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Ski Mountaineering



 
 
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  #1  
Old September 19th 03, 04:23 PM
Clyde
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Ski Mountaineering

SKI MOUNTAINEERING
BEN BACHMAN
Climbing Magazine, November, 1972

Ed. Note: Ben Bachman has done most of his winter climbing and ski
mountaineering in Idaho. Working as a cross-country ski instructor and
in a ski shop, he's been able to personally test all the items he
mentions in the article below.

I'm sure that many climbers have sat under a mid- summer sky on the
summit of a high peak and thought to themselves, what must all this be
like in the middle of winter?

Six feet of snow on the ground and sub-zero nighttime temperatures make
any wilderness more remote. But they also give it a special kind of
magnificence and challenge unknown to the summer alpinist. No matter
what the reason for penetrating into the mountains during winter -- to
ascend peaks, to carve turns down magnificent untouched snowfields, to
make a multiple- day alpine tour, to take pictures, or just to be there
-- the same problem presents itself. How do you travel over snow-covered
alpine landscape?

Now that cross-country skiing is once again in fashion, interest in ski
mountaineering is on the increase. This has contributed to the quantity,
quality and variety of suitable equipment. The multitude of ski design
innovations resulting from the runaway popularity of "alpine skiing"
(which I choose to regard as an offshoot of ski' mountaineering -- good
practice for the real thing) has also been of great benefit to the ski
mountaineer. It is apt to be a bit confusing for someone just taking up
the sport, however. Just what equipment is best for your specific needs?
The best piece of advice I can give is not to get too wrapped up in this
burgeoning technology. Just about any gear, as long as it is in good
working order, will get the job done. The main thing is to get out in
the mountains -- even if you have to use snowshoes! A high level of
physical fitness will be of greater use to the ski mountaineer than the
most sophisticated of equipment refinements.

Equipping one's self for ski mountaineering is likely to involve quite a
bit of modification and innovation. In this country at least, although
there is much equipment from which the ski mountaineer may choose, there
is little specifically made for him. This has resulted in differing
preferences among different skiers. In the preparation of this article I
have tried to combine my own experiences with that of others, but it is
still a subjective account. In addition, it is probably regionalistic as
well. I have done most of my ski mountaineering in Idaho. My
recommendations are unavoidably slanted to those conditions.
Before getting specific about different types of skis I would like to
outline some general considerations.

FLOTATION: Quite obviously, a ski should keep you on top of the snow.
This is the object of the game! Fortunately, just about any ski will
accomplish this -- regardless of width. Wide skis have an advantage in
deep powder or spring slush, but it is not critical.
DURABILITY: This is the most important consideration in picking out a
ski (or boot, binding or pole) for ski mountaineering. No matter what
its sophisticated design features, a broken ski is worse than no good --
it can be a serious liability. How do you assess the durability of a
specific kind of ski? Unless you are expert on the subject of ski
design, it's not easy.
WEIGHT: Weight, or rather the lack of it, is of great importance in ski
mountaineering gear. I am not sure of the absolute truth of the much
quoted "a pound on the feet is worth five on the back," but it seems
true on a long uphill grind. Naturally, durability shouldn't be
sacrificed to save weight. How do you resolve this? I will offer several
solutions.
PERFORMANCE: Performance should be considered only after the
qualifications of weight and durability have been met. Still, this
leaves a wide range of strong, light, well-performing skis to choose
from.

LIGHT TOURING SKIS
It is possible to use lightweight touring skis, toe bindings, and
touring shoes for ski mountaineering. Mountaineering boots must be
carried in the pack while skiing, but this is not impractical,
considering the light weight of the skis ("a pound on the feet
etc...."). The binding system is foolproof. The ski holds wax well. This
set-up is economically attractive if you already have good cross-country
gear or you don't plan to do that much ski mountaineering.

