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waxing question: overlapping area between kick and glide zone



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 18th 04, 03:51 PM
Mike Hui
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Default waxing question: overlapping area between kick and glide zone

1. In classic skiing, one needs to lengthen or shorten the mi-section of the
ski with kick wax. Let me call this the overlapping zone..
2. Kick wax doesn't stick well to glide wax.

When you prepare your ski, would you cover the overlapping zone with glide
wax or leave it bare? It appears to me the answer depends on whether the
kick wax glides better than bare surface.

Any suggestions?

.... Mke




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  #2  
Old January 18th 04, 07:13 PM
Griss
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Default waxing question: overlapping area between kick and glide zone

"Mike Hui" wrote in message
.cable.rogers.com...
1. In classic skiing, one needs to lengthen or shorten the mi-section of

the
ski with kick wax. Let me call this the overlapping zone..


I'm a little unclear about what you're saying here. Are you saying that in
some conditions you need to extend your kick wax beyond the normal "kick
zone" to get adequate grip - therefore overlapping the glide wax?

Is this a "waxable" or "waxless" ski?

Are you talking about skiing in groomed tracks or off track touring?

If this is a waxable ski - Have you accurately identified and *marked* your
kick zone - through a "paper test" as well as some on snow testing? ( if
you don't understand this, I could refer you to some instructions). In my
experience, the paper test is often, maybe even usually good enough, but
on-snow testing and re-marking is helpful. Once you figure out what your
kick zone is for any pair of skis, having to extend the wax beyond it
(overlapping the glide wax) is not very unusual in my experience.

Rather than extending kick wax to improve grip/kick, you should first add
additional layers of the kick wax you're using - you make it thicker so it's
easier to make contact with the snow. If that doesn't work, you should
change to a "stickier" (warmer temp) kick wax.

The third strategy would be to extend it beyond the normal kick zone, like I
think you're suggesting. I've found this doesn't happen very often, if at
all - maybe in soft, deep, new snow conditions. If you're talking about
touring in deep, ungroomed areas, this will probably be more common, and not
so unusual, but my advice about glide waxing the overlap zone (below) still
applies.

If this is a waxless ski, I don't really have any experience with them.
However, if you're mostly a track skier, my guess is that if you're
regularly having to use kick wax beyond the normal kick zone of a waxless
ski, the ski isn't right for your weight and should be replaced. Probably
too stiff. If touring in untracked snow, I have no idea if this is
common/normal or not, but regardless, my recommendation about glide waxing
(below) still applies.

2. Kick wax doesn't stick well to glide wax.


Absolutely.

When you prepare your ski, would you cover the overlapping zone with glide
wax or leave it bare? It appears to me the answer depends on whether the
kick wax glides better than bare surface.


In a waxable ski, the kick zone should be completely bare of glide wax.

For both types of ski, the rest of the ski, including the "overlapping zone"
you talk about, should be glide waxed - it is not good for the p-tex to be
bare - it can be damaged if not kept properly waxed. If you do indeed have
to extend kick wax beyond the normal kick zone, the kick wax in that small
area will indeed wear off faster. Unless you're racing, it's probably just
something you'd have to deal with and re-wax. If you're touring, tracked,
or untracked, it's no big deal to stop to wax.

Any suggestions?


If you're skiing on groomed tracks with either type of ski and find that you
have to wax beyond the "normal" kick zone a lot, my guess is that the ski is
too stiff for you. (or in the case of a waxable ski, the kick zone just
isn't accurately marked). As I said, I'm a little confused about your exact
situation, and I hope this helps.

Grissy




  #3  
Old January 18th 04, 07:16 PM
Griss
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Default waxing question: overlapping area between kick and glide zone


I wrote:

.. Once you figure out what your
kick zone is for any pair of skis, having to extend the wax beyond it
(overlapping the glide wax) is not very unusual in my experience.


I meant: not very USUAL (in other words, unusual) 8-)




  #4  
Old January 18th 04, 11:30 PM
Mike Hui
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Default waxing question: overlapping area between kick and glide zone


"Griss" wrote in message
...
For both types of ski, the rest of the ski, including the "overlapping

zone"
you talk about, should be glide waxed - it is not good for the p-tex to be
bare - it can be damaged if not kept properly waxed. If you do indeed

have
to extend kick wax beyond the normal kick zone, the kick wax in that small
area will indeed wear off faster. Unless you're racing, it's probably

just
something you'd have to deal with and re-wax. If you're touring, tracked,
or untracked, it's no big deal to stop to wax.


Griss,

Thanks for the lengthy reply. I should have stated my question clearer.

In essence, I was preparing my racing skis, ie. glide wax the glide zone and
roughen the kick zone when the question comes to my mind. Both pairs are
waxables. .Indeed I think one of the pairs is too stiff for me, in terms of
technique and power, not weight, unfortunatley. It is fast when I am fresh
and the track hard-packed. Otherwise, it hardly moves, like Saturday when
the fresh snow hadn't been compacted.

I have been extending the kick zone beyond the intended area.

Anyway, thanks for the explanation.

.... Mike


  #5  
Old January 19th 04, 02:40 AM
Gary Jacobson
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Default waxing question: overlapping area between kick and glide zone

I also find that kick wax doesn't adhere well to base that has been glide
waxed with paraffins. And it makes sense that it shouldn't. Yet some wax
gurus say that paraffin glide wax and stick kick wax are basically composed
of the same stuff and are compatible. Maybe true, but I couldn't get Toko
green basewax to adhere well to a Star paraffin glide waxed base last
weekend.

Then I did the sanding routine and the base and kick wax adhered great to
the base.

Gary Jacobson
Rosendale, NY


"Mike Hui" wrote in message
ble.rogers.com...

"Griss" wrote in message
...
For both types of ski, the rest of the ski, including the "overlapping

zone"
you talk about, should be glide waxed - it is not good for the p-tex to

be
bare - it can be damaged if not kept properly waxed. If you do indeed

have
to extend kick wax beyond the normal kick zone, the kick wax in that

small
area will indeed wear off faster. Unless you're racing, it's probably

just
something you'd have to deal with and re-wax. If you're touring,

tracked,
or untracked, it's no big deal to stop to wax.


Griss,

Thanks for the lengthy reply. I should have stated my question clearer.

In essence, I was preparing my racing skis, ie. glide wax the glide zone

and
roughen the kick zone when the question comes to my mind. Both pairs are
waxables. .Indeed I think one of the pairs is too stiff for me, in terms

of
technique and power, not weight, unfortunatley. It is fast when I am

fresh
and the track hard-packed. Otherwise, it hardly moves, like Saturday when
the fresh snow hadn't been compacted.

I have been extending the kick zone beyond the intended area.

Anyway, thanks for the explanation.

... Mike




 




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