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#1
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prettiest view in the world?
Last Monday I ran into the most spectacular view I ever saw from a groomed
cross country ski trail -- in France near Grenoble. I was skating on a trail I didn't even know existed when I started out that morning, and it's not on any ski trail map I've seen. What are some other spectacular cross country ski views in the world? I drove down to Grenoble, then west up into the Vercors plateau to Autrans, site of the 1964 Winter Olympics XC ski courses. My goal was to take on the challenge of skating up the long climb there, from Autrans up to Geve. When I got to the base ski center, I was lucky to find there was still snow holding on this late in the season -- but the main "foyer de ski" building was locked. I looked inside and saw a note that all the trails were open up at Geve, so I drove to there. But the buildings were closed there too, so there was no place for me to purchase a "badge" for skiing or get a trail map. But the trails were beautifully groomed, so I just started skating, and soon found a map sign at one of the intersections. It showed a connector trail going off to La Sure, which I never heard of, but it looked like it might make a nice out-and-back warmup before taking on my challenge. Turned out there was already a good climb on this connector, and then some down -- and I found that La Sure was a lift-served alpine downhill ski area -- with trails beautifully groomed from the weekend. Nobody was skiing on the wide trail, so instead of heading back to Geve and Autrans, I thought I'd try skating up the alpine downhill trail -- which soon led to playing with Peter Hoffman's "switchback" idea. I skated up all the way to the top of two lifts (taking some rest stops). Up there I found there was also a cross country trail that came to the same place, also beautifully groomed, so I started skating north on it, and soon it made a downhill turn, where I stepped five meters off the trail to the top of a sheer cliff -- with a giant view northwest out over the river valleys and plains of France. (but that's not the view I'm talking about). Further down this trail I found a turn-off that would take be back to Geve -- but I thought that before my planned challenge, I would test myself climbing back up this _narrow_ trail, which took me back to the top of the lifts. But next I noticed that the skating trail continued on behind the lift and further south -- to who knows where? It was a perfect sunny day, so I started skating. (I did have a hiking topo map of the Vercors plateau, but it didn't show which routes were ski trails.) After a few km, I reached a little side-loop with a wonderful viewpoint over the interior of the Vercors. I liked this better than the views I've found in most North American XC ski areas, because I could see villages and farms, not just lots of trees and snow. (but that's not the view I'm talking about). The beautiful grooming continued, so I kept skating generally south, with occasional signs for "Moliere". Then there it was -- a view across the whole French Alps, north to Mont Blanc, east to the Ecrins group and further south, with the great mountain groups in between, the Chartreuse and the Belledonne chain prominent, also major peaks in the Beaufortain and Lauziere and Vanoise ranges. At this "Moliere" viewpoint there's a "table of observation" there that shows the names of the major peaks. I've never seen a view from a groomed cross country ski trail that comes close to that spectacular. But I'll be glad for suggestions -- and more excuses to travel. Then I kept skiing down a hill to a refuge hut (that might be serving food on weekends), and finally reached the end of the grooming. But there was still another trail heading back north but lower. And though it wasn't up on the ridge, it had pretty rocks right alongside it. Then a steep climb up to that same Vercors interior viewpoint, and from there I backtracked on the high ridge trail to the top of the Sure lifts. Down the narrow cross-country trail, with another visit to the cliff-top view. Then I found there was also a "high" connector trail between Sure and Geve, which traversed around the upper rim of the northern Vercors -- another pretty route where I could then look back across to where I'd been. And back to Geve. What a great day of spring-time skiing. France may not have the quantity of trails in Norway. But it's got enough special quality places. In addition to Geve - Sure - Moliere, there's the fun trails of La Feclaz, and the gentle but big-mountain-surrounded valley of Bessans. the wine, the food, the sunshine. The 1992 Olympic courses of Les Saisies with some spectacular peaks close by, and the Jura with its famous long route and race. Did I mention the sunshine, the food, and the wine? Now that I've made the obligatory pilgrimage to Norway, France is the place I'm going back to. Ken P.S. Actually my skiing for the day wasn't over. From Geve I skied all the way down to Autrans, and along the way took the challenge of the two steep climbs of the "Variante de Coupe du Monde" trail. Even though that note at Autrans said something about closed trails, the snow down low was beautifully groomed. So finally I was able to try my originally planned challenge: the long climb from Autrans to Geve. And except to take my skis off to cross one paved road, I actually skated the whole way up without stopping to rest. Hope I get to try it again sometime. |
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#2
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prettiest view in the world?
