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#1
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Need Repair Advice
I hit some rough terrain today that did a bit of damage to the bases of my
Fischer SCS Classics. On one ski I have a gouge that is in the same direction as the structure. It's not bad, but it has some strings and hairs with it. What is the best way to deal with these? Cold wax & scraping? The other ski did a bit worse. It's got a gouge running diagonally across the structure, mostly on one side of the center groove. I know that the deepest part of the gouge is not repairable, but what about the raised section on either side of it? Is there any way with wax, heat and a plastic scraper to "press" the sides of the gouge down so that the edges are more or less flat with the rest of the base. Luckily these are not my "good" skis. Unfortunately this bit of rough terrain appeared in the middle of a steep downhill on a day with otherwise good surface conditions. |
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#2
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Need Repair Advice
This is what I did with sinilar scratches and it worked out perfectly:
If you have some wax remover use it to clean the base of the ski. Repair the scratches to the base with a petex candle. A quiet blue flame on the candle is ideal and produces little or no black carbon. Hold the lighted candle close to the repair area so the heat of the blue flame warms up the repair area. This encourages a good weld. For deep rips build up in layers going back and forth over the repair. For small scratches twist the candle over the repair painting the molten petex into the scratch. Once the repair area has cooled and hardened, scrape away the excess with a steel scraper until it is flush with the ski base. R |
#3
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Need Repair Advice
On Jan 17, 6:20*pm, Mac wrote:
I hit some rough terrain today that did a bit of damage to the bases of my Fischer SCS Classics. On one ski I have a gouge that is in the same direction as the structure. It's not bad, but it has some strings and hairs with it. What is the best way to deal with these? Cold wax & scraping? The other ski did a bit worse. It's got a gouge running diagonally across the structure, mostly on one side of the center groove. I know that the deepest part of the gouge is not repairable, but what about the raised section on either side of it? Is there any way with wax, heat and a plastic scraper to "press" the sides of the gouge down so that the edges are more or less flat with the rest of the base. Luckily these are not my "good" skis. Unfortunately this bit of rough terrain appeared in the middle of a steep downhill on a day with otherwise good surface conditions. Minor scratches need not be repaired and should not be filled because the melt-in P-tex will be less able to "absorb" wax than your sintered P-tex. If the damage is deeper than the base P-tex, you need to patch/ repaire the gouge with slow setting epoxy to keep moisture out of the base structure. Take a look at the Tognar website for repair stuff: http://www.tognar.com/base_repair_to...es_damage.html Our club owns a Tognar base repair iron (like a low power soldering iron) and a supply of P-tex repair string and ribbon. As noted by others, first clean out the damaged area with wax remover. I would then abrade the damage area with silicone carbide sandpaper, then apply the repair material with the repair iron. I like the repair iron because it doesn't drip burn (carbon) material into the moltent P-tex. Then finish the repair with file/scraper/sand paper etc to return the base to a flat surface with the appropriate structure (with the appropriate final grit) or send it in for base structure grinding. |
#4
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Need Repair Advice
On Jan 17, 6:20*pm, Mac wrote:
I hit some rough terrain today that did a bit of damage to the bases of my Fischer SCS Classics. On one ski I have a gouge that is in the same direction as the structure. It's not bad, but it has some strings and hairs with it. What is the best way to deal with these? Cold wax & scraping? The other ski did a bit worse. It's got a gouge running diagonally across the structure, mostly on one side of the center groove. I know that the deepest part of the gouge is not repairable, but what about the raised section on either side of it? Is there any way with wax, heat and a plastic scraper to "press" the sides of the gouge down so that the edges are more or less flat with the rest of the base. Luckily these are not my "good" skis. Unfortunately this bit of rough terrain appeared in the middle of a steep downhill on a day with otherwise good surface conditions. I usually stonegrind my skis. A few scratches shouldn't slow the skis down beyond the statistical error introduced by such variables as flex, weather, wax, and technique. |
#5
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Need Repair Advice
On Jan 18, 4:33*pm, wrote:
On Jan 17, 6:20*pm, Mac wrote: did a bit of damage to the bases of my Fischer SCS Classics. Minor scratches need not be repaired should not be filled because the melt-in P-tex will be less able to "absorb" wax *If the damage is deeper than the base P-tex, you need to patch/repair the gouge with slow setting epoxy to keep moisture out I agree with the basic message here - that is to protect the interior of the ski from delaminating if the gouge is that deep and to prevent base drag that will occur. Don't worry about minor scratches. The melt-in P-Tex repairs WILL NOT adsorb any wax, probably ever. If you think about it, it is a burning, molten lump of plastic you are dripping on to the ski base (I've no experience w/ the "gun-type" device). It probably will sear the adjoining base surfaces as well. If the gouge is past the base material, you'll likely set the ski innards on fire if you do not do an epoxy repair first. You will be able to structure the repaired area with stonegrinding or other hand tools. Before I use a P-Tex candle, I would use a strip of the P-Tex repair tape. Using an X-acto knife, square up the damaged area and carefully cut it away. Just as carefully, glue in a strip of the tape and hand sand it to fit. Again, this all assumes that the underlying ski inner core is not damaged - you want to be laying the tape on top of this. How do I know this stuff? First hand experience with most of the above, spending a weekend w/ Zach Caldwell for the rest! - Bob |
#6
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Need Repair Advice
On Jan 20, 5:08*am, highpeaksnordic wrote:
On Jan 18, 4:33*pm, wrote: On Jan 17, 6:20*pm, Mac wrote: *did a bit of damage to the bases of my Fischer SCS Classics. Minor scratches need not be repaired should not be filled because the melt-in P-tex will be less able to "absorb" wax *If the damage is deeper than the base P-tex, you need to patch/repair the gouge with slow setting epoxy to keep moisture out I agree with the basic message here - that is to protect the interior of the ski from delaminating if the gouge is that deep and to prevent base drag that will occur. *Don't worry about minor scratches. The melt-in P-Tex repairs WILL NOT adsorb any wax, probably ever. *If you think about it, it is a burning, molten lump of plastic you are dripping on to the ski base (I've no experience w/ the "gun-type" device). *It probably will sear the adjoining base surfaces as well. If the gouge is past the base material, you'll likely set the ski innards on fire if you do not do an epoxy repair first. *You will be able to structure the repaired area with stonegrinding or other hand tools. Before I use a P-Tex candle, I would use a strip of the P-Tex repair tape. *Using an X-acto knife, square up the damaged area and carefully cut it away. *Just as carefully, glue in a strip of the tape and hand sand it to fit. *Again, this all assumes that the underlying ski inner core is not damaged - you want to be laying the tape on top of this. How do I know this stuff? *First hand experience with most of the above, spending a weekend w/ Zach Caldwell for the rest! - Bob The advantage of using an soldering type iron or gun with the P-tex string or tape is in limiting the amount of melted P-tex applied to the base. Dripping moltent P-tex tends to drop blobs of hot P-tex sealing a larger area of the base than using an iron. The only non-structural gouges that benefit from repair are the ones so big that removing hot wax is a problem. Brushing will usually remove wax from scratches just as it removes wax from "structure". |
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