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#11
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"Neil Swingler" wrote in message
... Paul ( Skiing8 ) wrote: "Ace" wrote in message ... On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 16:26:14 -0000, "Paul \( Skiing8 \)" wrote: "Ace" wrote in message ... On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 15:38:18 -0000, "Paul \( Skiing8 \)" wrote: I need a new edge file, some base repair products and I might possibly treat myself to a propper wax iron instead of using the old clothes iron I currently use. They should certainly have that lot, although I have to say I've never managed to get edges as sharp as a shop machine-service does. For waxing I use an old 'travel' iron, which does the job perfectly, although I have to let it re-heat for a few seconds between strokes, IYSWIM. A blowtorch is also useful for base repairs, but should be used with caution, as overheating can easily lead to base de-lamination. I find the opposit, the machine ground job is not as good as what I can do. Really? On the edges? I've done 'em with a couple of different file-guide thingies, but never seem to get them really sharp. TBH though, I'm not that bothered - I tend to just deburr the edges freehand with a rough file or stone and then file them until they're smooth with the proper tool. It took me a long time but I finally figured out how to do it, I run the rough file over the base first then followed by a fine file, then using a 90 deg file holder and one of those cresent shaped files I run it along the edge, the file must be really sharp and you only run it in the direction of the cut of the file. When I do this I can run it down the length of the ski and remove a shaving of metal that curls up into a little coil, the shaving is really thin. Before I figured this out I was running the file up and down rapidly and it blunted the file... no good. I got a diamond file recently that I want to have a go with, many years ago I was tought by someone to service skiis and they had a diamon file and I remember it did a good job. snip After reading this thread: http://www.extremecarving.com/forum/...ight=tooltonic I bought a Tooltonic edge tool from www.tooltonic.com - just sent them an email. They sent me the tool + a bill for 99 CHF - only in Switzerland :-) It is indeed very effective. Only does side edges though. -- Neil Swingler That looks pretty good, the tuning set will cost about £46+ delivery. I use a flat file for the bases anyway so it is not a problem that it only does the edges. Paul |
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#12
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David Brown ) wrote:
£4.50 for an iron in Argos. They're steam irons but who cares? The holes could get bunged up so instead of a nice surface like an old flat iron you get something that feels lumpy and draggy. -- James... www.jameshart.co.uk |
#13
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"James Hart" wrote in message
The holes could get bunged up so instead of a nice surface like an old flat iron you get something that feels lumpy and draggy. What a load of old piffle. -- kitemap http://ugcc.co.uk |
#14
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"James Hart" wrote in message
... David Brown ) wrote: £4.50 for an iron in Argos. They're steam irons but who cares? The holes could get bunged up so instead of a nice surface like an old flat iron you get something that feels lumpy and draggy. -- James... www.jameshart.co.uk With the steam iron I use at the moment there isn't a problem, just run the iron off the end and its fine...... anyhow, you scrape the surface wax off, the wax only stayes in the microscopic pores of the base, and dimples or uneven wax doesn't matter. Paul |
#15
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James Hart wrote:
The holes could get bunged up so instead of a nice surface like an old flat iron you get something that feels lumpy and draggy. I don't think there actually is any problem using a steam iron. But if you really wanted a non-steam iron, Rowenta still make one. http://www.electricshop.com/invt/4011row110516a They cost about 20 quid, and they're plenty powerful. Also, Index still carry a non-steam travel iron. I've got one of those, it works, but you have to take it fairly slowly - it isn't powerful to melt very much wax at once. It was cheap (about a fiver), but its very flimsy, on reflection I think I'd have been better of with a more robustly built steam version. HTH. |
#16
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Paul ( Skiing8 ) wrote:
"Ace" wrote in message ... On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 15:38:18 -0000, "Paul \( Skiing8 \)" wrote: Does anyone service their own skiis here? I've been know to, but generally only when there's a repair to be done. Pitex application is one of those things that's better done manually, rather than by machine, and is not difficult. For normal edge&wax servicing I try and throw it into a friendly shop in resort when I'm repping, which has the added advantage of often not costing me anything, so may influence my decisionsomewhat :-) I am pretty good at P-tex'ing except for deep or near edge fills, the normal repair candles cannot hold that well and I need some strips or higher density sticks. Unfortunatly when skiing its a hit or miss if I find the right shop and don't get ripped off. The best way to repair hits near the edge is the patch the base, PTex just falls out after a couple of days (if that). This sounds pretty trickey - S+R have done mine twice and the results are utterly perfect. You can only see where the patch is if you hold the skis up to a bright light. |
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