Sometimes my yard is pretty darn fine. : ) No vista but plenty of beauty just
the same. (See pics at OYB website.) I've been contemplating the Quintessential Michigan View and have a notion of what it is: a quarter-mile vista with a gentle hill and a swampy swale with cattails in it. There's a little creek running through the swamp, expanding into a little pond at the edge of the scene. On the side of the hill we have small cedars in a field. The trees we see are a mix of poplars, pines, fir, oak and maple. Put all these things together and you have THE Michigan View, to me. And it's as good as any out there. (Although, I do long to see other views as well again someday.) I would be happy to see some photos or artwork of this View. I'm thinking to make some myself, so I'm starting to bring the digicam out with me more often, looking to capture that View. -- Jeff Potter **** *Out Your Backdoor * http://www.outyourbackdoor.com publisher of do-it-yourself culture ... bikes, skis, boats & more! ... ... with radically relevant novels from the ULA & LiteraryRevolution.com! ... ... free music! ... tons o' articles! ... travel forums! ... WOW! 800-763-6923 |
#3
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prettiest view in the world?
PS: Note that my View is perfect at any time of year. However, it's worth
nothing that it's particularly nice during seasons which are often considered not so pretty, like when the snow is melting and there is considerable grass field exposed. A mix of spring snow and grassy hillside is very nice in my View. The browns add to the charm. And you can still see for a long way into the woods thanks to the low, crusty snow cover. -- Jeff Potter **** *Out Your Backdoor * http://www.outyourbackdoor.com publisher of do-it-yourself culture ... bikes, skis, boats & more! ... ... with radically relevant novels from the ULA & LiteraryRevolution.com! ... ... free music! ... tons o' articles! ... travel forums! ... WOW! 800-763-6923 |
#4
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prettiest view in the world?
What a journey that monday !
La molière is fantastic ! but groomed only when there is lack of snow in Autrans valley. A competitor is "La noire de Divonne", Jura, France, La Vattey site. Also wide view of French and Swiss Alps, lac Leman and Genève. I found this on the web : http://photogallery.free.fr/VATTAY_D/vattay.html |
#5
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prettiest view in the world?
On 5/4/04 5:45 pm, "Laurent Duparchy" wrote:
What a journey that monday ! La molire is fantastic ! but groomed only when there is lack of snow in Autrans valley. A competitor is "La noire de Divonne", Jura, France, La Vattey site. Also wide view of French and Swiss Alps, lac Leman and Genve. I found this on the web : http://photogallery.free.fr/VATTAY_D/vattay.html Jeff, I think, would go with Richard Jefferies' (19C British writer) observation that it is better to have a deep understanding of a few home acres than a superficial knowledge of the world. The French Alps take some beating though but how about Val d'Herens in the Valais, Switzerland? I've not been there in winter but it's wonderful in summer, has xc trails (and the Haute Route) and is said to be just as good if not better in winter. |
#6
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prettiest view in the world?
Prettiest view in the world of XC?
How about from the top of the podium? :^] jw milwaukee |
#7
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prettiest view in the world?
