to make a bunch of quick
short turns, it's OK but if the intent is to show carving, not quite
there yet.

I note that Arvin pointed out the exact same problem as I did.

To me it looks like the "meat" of the turn, while quite short,
is not sideslipping. [snip]

In my book, if there's any skid, it ain't a carved turn. That's not
always bad, often you have to skid, but as I said before it's more to
what you're trying to achieve with those turns - if you are wanting to
force it to make shorter turns than it really can, then you're going to
have to skid it.

Do I need to be more forward and much more patiend
at the turn initiation?

Not sure about being more forward, but an ideal carved turn does start
with weight forward and then shifting back. If you want to make the
shortest possible turns while still carving, then you're going to have
to stop steering it so much and be a little more patient on edge
throughout. For me short radius turns work best when I initiate them
with a lot of knee bend, and then drive out of them by standing up close
to the apex of the turn. This works the board more and will make it
come around quicker without skidding. On the other hand, if you just
sink into the turn and stay compressed, you'll get a nice carve at
closer to the natural radius of the board.

I really like making short slalom-like turns and don't
care much for "euro-carving", so the idea was to do
just that - short very intense turns.

Depends on what you mean by euro-carving. If you mean laying on the
ground, that's one thing. If you mean just riding the edge without
doing a lot of work to bring the turn around quickly, that's another.

That I noticed too. Looks like I'm just instinctively trying
to keep my CG as low as possible for stability, should
start paying attention to torso position more.

All your lowering should be from flexing at hips and knees, and as much
as possible keep the torso upright - unless you want to lay it out, in
which case you should still have a little angulation.

I'm using symmetrical duckstance (+7/-7), so getting the back arm
up front will probably result in some [more] shoulder rotation. Is that Ok?

Well maybe not all the way upfront, but try keeping it more quiet. Try
the drills Arvin suggested - butler drill, or hands on thighs, or even
hands in pockets.

Why do you ride duck? Do you like to spin, or ride fakie a lot?

Neil

Dmitry wrote:
"lonerider" wrote

Right! That's one of the problems I was wondering about - I'm
always "jumping on" the board to coax it into a tighter turn to put
more weight and bend it, and you're saying be patiend and it'll
bend itself from lateral acceleration. I will definitely follow this
advice and try that.

Yes exactly, get the board angled up higher earlier in the turn first.
This will engage the edge (you should feel it hook up and start
carving) and the board will feel like it is coming in front and around
in front of you (at least that's how it is for me). Let the sidecut do
it's thing, you should find that when it is higher up on edge and
carving you weight will naturally flex it due to the lateral (angular)
acceleration. If you want to turn tighter, get the board higher on edge
and the board will flex more... of course it the board is too stiff for
you, this will be difficult.

I do have a good feel for what you're talking about, but usually
I simply forget about it when the wind starts singing in my ears
Video is such a great learning tool!

Heh, except my form always goes to crap when I know there's a camera on
me.

Well, again, the reason I'm doing that is to collect enough energy in
my upper body to be able to bend the board in a turn. Not enough
body
weight (and obviously skill) to make that board do a tighter turn.

Everyone goes through the same thing of not harnessing and directing
their energy properly. Idea of using you upper body to drive into a
board to flex it more is not altogether incorrect, but you need to get
you lower body and body to be "ready to receive" these energy first.
Getting the board higher on edge is the basic key - think of it like
this - put a piece of paper flat on your desk, now try and bend it by
pushing down in the middle. You can't because the table is supporting
the paper from underneath. This is basically what happens when you try
to bend the board into a tighter arc when the base mostly flat and on
the snow - you are pushing against the *mountain* and the mountain will
win. Now when you tilt the board up on edge, you remove the "support"
from all but the edge of the board... now logically it should be much
easier to flex into a tighter arc, make sense?

--Arvin

Dmitry wrote:
"Chris J." wrote


Looks very surf/skate influenced. Very stylish except for the hand
waving -
try keeping them more down at your sides like a gunslinger. The up and
down
motion is maybe a bit overdone - I think this is called up unweighting and
it's a necessary skill but there's probably some wasted motion in there.
Make your legs do more of the work.


My guess is that I just have to do that because I'm too light to bend that
board. The suggested weight range is something like 150-195lbs, and
I'm only 145. This is somewhat a concious choice, I like that spring
motion.
But on the other hand, I have yet to find a big enough board that's at
the same time not very stiff and snappy. All I see is either dead noodles
or stiff springs.


I need to figure out how to post some video so you all can critique me...


This one's from Canon S1 IS _still_ camera. I was amazed at its
video abilities - can take 640x480 video at 30fps! Get VirtualDub
for editing, and then maybe encode it to WMA with MovieMaker.
Acually this is not a lot of work at all, takes 5 mins once you've
figured out the workflow.



You can encode straight to windows media video straight from VirtualDub
if you get the right codec. Its quite a bit more efficient and allows
for multiple passes to get better quality. I use VirtualDub for almost
all my editing.

Rick

Rick Wilson wrote in news:77%5e.43$fk7.1867
@news.uswest.net:

You can encode straight to windows media video straight from VirtualDub
if you get the right codec. Its quite a bit more efficient and allows
for multiple passes to get better quality. I use VirtualDub for almost
all my editing.


If you want to get a little fancier with the editing and can spare the coin,
Edius 2.5 is a good NLE program. The list is 599 though I found it for around
225 last spring. It comes with Procoder Express which can output in quite a
few formats.

"Dmitry" null@null wrote:

Okay I finally figured out how to compress a video to get the size down to
something reasonable. Mainly my goal is to solicit comments about
technique and learn something, I'm sure there are guys here that ride
way better than I do. Here's the video (~4MB):
http://s87087197.onlinehome.us/canyon.avi

Holy crap! Is that you? You're damn good

Iain

"Iain Hendry" wrote

Okay I finally figured out how to compress a video to get the size down
to
something reasonable. Mainly my goal is to solicit comments about
technique and learn something, I'm sure there are guys here that ride
way better than I do. Here's the video (~4MB):
http://s87087197.onlinehome.us/canyon.avi

Holy crap! Is that you? You're damn good

You comment is not helpful! ))

Thanks

"Rick Wilson" wrote

This one's from Canon S1 IS _still_ camera. I was amazed at its
video abilities - can take 640x480 video at 30fps! Get VirtualDub
for editing, and then maybe encode it to WMA with MovieMaker.
Acually this is not a lot of work at all, takes 5 mins once you've
figured out the workflow.

You can encode straight to windows media video straight from VirtualDub if
you get the right codec. Its quite a bit more efficient and allows for
multiple passes to get better quality. I use VirtualDub for almost all my
editing.

But how about codec avaiability on different windows versions?
Say, will it play on a plain vanilla win2k system? I doubt that..