But what about downhill? It is amazing -- and can be a source of
considerable satisfaction -- what you can do on touring skis with
practice. The telemark turn is a forgotten art. Many of the modern
downhill techniques are possible also. Still, there is no denying that a
steep, icy slope is a substantial challenge -- a challenge I would
rather leave alone. Most wooden light touring skis are stronger than
they look, but it is important to choose a model of good quality. It
should be constructed with a high number of laminations and layers and
have hickory bottoms and lignostone edges. Models with air channels are
probably not strong enough. The new plastic and metal touring skis are
so strong as to be virtually indestructible and are very light as well.
The only problem here is a price tag which is rapidly approaching that
of alpine equipment. This is the rig for multi-day tours in sub-alpine
regions, but that is not ski mountaineering.

HEAVY TOURING SKIS
This class of ski is similar to light touring models but wider and
heavier (though not so wide or heavy as alpine skis). It makes sense to
use a climbing boot and cable binding with heavy touring skis. Since the
ski weigh more, you don't want to be lugging around an extra pair of
boots. A few heavy touring skis (not to be confused with "'mountain
skis") are available with steel edges. Since these are not downhill skis
-- with or without steel edges -- the extra weight and price is not
really worth it. Bonna makes a ski with half-length metal side edges
(marius edges). This supplies all the extra bit needed to ski icy side
hills. Lightweight plastic edges (Toko ski) are being developed.

MOUNTAIN SKIS
These skis (Bonna and Asnes among others) are almost as wide as standard
alpine skis but are a bit lighter. In appearance, they are similar to
the good alpine skis of about ten years ago. Glass and metal mountain
skis are starting to appear on the market. Their chief advantage is
increased strength, although the durability of wood models is excellent.
Considering the limitations of climbing boots in cable bindings,
mountain skis handle downhill runs quite well. They are well-adapted to
the type of touring found most often in ski mountaineering. Mountain
skis have a lot to recommend them: moderate weight, good waxing
characteristics, good durability, and reasonable performance on most
terrain and conditions.

CONVERTED ALPINE SKIS
Most ski mountaineers use this type of equipment. It is the best set up,
if the prospect of skiing untracked high-angle slopes is one of the main
things which attracts you to ski mountaineering. Another advantage is
cost. With the alpine ski industry firmly entrenched in the great
American ethic of planned obsolescence, it is easy to buy an excellent
pair of second-hand alpine skis at a quite reasonable price. These skis
are heavy, but since some are a lot heavier than others, it is a good
idea to compare a number of skis. Another way to cut down weight is to
use a ski 5-15 cm shorter than your normal alpine length. But, no matter
what you do, touring is going to be more work. Most artificial running
surfaces don't hold wax as well as the hickory bottoms of touring and
mountain skis. However, since you will most likely be using them on
steep terrain that demands skins much of the time anyway, this isn't too
much of a problem. Changing wax is easy, since there usually is not much
left to scrape off. Last winter I skied many miles on a pair of very
lightweight prototype honeycomb-construction racing skis (Hexcel). They
worked fairly well for touring and were a joy downhill. This type of ski
will be a good bet when they start becoming available second hand. To
sum up, converted alpine skis are not perfect, but you can have fun with
them, especially if the route does .not include many long, flat
stretches or "portages" where skis must be carried.

SHORT SKIS (150-170 cm)
This idea is fairly new, but well worth considering, if you plan to do
much climbing or hiking with skis strapped to your back. These skis are
not only a good bit lighter, but are a much less cumbersome load. They
are wider than alpine skis and work well touring -- especially in powder
or brush. Downhill is fun. You will probably discover technique you
didn't think you had. Track and Blizzard have models of this type.
Salewa makes the best set-up for ski mountaineering -- short skis of
fiberglass construction, lightweight edges, and a special set of short
skins. The whole thing weighs about three pounds with bindings.
Unfortunately, I know of no place in this country where it is available.
Short skis also open up new possibilities for summer skiing where it is
necessary to hike long distances to get to the snow.

