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#11
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"Dmitry" null@null wrote To me it looks like the "meat" of the turn, while quite short, is not sideslipping. In the initiation phase id does look like the "attack angle" of the board is too high and is not really in line with the vector of the actual travel. But it's just because I'm shoosing that angle knowing that I'll load up the board, it will gain some positive camber and hook up. Do I need to be more forward and much more patiend at the turn initiation? Argh! Severe case of typing disorder, sorry! I promise I won't be typing laying upside down on my couch any more |
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#12
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On Fri, 08 Apr 2005 04:06:03 GMT, "Dmitry" null@null allegedly wrote:
"Switters" wrote Okay I finally figured out how to compress a video to get the size down to something reasonable. Mainly my goal is to solicit comments about technique and learn something, I'm sure there are guys here that ride way better than I do. Here's the video (~4MB): I'd recommend converting to WMV, which will give you much smaller file for the same amount of video etc. WMV offers much better compression, but I doubt everyone will have the right codec installed. I'll just do both WMV and an AVI with some basic mpeg codec next time. I tend to point people at VLC (http://www.videolan.org/), a free multi- platform, multi-format media player. It's pretty good. As a comparison, you had 4MB for 10 seconds, my recent one was just over 3MB for 2 minutes. Although the resolution was a lot smaller. - Dave. -- The only powder to get high on, falls from the sky. http://www.vpas.org/ - Snowboarding the worlds pow pow - Securing your e-mail The Snowboard FAQ lives here - http://rssFAQ.org/ |
#13
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Dmitry wrote:
Okay I finally figured out how to compress a video to get the size down to something reasonable. Mainly my goal is to solicit comments about technique and learn something, I'm sure there are guys here that ride way better than I do. Here's the video (~4MB): http://s87087197.onlinehome.us/canyon.avi First off, this is from a dead rookie who listens to some of the best on the hill..... Cool! Aggressive and pushing hard, knees bent. Feel tired? :-) Next step, ride with a Red Bull (or your favorite beverage) in your front hand. That will force your body to be more stationary, riding more upright. After your comfortable doing this, ride down switch. This forces you back to the basics, removing any 'comfort' bad habits. After that, I bet you can perform at the same level, and not be worn out. I actually watched a girl ripping up a slope while eating Ice Cream Dots! Thats control! Later, Chris |
#14
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Dmitry wrote:
"Neil Gendzwill" wrote On the negative side - you're overworking the board a bit and trying to force it around with too much steering, as a result the tail is skidding and it's not really carving. If the intent is to make a bunch of quick short turns, it's OK but if the intent is to show carving, not quite there yet. I note that Arvin pointed out the exact same problem as I did. To me it looks like the "meat" of the turn, while quite short, is not sideslipping. [snip] In my book, if there's any skid, it ain't a carved turn. That's not always bad, often you have to skid, but as I said before it's more to what you're trying to achieve with those turns - if you are wanting to force it to make shorter turns than it really can, then you're going to have to skid it. Do I need to be more forward and much more patiend at the turn initiation? Not sure about being more forward, but an ideal carved turn does start with weight forward and then shifting back. If you want to make the shortest possible turns while still carving, then you're going to have to stop steering it so much and be a little more patient on edge throughout. For me short radius turns work best when I initiate them with a lot of knee bend, and then drive out of them by standing up close to the apex of the turn. This works the board more and will make it come around quicker without skidding. On the other hand, if you just sink into the turn and stay compressed, you'll get a nice carve at closer to the natural radius of the board. I really like making short slalom-like turns and don't care much for "euro-carving", so the idea was to do just that - short very intense turns. Depends on what you mean by euro-carving. If you mean laying on the ground, that's one thing. If you mean just riding the edge without doing a lot of work to bring the turn around quickly, that's another. That I noticed too. Looks like I'm just instinctively trying to keep my CG as low as possible for stability, should start paying attention to torso position more. All your lowering should be from flexing at hips and knees, and as much as possible keep the torso upright - unless you want to lay it out, in which case you should still have a little angulation. I'm using symmetrical duckstance (+7/-7), so getting the back arm up front will probably result in some [more] shoulder rotation. Is that Ok? Well maybe not all the way upfront, but try keeping it more quiet. Try the drills Arvin suggested - butler drill, or hands on thighs, or even hands in pockets. Why do you ride duck? Do you like to spin, or ride fakie a lot? Neil |
#15
