AT combinations/Backcountry Skiing in Newfoundland

Gary, you're always good for a quote...I'm gonna use that one now that it's
in the public domain, K?
:-)
Vinnie

"Gary S." Idontwantspam@net wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Sep 2003 15:41:51 +0000 (UTC),
bbense+rec.skiing.backcountry.Sep.23.03@telemark. slac.stanford.edu
wrote:

_ As far as I know the only non-sticky skins you can get are the
Voile Snake skins which I would not reccomend for anything but
straight up and down yo-yo skiing.

_ The PAM thing still makes no sense to me. Do they spray it on
the P-Tex base or on the knap side of the skins?

I have used skin wax on the fuzzy side, to keep our New England
"powder" from sticking to them, especially helpful with wet, goopy
snow, or certain temp ranges where refreezing is an issue.

I have heard of people using spray silicon for really wet conditions,
also on the fuzzy side, but overspray is a concern.

Not sure is making your gear smell like food is really wise.

Happy trails,
Gary (net.yogi.bear)
------------------------------------------------
at the 51st percentile of ursine intelligence

Gary D. Schwartz, Needham, MA, USA
Please reply to: garyDOTschwartzATpoboxDOTcom

Chris Webster wrote in message ...
Sooner or later, everybody I've skied with that uses sticky skins shows up
with a can of "PAM" to spray on their bases before or during the outing.
Not sure "what the $#@%$@# " it is supposed to do for you, but there it
is...big as life, taking up space in their packs, maybe it's a Colorado
thing, that dry snow can get kind downright sticky when conditions are just
so.


I don't know who you are skiing with, but in my ~15 years skiing in
Colorado exclusively with people with sticky skins, I've never seen a
can of Pam or anything of the sort....

--Chris

Just wanted to take a minute to thank the group for the fedback on my
posting. Number of things I'd like to say... we use Pam on our cross
country bindings and our dog's feet to prevent the dreaded ballup.
The dog loves it, but it slightly discolours white plastic ski parts.
I hear you loud and clear on the soft boots, seems they'd work best in
soft snow. Definitely intend to get a much fatter ski just to see
what they're like in good conditions. Not too worried about the
bindings as the weight difference is minimal for my needs. Like most
people, I've skiied on a lot of different stuff over the years. The
boots progressed from single leather, to double leather laceups, to
lace up inner with buckled outer, to leather lace up inner and plastic
outer. I even had a pair of Koflachs in the early 70's with steel
plates on the outside. The skis have changed from single piece wood
with lingstone edges requiring heated pine tar treatment,(and
Johnson's paste wax) to wooden skis with plastic bases and metal
edges, to 'metal' (Heads) and 'fiberglass' (VR17's). Bindings were
finicky for the longest time, and delayed release, or no release at
all, often caused grief to some body part or another until the early
ninties. I've never loved skiing more than I do today, and I've never
felt safer than on the rigs that I ski on now. I'm looking forward to
making the transition to AT gear as the BC skiing here is pretty good
for a small place. We've got the Avy gear, and done the Level I
course. In March, we're going to check out Chamonix with some friends
who are regulars there. I'd like to thank Vinnie for the Colorado
pics, they were truly awsome. I hope he found the ones from here a
bit different from what he's used to. Here's a website of a photo
diary by a skiier in the Chamonix area. Hope you like it...
http://www.philingle.com
Bob;-))

_ In the Sierra, this is pretty much an everyday issue and
I highly reccommend Ascension Gob Stopper wax.

And for waxless (fishscale) skiis?

Maxi-Glide

Hard wax often works well in the non-scaley sections.

--
The suespammers.org mail server is located in California. So are all my
other mailboxes. Please do not send unsolicited bulk e-mail or unsolicited
commercial e-mail to my suespammers.org address or any of my other addresses.
These are my opinions, not necessarily my employer's. I hate spam.

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In article ,
AES/newspost wrote:
In article ,
bbense+rec.skiing.backcountry.Sep.23.03@telemark. slac.stanford.edu
wrote:

_ In the Sierra, this is pretty much an everyday issue and
I highly reccommend Ascension Gob Stopper wax.