BINDINGS
"Beartrap" cable bindings depend on the flexibility of the boot sole to
get the heel lift needed for touring. Since stiff-soled boots are
desirable for climbing and downhill skiing, this type of binding is not
so good. The lack of safety release is another bad feature. The "touring
attachment" (preferably used with a side-throw safety release) used to
be the traditional ski mountaineering binding set-up. However, a good
boot- binding fit can be difficult and the touring attachment itself
must be removed for downhill skiing. Better bindings are now available,
but the touring attachment is worth considering if you have some old
side-throw cable bindings lying around in the attic.

There are two step-in bindings designed for ski mountaineering. They
have very good safety releases and give very good control for downhill
skiing. However, they do not allow full lift when the heel is released
for touring. And they are expensive.

I think that the Silvretta binding (cable with front throw release) is
best for all-around ski mountaineering. A hinge arrangement allows 90
degrees of heel lift with stiff boots. Downhill control is good (the
more rigid the boot the better control), but not up to the level of a
step in. Although I have heard complaints about the Silvretta's
reliability, neither myself or anybody I have skied with has experienced
a binding failure. It is important that the binding be mounted properly
for your boot size. Perhaps it would be a good idea to carry a spare
cable. Bindings seem to be the weak point in ski mountaineering
equipment. It is wise to check them carefully before a trip --
especially the mounting screws. Avoid tightening the screws so much as
to strip the threads. It is a good idea to put some glue in the holes
when you first install the bindings. Check to see if your alpine skis
need any special type of adhesive to make the screws hold. I think it
makes sense to tryout any new boot-binding combination for five or ten
miles before committing yourself on a real trip. Just because a boot
feels good hiking does not mean it will skiing. Minor adjustments will
usually clear up trouble. A groove carved or ground into the heel can
improve the cable fit. In the case of the Silvretta, a notch cut in the
sole will sometimes improve toe piece fit. Some sort of raised heel
plate is good for keeping the heel centered while touring. Runaway
straps are also strongly recommended.

BOOTS
Chances are you already own a pair of boots suitable for ski
mountaineering. A good quality climbing boot is usually a good ski
mountaineering boot. A stiff boots good for climbing -- especially with
crampons -- and for downhill skiing. A loose fit will sacrifice downhill
control and cause blisters touring, but fit should not be so tight as to
prompt frozen feet. There are a few boots that will not fit properly in
certain bindings. Generally, the more pointed the toe, the less secure
the binding fit.

I have had good luck using a double mountaineering boot (Galibier
Hivernale). It fits well in the Silvretta binding and provides ankle
support for downhill skiing. Small outside dimensions and relative light
weight make it good for climbing. I t is warm in very cold conditions,
as well as being waterproof in mushy spring skiing (the new plastic
climbing boots should be fine for this). With a double boot you can wear
the inner boot in the sleeping bag and avoid the pain of forcing feet
into frozen boots the next morning. The price is intimidating, but if
you plan in encountering severe conditions no price is too great to
avoid frozen toes. Boots designed specially for ski mountaineering --
both single and double -- are available. They work great for skiing and
ice climbing but are less effective for rock climbing. They cost less
than double mountaineering boots. Old leather alpine lace-up ski boots
can be used with good results for ski mountaineering if a lot of
climbing is not planned.

CLIMBING SKINS
It is possible to depend solely on wax and get by without climbing
skins, but you are making a lot of extra work for yourself. With skins
you can cruise straight up slopes that would have to be sidestepped
otherwise. Make sure that your skins have the "Vinersa" type fastening
system. It is helpful to sew on a couple of extra fasteners to lessen
the chance of snow building up between the skin and the ski. The front
fastening is the critical point. If you are not satisfied with its
buckle arrangement, replace it with another type. It is extremely
frustrating to have a skin come adrift at the tip while climbing a steep
grade with a heavy pack. On one particularly nasty night last winter, I
left my skins attached to my skis sticking up in the snow in front of
the tent. The next morning I couldn't get them off.