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Dmitry wrote: "lonerider" wrote Right! That's one of the problems I was wondering about - I'm always "jumping on" the board to coax it into a tighter turn to put more weight and bend it, and you're saying be patiend and it'll bend itself from lateral acceleration. I will definitely follow this advice and try that. Yes exactly, get the board angled up higher earlier in the turn first. This will engage the edge (you should feel it hook up and start carving) and the board will feel like it is coming in front and around in front of you (at least that's how it is for me). Let the sidecut do it's thing, you should find that when it is higher up on edge and carving you weight will naturally flex it due to the lateral (angular) acceleration. If you want to turn tighter, get the board higher on edge and the board will flex more... of course it the board is too stiff for you, this will be difficult. I do have a good feel for what you're talking about, but usually I simply forget about it when the wind starts singing in my ears Video is such a great learning tool! Heh, except my form always goes to crap when I know there's a camera on me. Well, again, the reason I'm doing that is to collect enough energy in my upper body to be able to bend the board in a turn. Not enough body weight (and obviously skill) to make that board do a tighter turn. Everyone goes through the same thing of not harnessing and directing their energy properly. Idea of using you upper body to drive into a board to flex it more is not altogether incorrect, but you need to get you lower body and body to be "ready to receive" these energy first. Getting the board higher on edge is the basic key - think of it like this - put a piece of paper flat on your desk, now try and bend it by pushing down in the middle. You can't because the table is supporting the paper from underneath. This is basically what happens when you try to bend the board into a tighter arc when the base mostly flat and on the snow - you are pushing against the *mountain* and the mountain will win. Now when you tilt the board up on edge, you remove the "support" from all but the edge of the board... now logically it should be much easier to flex into a tighter arc, make sense? --Arvin |
#16
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Dmitry wrote:
"Chris J." wrote Looks very surf/skate influenced. Very stylish except for the hand waving - try keeping them more down at your sides like a gunslinger. The up and down motion is maybe a bit overdone - I think this is called up unweighting and it's a necessary skill but there's probably some wasted motion in there. Make your legs do more of the work. My guess is that I just have to do that because I'm too light to bend that board. The suggested weight range is something like 150-195lbs, and I'm only 145. This is somewhat a concious choice, I like that spring motion. But on the other hand, I have yet to find a big enough board that's at the same time not very stiff and snappy. All I see is either dead noodles or stiff springs. I need to figure out how to post some video so you all can critique me... This one's from Canon S1 IS _still_ camera. I was amazed at its video abilities - can take 640x480 video at 30fps! Get VirtualDub for editing, and then maybe encode it to WMA with MovieMaker. Acually this is not a lot of work at all, takes 5 mins once you've figured out the workflow. You can encode straight to windows media video straight from VirtualDub if you get the right codec. Its quite a bit more efficient and allows for multiple passes to get better quality. I use VirtualDub for almost all my editing. Rick |
#17
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Rick Wilson wrote in news:77%5e.43$fk7.1867
@news.uswest.net: You can encode straight to windows media video straight from VirtualDub if you get the right codec. Its quite a bit more efficient and allows for multiple passes to get better quality. I use VirtualDub for almost all my editing. If you want to get a little fancier with the editing and can spare the coin, Edius 2.5 is a good NLE program. The list is 599 though I found it for around 225 last spring. It comes with Procoder Express which can output in quite a few formats. |
#18
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"Dmitry" null@null wrote:
Okay I finally figured out how to compress a video to get the size down to something reasonable. Mainly my goal is to solicit comments about technique and learn something, I'm sure there are guys here that ride way better than I do. Here's the video (~4MB): http://s87087197.onlinehome.us/canyon.avi Holy crap! Is that you? You're damn good Iain |
#19
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"Iain Hendry" wrote Okay I finally figured out how to compress a video to get the size down to something reasonable. Mainly my goal is to solicit comments about technique and learn something, I'm sure there are guys here that ride way better than I do. Here's the video (~4MB): http://s87087197.onlinehome.us/canyon.avi Holy crap! Is that you? You're damn good You comment is not helpful! )) Thanks |
#20
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"Rick Wilson" wrote This one's from Canon S1 IS _still_ camera. I was amazed at its video abilities - can take 640x480 video at 30fps! Get VirtualDub for editing, and then maybe encode it to WMA with MovieMaker. Acually this is not a lot of work at all, takes 5 mins once you've figured out the workflow. You can encode straight to windows media video straight from VirtualDub if you get the right codec. Its quite a bit more efficient and allows for multiple passes to get better quality. I use VirtualDub for almost all my editing. But how about codec avaiability on different windows versions? Say, will it play on a plain vanilla win2k system? I doubt that.. |
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