wax iron question

I no longer want to use a clothes iron for waxing. (Yes, I made a
costly mistake.)
I'm considering the following irons and would like feedback on any of
them, please.

-Holmenkol World Cup Iron
-Swix Pro Iron
-Swix World Cup Iron
-Toko Cat Iron

Hopefully I'll get an iron that will last for years and do a great job
with the full range of waxes. I like the feature that at least 1 of
the above irons has a double base plate but that feature may not be
significant. One iron has 2 power levels-600 & 1200 watts but is that
really necessary. I have big hands so I don't want an iron where my
paw will easily hit/change the temp setting dial.

I welcome your thoughts and comments.
Thanks,
Greg

"Greg" wrote in message
om...
I no longer want to use a clothes iron for waxing. (Yes, I made a
costly mistake.)
I'm considering the following irons and would like feedback on any of
them, please.

-Holmenkol World Cup Iron
-Swix Pro Iron
-Swix World Cup Iron
-Toko Cat Iron

Hopefully I'll get an iron that will last for years and do a great job
with the full range of waxes. I like the feature that at least 1 of
the above irons has a double base plate but that feature may not be
significant. One iron has 2 power levels-600 & 1200 watts but is that
really necessary. I have big hands so I don't want an iron where my
paw will easily hit/change the temp setting dial.


In my humble opinion? You won't be going wrong even if you're a cheapskate.
ANY "real" waxing iron is so much better than a clothes iron that you are
making an adequate change just by buying whatever waxing iron you choose,
even if its the cheapest one. Differences between that one and the "best"
money can buy is very minor compared to that first step of going with a real
waxing iron. Some of the more expensive features are really oriented
towards shops that are waxing skis all day every day and won't make a
difference if you're doing a couple of pair a couple times a week. Just
mho, of course.

The only iron I'm specifically familiar with is the Holmenkol. Nice
features: very comfortable to use - cork handle, etc. Actual temperature
marks on adjustment knob (as opposed to simple gradients). this allows you
to set the iron temp. according to the guidelines on the wax packet rather
than guess based on how the wax melts, doesn't smoke, etc. On the other
hand, when I'm doing real hard waxes (like Start Green or Swix CH4 or cold
powder), I usually try to set the iron cooler than recommended and use the
old method of just setting it "hot enough to melt" - which you can do with
any type of adjustment knob. But I do tend to look at those temp marks
especially when I'm using a wax I'm unfamiliar with or as a starting point
routinely.

Cons: on my Holmenkol, the temperature knob doesn't have "detents" or
whatever its called when the knob clicks into position and resists
accidental movement. This knob is smooth operating and could accidently
move. Hasn't been a real problem, but I think is a design flaw. My iron is
at least 7 years old, I don't know if they've changed that aspect. I've
used it a lot for several years and it's obvious to me that it's a well
made, quality, lifetime piece of equipment.

Other than that, in the Swix line, what I've seen in the shops, you get more
and/or better features the more you pay. At a certain price, you get a
thicker base plate, which is probably worth paying for (but not absolutely
essential - see my editorial comment above). After that, some of the
features you may or may not want to pay for -e.g. digital read out, etc. I
imagine the same is true among various Toko options.

If you pick a price point (say $50, $200, whatever), the quality differences
or irons at that price, as it relates to properly and safely applying wax, I
think will be negligable. Within your budget, I'd go with the one that
just seems to feel the best when you handle it.


Cam

I have an analogue SWIX iron. SWIX web site is confusing, but it's the
one with a THICK plate (about $100). There's also one with a thin plate
(about $50) - DON'T TAKE it - it's not much better than your cloth
iron, except that it does not have holes.

I've had the thing for ~4 years, it's been dropped numerous times, and
been kicked and thrown by airlines.

One more thing - get an extra long heavy-duty extension cord, and keep
it with the iron - many wax rooms have circuits in rediculous places.



Greg wrote:
I no longer want to use a clothes iron for waxing. (Yes, I made a
costly mistake.)
I'm considering the following irons and would like feedback on any of
them, please.