POLES
Bamboo touring poles are not strong enough for most ski mountaineering.
Metal touring poles are much more rugged and are very light. (I have
broken a high quality metal touring pole while skiing, but I tend to
think this was something of a freak accident.) Alpine poles work fine,
if they are long enough. Preferably, they should come up to the armpits.
Larger baskets are nice, but not necessary . While on poles, I'd like to
stick in a word about handgear. Wool mittens (including Dachstein mitts
which are so good for winter climbing) will not stand up to extended
touring. The constant contact with the pole wears a hole on the inside
of the thumb. A nylon overn1itt might slow this process.

TECHNIQUE
I don't have much to say on technique. There are plenty of fine
cross-country and alpine instructors around. In any event, ski
mountaineering doesn't den1and a highly-polished style. There are some
ski mountaineers who would claim that an over-knowledge of technique
takes the sport out of it. I tend to agree. The point is to get out and
have fun! The touring part will come naturally. But I would suggest, if
you have never tried alpine, not to wait until the summit of a 12,000-
foot peak to point the new boards downhill for the first time! There are
few sports which are as demanding as ski mountaineering. An ambitious
tour will involve extraordinary amounts of physical effort and is likely
to include a certain amount of painful discomfort as well. A substantial
amount of objective danger, inherent to the high mountains anytime, but
especially in winter, is inevitable. Every facet of mountain craft plays
a vital role in dealing with these conditions. The ski mountaineer must
draw upon all the experience, skill and judgment he possesses.

But, if ski mountaineering is demanding, it is a1so extremely rewarding.
The aesthetic experience of the alpine winter cannot be adequately
described. It must be seen first hand. It is as fine a reward as is
obtainable by a mountaineer.

But, despite all this grim talk, ski mountaineers have never been guilty
of taking themselves too seriously. The sport is too much fun for that!
I hope that this article will prove helpful as an equipment guideline if
you are a beginner. If you have been at it for a while, perhaps it can
provide some new ideas. Have some good tours this season!
Ads
  #2  
Old September 21st 03, 05:31 PM
Vince
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

OK, I'm an idiot, I didn't notice the date on this original article was
from 1972. If my indignant posting ever actually makes it to the newsgroup
I would like to appologize in advance for overlooking the date of the
article. I suppose things have come a ways in 30 years of ski
mountaineering.

(humbly signed) Vinnie

"Clyde" wrote in message
.. .
SKI MOUNTAINEERING
BEN BACHMAN
Climbing Magazine, November, 1972

Ed. Note: Ben Bachman has done most of his winter climbing and ski
mountaineering in Idaho. Working as a cross-country ski instructor and
in a ski shop, he's been able to personally test all the items he
mentions in the article below.

I'm sure that many climbers have sat under a mid- summer sky on the
summit of a high peak and thought to themselves, what must all this be
like in the middle of winter?

Six feet of snow on the ground and sub-zero nighttime temperatures make
any wilderness more remote. But they also give it a special kind of
magnificence and challenge unknown to the summer alpinist. No matter
what the reason for penetrating into the mountains during winter -- to
ascend peaks, to carve turns down magnificent untouched snowfields, to
make a multiple- day alpine tour, to take pictures, or just to be there
-- the same problem presents itself. How do you travel over snow-covered
alpine landscape?

Now that cross-country skiing is once again in fashion, interest in ski
mountaineering is on the increase. This has contributed to the quantity,
quality and variety of suitable equipment. The multitude of ski design
innovations resulting from the runaway popularity of "alpine skiing"
(which I choose to regard as an offshoot of ski' mountaineering -- good
practice for the real thing) has also been of great benefit to the ski
mountaineer. It is apt to be a bit confusing for someone just taking up
the sport, however. Just what equipment is best for your specific needs?
The best piece of advice I can give is not to get too wrapped up in this
burgeoning technology. Just about any gear, as long as it is in good
working order, will get the job done. The main thing is to get out in
the mountains -- even if you have to use snowshoes! A high level of
physical fitness will be of greater use to the ski mountaineer than the
most sophisticated of equipment refinements.

