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Getting better grip with waxless skis, Part 2
Some of you have brought up some questions, I will answer them here.
I mainly ski on ungroomed bush areas. Odd time I am on a path that a skidoo made, and once or twice i go to groomed trails. The snow was 1 foot fresh powder. It seams I get better grip on the skidoo tracks. It was about -10C I stomp as hard as I can, but it wont work. Even doing the herringbone is nearly impossible. I have great glide, also, I use a thing from Swix that is for cleaning waxless skis. During the summer, they are stored upside down, on a flat place, in a shed. In the winter, they are by my outside door standing on their ends. I classic ski, and am decent. I look like I know what I am doing. Over the last 3 years, I have lost 20 lbs, went from 185 to 165lbs. Any ideas with this information? Thanks, Micheal |
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It might also be helpful to know what brand/model of ski you have, how
long the pattern is, how well it fits your weight using the normal paper test (not sure that works the same way with a pattern in the kick zone though). I must say though, that a waxless ski that has great glide and bad grip seems almost like an oxymoron. Just read your comment that "even doing the herringbone is nearly impossible". It's hard to imagine how a successful herringbone would have much to do with normal ski grip -- perhaps it is just a matter of technique. Jim |
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"Gene Goldenfeld" wrote in message ... This thread has gotten a little strange. You were in a foot of fresh powder and the problem was grip? What is the brand, model and size of these skis? What is your weight and height? I'd think the primary problem would be staying on top of the snow, i.e., float, not grip. I sank right to the bottom... kinda fun pushing snow with my calfs. I am 5'11", as I said, 165lbs. The skis are 200 cm Karhu Atiils. Float was a problem, but I can mannage that if i got grip. As for storage, a cool dry place with the skis standing and not attached is best. But first, clean them with a brush and hot wax, and then apply a layer of softer glide wax or prep wax to the tips and tails to prevent oxidation. Will do this this summer. Gene Mark wrote: wrote: Micheal Artindale writes: Micheal Some of you have brought up some questions, I will answer them here. Micheal I mainly ski on ungroomed bush areas. Odd time I am on a path that a skidoo Micheal made, and once or twice i go to groomed trails. Micheal The snow was 1 foot fresh powder. It seams I get better grip on the skidoo Micheal tracks. It was about -10C Micheal I stomp as hard as I can, but it wont work. Even doing the herringbone is Micheal nearly impossible. Micheal I have great glide, also, I use a thing from Swix that is for cleaning Micheal waxless skis. Micheal During the summer, they are stored upside down, on a flat place, in a shed. Micheal In the winter, they are by my outside door standing on their ends. Micheal I classic ski, and am decent. I look like I know what I am doing. Micheal Over the last 3 years, I have lost 20 lbs, went from 185 to 165lbs. This is probably it. If you have a flat surface, try the paper test. It is not the most accurate, but if when standing on one ski, you can easily pass paper under the ski, you need to start carrying a 20lb pack when you ski (or get new skis) Might be the shed storage thing too. Can anyone more knowledgable than me affirm that skis should be stored vertically in a cool place, extremities together and the middle unattached, out of direct sunlight. Anyway, I read that flat storage can mess up the camber, so the paper test IS the way to go as Andrew suggested. |
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