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#1
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waxing question: overlapping area between kick and glide zone
1. In classic skiing, one needs to lengthen or shorten the mi-section of the
ski with kick wax. Let me call this the overlapping zone.. 2. Kick wax doesn't stick well to glide wax. When you prepare your ski, would you cover the overlapping zone with glide wax or leave it bare? It appears to me the answer depends on whether the kick wax glides better than bare surface. Any suggestions? .... Mke |
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#2
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waxing question: overlapping area between kick and glide zone
"Mike Hui" wrote in message
.cable.rogers.com... 1. In classic skiing, one needs to lengthen or shorten the mi-section of the ski with kick wax. Let me call this the overlapping zone.. I'm a little unclear about what you're saying here. Are you saying that in some conditions you need to extend your kick wax beyond the normal "kick zone" to get adequate grip - therefore overlapping the glide wax? Is this a "waxable" or "waxless" ski? Are you talking about skiing in groomed tracks or off track touring? If this is a waxable ski - Have you accurately identified and *marked* your kick zone - through a "paper test" as well as some on snow testing? ( if you don't understand this, I could refer you to some instructions). In my experience, the paper test is often, maybe even usually good enough, but on-snow testing and re-marking is helpful. Once you figure out what your kick zone is for any pair of skis, having to extend the wax beyond it (overlapping the glide wax) is not very unusual in my experience. Rather than extending kick wax to improve grip/kick, you should first add additional layers of the kick wax you're using - you make it thicker so it's easier to make contact with the snow. If that doesn't work, you should change to a "stickier" (warmer temp) kick wax. The third strategy would be to extend it beyond the normal kick zone, like I think you're suggesting. I've found this doesn't happen very often, if at all - maybe in soft, deep, new snow conditions. If you're talking about touring in deep, ungroomed areas, this will probably be more common, and not so unusual, but my advice about glide waxing the overlap zone (below) still applies. If this is a waxless ski, I don't really have any experience with them. However, if you're mostly a track skier, my guess is that if you're regularly having to use kick wax beyond the normal kick zone of a waxless ski, the ski isn't right for your weight and should be replaced. Probably too stiff. If touring in untracked snow, I have no idea if this is common/normal or not, but regardless, my recommendation about glide waxing (below) still applies. 2. Kick wax doesn't stick well to glide wax. Absolutely. When you prepare your ski, would you cover the overlapping zone with glide wax or leave it bare? It appears to me the answer depends on whether the kick wax glides better than bare surface. In a waxable ski, the kick zone should be completely bare of glide wax. For both types of ski, the rest of the ski, including the "overlapping zone" you talk about, should be glide waxed - it is not good for the p-tex to be bare - it can be damaged if not kept properly waxed. If you do indeed have to extend kick wax beyond the normal kick zone, the kick wax in that small area will indeed wear off faster. Unless you're racing, it's probably just something you'd have to deal with and re-wax. If you're touring, tracked, or untracked, it's no big deal to stop to wax. Any suggestions? If you're skiing on groomed tracks with either type of ski and find that you have to wax beyond the "normal" kick zone a lot, my guess is that the ski is too stiff for you. (or in the case of a waxable ski, the kick zone just isn't accurately marked). As I said, I'm a little confused about your exact situation, and I hope this helps. Grissy |
#3
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waxing question: overlapping area between kick and glide zone
I wrote: .. Once you figure out what your kick zone is for any pair of skis, having to extend the wax beyond it (overlapping the glide wax) is not very unusual in my experience. I meant: not very USUAL (in other words, unusual) 8-) |
#4
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waxing question: overlapping area between kick and glide zone
"Griss" wrote in message ... For both types of ski, the rest of the ski, including the "overlapping zone" you talk about, should be glide waxed - it is not good for the p-tex to be bare - it can be damaged if not kept properly waxed. If you do indeed have to extend kick wax beyond the normal kick zone, the kick wax in that small area will indeed wear off faster. Unless you're racing, it's probably just something you'd have to deal with and re-wax. If you're touring, tracked, or untracked, it's no big deal to stop to wax. Griss, Thanks for the lengthy reply. I should have stated my question clearer. In essence, I was preparing my racing skis, ie. glide wax the glide zone and roughen the kick zone when the question comes to my mind. Both pairs are waxables. .Indeed I think one of the pairs is too stiff for me, in terms of technique and power, not weight, unfortunatley. It is fast when I am fresh and the track hard-packed. Otherwise, it hardly moves, like Saturday when the fresh snow hadn't been compacted. I have been extending the kick zone beyond the intended area. Anyway, thanks for the explanation. .... Mike |
#5
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waxing question: overlapping area between kick and glide zone
I also find that kick wax doesn't adhere well to base that has been glide
waxed with paraffins. And it makes sense that it shouldn't. Yet some wax gurus say that paraffin glide wax and stick kick wax are basically composed of the same stuff and are compatible. Maybe true, but I couldn't get Toko green basewax to adhere well to a Star paraffin glide waxed base last weekend. Then I did the sanding routine and the base and kick wax adhered great to the base. Gary Jacobson Rosendale, NY "Mike Hui" wrote in message ble.rogers.com... "Griss" wrote in message ... For both types of ski, the rest of the ski, including the "overlapping zone" you talk about, should be glide waxed - it is not good for the p-tex to be bare - it can be damaged if not kept properly waxed. If you do indeed have to extend kick wax beyond the normal kick zone, the kick wax in that small area will indeed wear off faster. Unless you're racing, it's probably just something you'd have to deal with and re-wax. If you're touring, tracked, or untracked, it's no big deal to stop to wax. Griss, Thanks for the lengthy reply. I should have stated my question clearer. In essence, I was preparing my racing skis, ie. glide wax the glide zone and roughen the kick zone when the question comes to my mind. Both pairs are waxables. .Indeed I think one of the pairs is too stiff for me, in terms of technique and power, not weight, unfortunatley. It is fast when I am fresh and the track hard-packed. Otherwise, it hardly moves, like Saturday when the fresh snow hadn't been compacted. I have been extending the kick zone beyond the intended area. Anyway, thanks for the explanation. ... Mike |
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