Equipping one's self for ski mountaineering is likely to involve quite a
bit of modification and innovation. In this country at least, although
there is much equipment from which the ski mountaineer may choose, there
is little specifically made for him. This has resulted in differing
preferences among different skiers. In the preparation of this article I
have tried to combine my own experiences with that of others, but it is
still a subjective account. In addition, it is probably regionalistic as
well. I have done most of my ski mountaineering in Idaho. My
recommendations are unavoidably slanted to those conditions.
Before getting specific about different types of skis I would like to
outline some general considerations.

FLOTATION: Quite obviously, a ski should keep you on top of the snow.
This is the object of the game! Fortunately, just about any ski will
accomplish this -- regardless of width. Wide skis have an advantage in
deep powder or spring slush, but it is not critical.
DURABILITY: This is the most important consideration in picking out a
ski (or boot, binding or pole) for ski mountaineering. No matter what
its sophisticated design features, a broken ski is worse than no good --
it can be a serious liability. How do you assess the durability of a
specific kind of ski? Unless you are expert on the subject of ski
design, it's not easy.
WEIGHT: Weight, or rather the lack of it, is of great importance in ski
mountaineering gear. I am not sure of the absolute truth of the much
quoted "a pound on the feet is worth five on the back," but it seems
true on a long uphill grind. Naturally, durability shouldn't be
sacrificed to save weight. How do you resolve this? I will offer several
solutions.
PERFORMANCE: Performance should be considered only after the
qualifications of weight and durability have been met. Still, this
leaves a wide range of strong, light, well-performing skis to choose
from.

LIGHT TOURING SKIS
It is possible to use lightweight touring skis, toe bindings, and
touring shoes for ski mountaineering. Mountaineering boots must be
carried in the pack while skiing, but this is not impractical,
considering the light weight of the skis ("a pound on the feet
etc...."). The binding system is foolproof. The ski holds wax well. This
set-up is economically attractive if you already have good cross-country
gear or you don't plan to do that much ski mountaineering.

But what about downhill? It is amazing -- and can be a source of
considerable satisfaction -- what you can do on touring skis with
practice. The telemark turn is a forgotten art. Many of the modern
downhill techniques are possible also. Still, there is no denying that a
steep, icy slope is a substantial challenge -- a challenge I would
rather leave alone. Most wooden light touring skis are stronger than
they look, but it is important to choose a model of good quality. It
should be constructed with a high number of laminations and layers and
have hickory bottoms and lignostone edges. Models with air channels are
probably not strong enough. The new plastic and metal touring skis are
so strong as to be virtually indestructible and are very light as well.
The only problem here is a price tag which is rapidly approaching that
of alpine equipment. This is the rig for multi-day tours in sub-alpine
regions, but that is not ski mountaineering.

HEAVY TOURING SKIS
This class of ski is similar to light touring models but wider and
heavier (though not so wide or heavy as alpine skis). It makes sense to
use a climbing boot and cable binding with heavy touring skis. Since the
ski weigh more, you don't want to be lugging around an extra pair of
boots. A few heavy touring skis (not to be confused with "'mountain
skis") are available with steel edges. Since these are not downhill skis
-- with or without steel edges -- the extra weight and price is not
really worth it. Bonna makes a ski with half-length metal side edges
(marius edges). This supplies all the extra bit needed to ski icy side
hills. Lightweight plastic edges (Toko ski) are being developed.

MOUNTAIN SKIS
These skis (Bonna and Asnes among others) are almost as wide as standard
alpine skis but are a bit lighter. In appearance, they are similar to
the good alpine skis of about ten years ago. Glass and metal mountain
skis are starting to appear on the market. Their chief advantage is
increased strength, although the durability of wood models is excellent.
Considering the limitations of climbing boots in cable bindings,
mountain skis handle downhill runs quite well. They are well-adapted to
the type of touring found most often in ski mountaineering. Mountain
skis have a lot to recommend them: moderate weight, good waxing
characteristics, good durability, and reasonable performance on most
terrain and conditions.