- - The Gob Stopper is for the skins, not the bases. You rub
in the nap of the skin.


And for waxless (fishscale) skiis?

_ I hot wax the whole base of the ski, both scales and not
scales. I use an all purpose wax like Hertel Hot Sauce. If you're
frugal with the wax[1], it doesn't take too much work with a
stiff nylon brush to get the excess wax off the scales. This
works pretty well with both postive and negative bases to improve
the glide of the ski. Most days in the Sierra you don't need
to be too anal about getting the excess wax off, that lovely
corn makes a fine wax remover....

_ Booker C. Bense

[1]- Most people apply way too much wax, you just need to get the
p-tex wet, wax should be IN the ski, not ON it. If it takes more
than a minute or two to scrape the ski you put too much wax on.
I wax my skis nearly every week and a single bar will last me
all season.

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Booker,
How do you apply the wax to fishscale such that you get coverage in the
right angle at the base of the grip edge of the scale?
Glop stopper works fine on East Coast as well.
Anyone have comments on the new, allegedly hydrophobic skins?
Nick Branch
bbense+rec.skiing.backcountry.Sep.24.03@telemark. slac.stanford.edu wrote
in message ...
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In article ,
AES/newspost wrote:
In article ,
bbense+rec.skiing.backcountry.Sep.23.03@telemark. slac.stanford.edu
wrote:

_ In the Sierra, this is pretty much an everyday issue and
I highly reccommend Ascension Gob Stopper wax.


- - The Gob Stopper is for the skins, not the bases. You rub
in the nap of the skin.


And for waxless (fishscale) skiis?

_ I hot wax the whole base of the ski, both scales and not
scales. I use an all purpose wax like Hertel Hot Sauce. If you're
frugal with the wax[1], it doesn't take too much work with a
stiff nylon brush to get the excess wax off the scales. This
works pretty well with both postive and negative bases to improve
the glide of the ski. Most days in the Sierra you don't need
to be too anal about getting the excess wax off, that lovely
corn makes a fine wax remover....

_ Booker C. Bense

[1]- Most people apply way too much wax, you just need to get the
p-tex wet, wax should be IN the ski, not ON it. If it takes more
than a minute or two to scrape the ski you put too much wax on.
I wax my skis nearly every week and a single bar will last me
all season.

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In article ,
"Nick Branch" wrote:

And for waxless (fishscale) skiis?

_ I hot wax the whole base of the ski, both scales and not
scales. I use an all purpose wax like Hertel Hot Sauce. If you're
frugal with the wax[1], it doesn't take too much work with a
stiff nylon brush to get the excess wax off the scales. This
works pretty well with both postive and negative bases to improve
the glide of the ski. Most days in the Sierra you don't need
to be too anal about getting the excess wax off, that lovely
corn makes a fine wax remover....

Hmmm -- I've been carrying a small plastic bottle of the expensive
fluorine-based liquid no-stick stuff, with sponge applicator under the
cap, that they sell at Alpenglow in TC and using it when things get
sticky.

Simple and seems to work, but I've no basis for comparing it to anything
else.

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In article ,
Nick Branch wrote:
Booker,
How do you apply the wax to fishscale such that you get coverage in the
right angle at the base of the grip edge of the scale?

_ I use an old electric iron and drip a little wax on the
ski ( roughly 1 drop every 2 inches ), I then use the iron
to spread this out as much as possible. It's important that
the iron not be too hot so you can keep it on the ski for
long enough to properly spread the wax. You don't have to
be super anal about this, some wax is MUCH MUCH better than
no wax. Again, it is very important that the iron is just
hot enough to melt the wax, not hot enough to deform the
p-tex.

_ As far as using wipe on stuff like NotWax and Maxi-glide
that works pretty well. However, I think waxing the scales
produces a faster ski, not because of the superior of wax
to wipe stuff, but because of the brushing required to get
the wax out. Brushing makes for a faster base...

Anyone have comments on the new, allegedly hydrophobic skins?

_ I have one set and they do seem to get much less wet to start
with but it wears off eventually. I still use gob stopper skin
wax on them. So I'd say get them if you're buying skins, but I
don't think they're better enough to justify getting new skins.

_ Booker C. Bense



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