-Holmenkol World Cup Iron
-Swix Pro Iron
-Swix World Cup Iron
-Toko Cat Iron

Hopefully I'll get an iron that will last for years and do a great
job
with the full range of waxes. I like the feature that at least 1 of
the above irons has a double base plate but that feature may not be
significant. One iron has 2 power levels-600 & 1200 watts but is that
really necessary. I have big hands so I don't want an iron where my
paw will easily hit/change the temp setting dial.

I welcome your thoughts and comments.
Thanks,
Greg

On 4 Feb 2005 06:16:37 -0800, (Greg) wrote:

I no longer want to use a clothes iron for waxing. (Yes, I made a
costly mistake.)
I'm considering the following irons and would like feedback on any of
them, please.

-Holmenkol World Cup Iron
-Swix Pro Iron
-Swix World Cup Iron
-Toko Cat Iron


I don't own one, but I am attracted to the Toko iron because of the
clip that let's you easily hold base paper under the iron. I
sometimes do this with my current iron, just holding the paper, but
it's awkward. THe paper helps soak up some wax making scraping easier
and less messy.

JFT

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On 4 Feb 2005 06:16:37 -0800, (Greg) wrote:

I no longer want to use a clothes iron for waxing. (Yes, I made a
costly mistake.)
I'm considering the following irons and would like feedback on any of
them, please.

-Holmenkol World Cup Iron
-Swix Pro Iron
-Swix World Cup Iron
-Toko Cat Iron


I have been using the Holmenkol Racing waxer for 2 winters now. What I don't
like about it is the temperature dial which, althought acccurate, tends to
rotate by itself (!!!), so you constantly have to keep an eye on the heat
setting...

Besides, this tech page puzzles me :
http://www.holmenkol.us/tech.html?st...h+Info&ref=199
I mean, why should I modify my iron? Because these guys couldn't get it
right in the 1st place?

BarryT
P.S. Snow has been melting and all but disappeared while I've been away from
ski country. I just got back and it started snowing again. May the snow gods
follow me everywhere I go!

"BarryT" wrote

I have been using the Holmenkol Racing waxer for 2 winters now. What I
don't
like about it is the temperature dial which, althought acccurate, tends to
rotate by itself (!!!), so you constantly have to keep an eye on the heat
setting...

Besides, this tech page puzzles me :

http://www.holmenkol.us/tech.html?st...h+Info&ref=199
I mean, why should I modify my iron? Because these guys couldn't get it
right in the 1st place?

BarryT
Ditto to what Barry said - the dial could be improved, but the rest of the
iron is top notch.

On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 14:33:45 -0500, "BarryT"
wrote:

Besides, this tech page puzzles me :
http://www.holmenkol.us/tech.html?st...h+Info&ref=199

Wow.

JFT

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Visit http://www.jt10000.com
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"BarryT" wrote in message
...
On 4 Feb 2005 06:16:37 -0800, (Greg) wrote:

I no longer want to use a clothes iron for waxing. (Yes, I made a
costly mistake.)
I'm considering the following irons and would like feedback on any of
them, please.

-Holmenkol World Cup Iron
-Swix Pro Iron
-Swix World Cup Iron
-Toko Cat Iron


I have been using the Holmenkol Racing waxer for 2 winters now. What I
don't
like about it is the temperature dial which, althought acccurate, tends to
rotate by itself (!!!), so you constantly have to keep an eye on the heat
setting...

Besides, this tech page puzzles me :

http://www.holmenkol.us/tech.html?st...h+Info&ref=199
I mean, why should I modify my iron? Because these guys couldn't get it
right in the 1st place?

BarryT

Besides needing more wax to get the same amount on the ski, (good for the
wax company...), what is the point of the dimples? "achieve even better wax
film thickness during waxing as well as more stable heat management of the
base" Huh?

So the iron is harder to clean, uses more wax to do the same job, has
marginally higher contact pressure on the ski (for the same force due to
gravity and my hand) and has ever so slightly less mass that helps stabilize
the temperature. But it looks cool. You definitely want to do it on a mill
for the ultimate cosmetic value ;-

Bob