CONVERTED ALPINE SKIS
Most ski mountaineers use this type of equipment. It is the best set up,
if the prospect of skiing untracked high-angle slopes is one of the main
things which attracts you to ski mountaineering. Another advantage is
cost. With the alpine ski industry firmly entrenched in the great
American ethic of planned obsolescence, it is easy to buy an excellent
pair of second-hand alpine skis at a quite reasonable price. These skis
are heavy, but since some are a lot heavier than others, it is a good
idea to compare a number of skis. Another way to cut down weight is to
use a ski 5-15 cm shorter than your normal alpine length. But, no matter
what you do, touring is going to be more work. Most artificial running
surfaces don't hold wax as well as the hickory bottoms of touring and
mountain skis. However, since you will most likely be using them on
steep terrain that demands skins much of the time anyway, this isn't too
much of a problem. Changing wax is easy, since there usually is not much
left to scrape off. Last winter I skied many miles on a pair of very
lightweight prototype honeycomb-construction racing skis (Hexcel). They
worked fairly well for touring and were a joy downhill. This type of ski
will be a good bet when they start becoming available second hand. To
sum up, converted alpine skis are not perfect, but you can have fun with
them, especially if the route does .not include many long, flat
stretches or "portages" where skis must be carried.

SHORT SKIS (150-170 cm)
This idea is fairly new, but well worth considering, if you plan to do
much climbing or hiking with skis strapped to your back. These skis are
not only a good bit lighter, but are a much less cumbersome load. They
are wider than alpine skis and work well touring -- especially in powder
or brush. Downhill is fun. You will probably discover technique you
didn't think you had. Track and Blizzard have models of this type.
Salewa makes the best set-up for ski mountaineering -- short skis of
fiberglass construction, lightweight edges, and a special set of short
skins. The whole thing weighs about three pounds with bindings.
Unfortunately, I know of no place in this country where it is available.
Short skis also open up new possibilities for summer skiing where it is
necessary to hike long distances to get to the snow.

BINDINGS
"Beartrap" cable bindings depend on the flexibility of the boot sole to
get the heel lift needed for touring. Since stiff-soled boots are
desirable for climbing and downhill skiing, this type of binding is not
so good. The lack of safety release is another bad feature. The "touring
attachment" (preferably used with a side-throw safety release) used to
be the traditional ski mountaineering binding set-up. However, a good
boot- binding fit can be difficult and the touring attachment itself
must be removed for downhill skiing. Better bindings are now available,
but the touring attachment is worth considering if you have some old
side-throw cable bindings lying around in the attic.

There are two step-in bindings designed for ski mountaineering. They
have very good safety releases and give very good control for downhill
skiing. However, they do not allow full lift when the heel is released
for touring. And they are expensive.

I think that the Silvretta binding (cable with front throw release) is
best for all-around ski mountaineering. A hinge arrangement allows 90
degrees of heel lift with stiff boots. Downhill control is good (the
more rigid the boot the better control), but not up to the level of a
step in. Although I have heard complaints about the Silvretta's
reliability, neither myself or anybody I have skied with has experienced
a binding failure. It is important that the binding be mounted properly
for your boot size. Perhaps it would be a good idea to carry a spare
cable. Bindings seem to be the weak point in ski mountaineering
equipment. It is wise to check them carefully before a trip --
especially the mounting screws. Avoid tightening the screws so much as
to strip the threads. It is a good idea to put some glue in the holes
when you first install the bindings. Check to see if your alpine skis
need any special type of adhesive to make the screws hold. I think it
makes sense to tryout any new boot-binding combination for five or ten
miles before committing yourself on a real trip. Just because a boot
feels good hiking does not mean it will skiing. Minor adjustments will
usually clear up trouble. A groove carved or ground into the heel can
improve the cable fit. In the case of the Silvretta, a notch cut in the
sole will sometimes improve toe piece fit. Some sort of raised heel
plate is good for keeping the heel centered while touring. Runaway
straps are also strongly recommended.

BOOTS
Chances are you already own a pair of boots suitable for ski
mountaineering. A good quality climbing boot is usually a good ski
mountaineering boot. A stiff boots good for climbing -- especially with
crampons -- and for downhill skiing. A loose fit will sacrifice downhill
control and cause blisters touring, but fit should not be so tight as to
prompt frozen feet. There are a few boots that will not fit properly in
certain bindings. Generally, the more pointed the toe, the less secure
the binding fit.