On Mon, 05 Apr 2004 21:29:52 -0400, Jeff Potter
wrote: J999w wrote: Prettiest view in the world of XC? How about from the top of the podium? Maybe someday. If the right people don't show up, eh Jay? : ) Regarding the 19thC writer, how about Thoreau, who said he "traveled widely in Concord." : ) I'm someone who's very tempted by 'grass is greener'-itis and have followed it globally for decades...so the past few years I've worked hard on screwing my eyes into good enough focus to see that here is cool, too. ...The minimalls, pavement, pro-sports-fans, TVheads and salesmen don't make it very easy, though. ...Neither does the frickin lack of hills and decent water. It takes a lot of squinting to see the beauty in a drainage ditch. But I did it growing up and am doing it now. A friend wrote a GREAT essay called "Paddling the Ditches of Meridian Township" on my OYB site years back. It's still there. I'm not the only one stuck in this boat. But I do feel weird about forcing my kids to be exposed to it. So we bought that little lot up in Idlewild. We'll see how that plays out. Next week I plan to take the nippers down to the local muddy trickle to see if we can find some crayfish. No trout, but crayfish can be heaven to a kid. Yep. If a person wants to find the best an urban or suburban area has to offer follow the kid trails. Every creek and railroad right of way will be entwined with them. Here in Merrill generations of kids have bushwhacked through a thicket called the "Indian Trails". While they are hard for a grownup to negotiate, once inside them you have a good chance of seeing dozens of different kinds of birds, rabbits (large and small), squirrels (red, grey and flying) and, since they are next to a river, mink. Kids need wild places and are lucky enough to be able to recognize them in areas measured in square yards not square miles (although having a few measured in square miles helps too). g.c. |
#8
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prettiest view in the world?
J999w wrote:
Prettiest view in the world of XC? How about from the top of the podium? Maybe someday. If the right people don't show up, eh Jay? : ) Regarding the 19thC writer, how about Thoreau, who said he "traveled widely in Concord." : ) I'm someone who's very tempted by 'grass is greener'-itis and have followed it globally for decades...so the past few years I've worked hard on screwing my eyes into good enough focus to see that here is cool, too. ....The minimalls, pavement, pro-sports-fans, TVheads and salesmen don't make it very easy, though. ....Neither does the frickin lack of hills and decent water. It takes a lot of squinting to see the beauty in a drainage ditch. But I did it growing up and am doing it now. A friend wrote a GREAT essay called "Paddling the Ditches of Meridian Township" on my OYB site years back. It's still there. I'm not the only one stuck in this boat. But I do feel weird about forcing my kids to be exposed to it. So we bought that little lot up in Idlewild. We'll see how that plays out. Next week I plan to take the nippers down to the local muddy trickle to see if we can find some crayfish. No trout, but crayfish can be heaven to a kid. -- Jeff Potter **** *Out Your Backdoor * http://www.outyourbackdoor.com publisher of do-it-yourself culture ... bikes, skis, boats & more! ... ... with radically relevant novels from the ULA & LiteraryRevolution.com! ... ... free music! ... tons o' articles! ... travel forums! ... WOW! 800-763-6923 |
#9
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prettiest view in the world?
PS: I've been taking photos of grey leafless forest scenes for the past
week. I'm seeing the beauty in the striated patterns of trunks. There are lots of kinds of gray. I cheated and included a puffy cloud of tiny red buds in one scene. I'll put em up at my site shortly. -- Jeff Potter **** *Out Your Backdoor * http://www.outyourbackdoor.com publisher of do-it-yourself culture ... bikes, skis, boats & more! ... ... with radically relevant novels from the ULA & LiteraryRevolution.com! ... ... free music! ... tons o' articles! ... travel forums! ... WOW! 800-763-6923 |
#10
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prettiest view in the world?
"La noire de Divonne" and La Vattay are on my list now -- thanks Laurent.
Looks like those less than 30 minutes from the Geneva airport. Very interesting for Sharon and me, because we can leave work in New York on a Friday afternoon, get on a non-stop airline flight, wake up in Geneva at 8:00 Saturday morning. With a little luck getting our skis out quickly thru baggage, we could be skiing at La Vattay by 9:30 the next morning. We almost did that a couple of weeks ago, but when we drove our rental car up to Col de la Faucille, it was clouds and light rain, so we didn't see or ski that day. New York is turning into such a fine base for skiing. Coming soon is the first scheduled non-stop flight to Oslo. Could leave work in Manhattan on Friday afternoon, take the train to Liberty airport, sleep on the flight, and wake up next morning by the road between Oslo and Lillehammer. Start out before lunch skating the Nordseter - Pellestova - Sjusjoen loop. Then drive to Salen that evening and do the Vasaloppot Oppet Spar on Sunday. Or perhaps more in keeping with the "prettiest view" in XC skiing theme, drive west from the airport to Rjukan. (wonder if we could make it there in time to ski the first day?) Ken |
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