A Snow and ski forum. SkiBanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » SkiBanter forum » Skiing Newsgroups » Snowboarding
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

Edge bevel, waxes, etc.... Not in FAQ



 
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old January 10th 05, 06:52 PM
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Edge bevel, waxes, etc.... Not in FAQ


So I read alot about edge bevels. I see alot of reference to 0/0 or
1/0 etc. I see alot of reference to medium vs. hot wax. For someone
wanting to get into DIY board tuning, what is a good place to start to
learn about all this and then to learn about the techniques, tools /
jigs, etc to do the work.
Either I can't find it, or it is not in the FAQ.

Thanks.

Brian.

Ads
  #3  
Old January 10th 05, 08:59 PM
lonerider
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

wrote:
So I read alot about edge bevels. I see alot of reference to 0/0 or
1/0 etc. I see alot of reference to medium vs. hot wax. For someone
wanting to get into DIY board tuning, what is a good place to start

to
learn about all this and then to learn about the techniques, tools /
jigs, etc to do the work.
Either I can't find it, or it is not in the FAQ.

Thanks.

Brian.



Try
www.tognar.com it has tune/wax tutorials and tips and tricks
databases.

I think you mean cold/all-temp/warm *weather* wax. Stick with
all-temperate wax unless you are in unique weather conditions (like
subzero condition in Alaska or slushy conditions in Pac-NW). If I
recall you are a Tahoe rider, so stick with all-temp wax.

I would also start off with only deburring your edges mainly...
fiddling with your bevels when you don't know what you are doing is a
recipe for disaster. 99% of the references to 0/0 bevels here at RSS
are from people who own Doneks (which come with a 0/0 bevel as opposed
to most boards which come with a 1/1 or 1/2 bevel) A shop will almost
always give you a 1/1 bevel, even if you ask for something else!
Sharpening yourself is not as cost effective as waxing yourself either.
A file or two costs $10-15 and a guide costs what... $100 for a good
pair? (in contrast a cheap iron cost $2-5 and your can buy a block of
wax for $15 that will last you like 10-15 board waxings).

That's just my opinion. Mike (he knows a lot more than me)... do you
have any suggestions?

  #4  
Old January 10th 05, 10:09 PM
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default


So 1/2 means 1 degree side / 2 degrees base or 1 degree base / 2
degrees side?

I was told my board shipped with "a base bevel of 1 degree off the
bottom and sidewall angles will be 90 degrees". Does this translate to
1/1 ?

Thanks.

Brian.

Try www.tognar.com it has tune/wax tutorials and tips and tricks
databases.

I think you mean cold/all-temp/warm *weather* wax. Stick with
all-temperate wax unless you are in unique weather conditions (like
subzero condition in Alaska or slushy conditions in Pac-NW). If I
recall you are a Tahoe rider, so stick with all-temp wax.

I would also start off with only deburring your edges mainly...
fiddling with your bevels when you don't know what you are doing is a
recipe for disaster. 99% of the references to 0/0 bevels here at RSS
are from people who own Doneks (which come with a 0/0 bevel as

opposed
to most boards which come with a 1/1 or 1/2 bevel) A shop will almost
always give you a 1/1 bevel, even if you ask for something else!
Sharpening yourself is not as cost effective as waxing yourself

either.
A file or two costs $10-15 and a guide costs what... $100 for a good
pair? (in contrast a cheap iron cost $2-5 and your can buy a block of
wax for $15 that will last you like 10-15 board waxings).

That's just my opinion. Mike (he knows a lot more than me)... do you
have any suggestions?


  #6  
Old January 11th 05, 12:36 AM
Mike T
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

That's just my opinion. Mike (he knows a lot more than me)... do you
have any suggestions?


Just a couple of things to add:

I definitely agree with lonerider, that waxing is the most cost-effective
DIY thing you can do. Shops make a huge profit on waxing! Definitely
start there. I haven't read the Tognar site for waxing info, but I bet
they say all the important stuff like "turn the iron down if it makes the
wax smoke".

If and when you decide to start working with edges, by all means do *not*
touch the edges on a nice deck until you've had some practice on an old rock
board. lonerider's words "recipe for disaster" are probably a bit strong
but his point should not be taken lightly. Edge and base work does
require some learning and it's best to do that learning on something other
than your brand new ride.

Mike T





 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Steel edge question Nevalainen, Eric Nordic Skiing 4 December 17th 04 08:08 PM
Steel edge question Bruce W.1 Nordic Skiing 5 December 17th 04 02:12 AM
ride flat, without an edge. =JT= Snowboarding 28 February 17th 04 05:28 PM
toes sticking out over board edge Rick Spencer Snowboarding 3 January 2nd 04 10:51 PM
LF waxes JD Nordic Skiing 4 December 7th 03 05:59 PM


All times are GMT. The time now is 11:09 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 SkiBanter.
The comments are property of their posters.