I have had good luck using a double mountaineering boot (Galibier
Hivernale). It fits well in the Silvretta binding and provides ankle
support for downhill skiing. Small outside dimensions and relative light
weight make it good for climbing. I t is warm in very cold conditions,
as well as being waterproof in mushy spring skiing (the new plastic
climbing boots should be fine for this). With a double boot you can wear
the inner boot in the sleeping bag and avoid the pain of forcing feet
into frozen boots the next morning. The price is intimidating, but if
you plan in encountering severe conditions no price is too great to
avoid frozen toes. Boots designed specially for ski mountaineering --
both single and double -- are available. They work great for skiing and
ice climbing but are less effective for rock climbing. They cost less
than double mountaineering boots. Old leather alpine lace-up ski boots
can be used with good results for ski mountaineering if a lot of
climbing is not planned.

CLIMBING SKINS
It is possible to depend solely on wax and get by without climbing
skins, but you are making a lot of extra work for yourself. With skins
you can cruise straight up slopes that would have to be sidestepped
otherwise. Make sure that your skins have the "Vinersa" type fastening
system. It is helpful to sew on a couple of extra fasteners to lessen
the chance of snow building up between the skin and the ski. The front
fastening is the critical point. If you are not satisfied with its
buckle arrangement, replace it with another type. It is extremely
frustrating to have a skin come adrift at the tip while climbing a steep
grade with a heavy pack. On one particularly nasty night last winter, I
left my skins attached to my skis sticking up in the snow in front of
the tent. The next morning I couldn't get them off.

POLES
Bamboo touring poles are not strong enough for most ski mountaineering.
Metal touring poles are much more rugged and are very light. (I have
broken a high quality metal touring pole while skiing, but I tend to
think this was something of a freak accident.) Alpine poles work fine,
if they are long enough. Preferably, they should come up to the armpits.
Larger baskets are nice, but not necessary . While on poles, I'd like to
stick in a word about handgear. Wool mittens (including Dachstein mitts
which are so good for winter climbing) will not stand up to extended
touring. The constant contact with the pole wears a hole on the inside
of the thumb. A nylon overn1itt might slow this process.

TECHNIQUE
I don't have much to say on technique. There are plenty of fine
cross-country and alpine instructors around. In any event, ski
mountaineering doesn't den1and a highly-polished style. There are some
ski mountaineers who would claim that an over-knowledge of technique
takes the sport out of it. I tend to agree. The point is to get out and
have fun! The touring part will come naturally. But I would suggest, if
you have never tried alpine, not to wait until the summit of a 12,000-
foot peak to point the new boards downhill for the first time! There are
few sports which are as demanding as ski mountaineering. An ambitious
tour will involve extraordinary amounts of physical effort and is likely
to include a certain amount of painful discomfort as well. A substantial
amount of objective danger, inherent to the high mountains anytime, but
especially in winter, is inevitable. Every facet of mountain craft plays
a vital role in dealing with these conditions. The ski mountaineer must
draw upon all the experience, skill and judgment he possesses.

But, if ski mountaineering is demanding, it is a1so extremely rewarding.
The aesthetic experience of the alpine winter cannot be adequately
described. It must be seen first hand. It is as fine a reward as is
obtainable by a mountaineer.

But, despite all this grim talk, ski mountaineers have never been guilty
of taking themselves too seriously. The sport is too much fun for that!
I hope that this article will prove helpful as an equipment guideline if
you are a beginner. If you have been at it for a while, perhaps it can
provide some new ideas. Have some good tours this season!



  #3  
Old September 23rd 03, 09:18 PM
Ed Huesers
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Clyde wrote:
Climbing Magazine, November, 1972


Ed. Note: Ben Bachman


Huh! Me? Oh, was just catching a nap.
He must be getting on in age by now...


Ed Huesers
http://www.grandshelters.com
 




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