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#21
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id no@id wrote in message ...
The P1MD should lock if you set them up right - they sort of snap into position. And you can give them a smack to make the fold down before getting on the lift. Ah... yes, that worked, I was kind of afraid to push too hard on my highback and breaking them... I'm a little confused at the "no screwdriver" bolts that control my highback rotation. I've flipped them out as I could see the hinges, but there are very difficult to rotate and I'm afraid of snapping off the plastic levers... looking more closely, I see the little blue spacer thing is already compressed and cracked on the back binding (from overtightening I suspect). Should I take a wrench to it? Hey, can I order those parts from Burton directly? Now, shouldn't you be developing software? And I better go find my wife :-) Well, I'm actually on holiday now for Thanksgiving. We are moving our entire company to a new headquarters and I had to pack up everything already. I do avoid checking the forums too much when work is busy, but... our system takes about 45 minutes for clean build and some test runs take up to an hour... so you are sitting there waiting anyways... some people go out for a smoke break. I occasionally jump online and see what's going on. |
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#22
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I could be wrong, because it would seem to me that with the K2 Cinch, if it was a sketchy situation like the one mentioned above, you could leave the highback up, and just strap in normally - using the convenient step-in feature for less intense situations. I mean that's why these bindings are supposedly "better" than the Flows. You're right. That fixes problem 1 Thats the exact advantage I see over "normal" strap bindings. Afterall its just an addition and not a must! Hopefully everything is durable enough, but only time will tell... Later, Saim |
#23
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Arvin Chang wrote:
id no@id wrote in message ... The P1MD should lock if you set them up right - they sort of snap into position. And you can give them a smack to make the fold down before getting on the lift. Ah... yes, that worked, I was kind of afraid to push too hard on my highback and breaking them... I'm a little confused at the "no screwdriver" bolts that control my highback rotation. I've flipped them out as I could see the hinges, but there are very difficult to rotate and I'm afraid of snapping off the plastic levers... looking more closely, I see the little blue spacer thing is already compressed and cracked on the back binding (from overtightening I suspect). Should I take a wrench to it? Hey, can I order those parts from Burton directly? I just fitted my warranty replacement highback to remind myself. On my bindings (2 years old) the lever is aluminium and the plastic washer/spacer is black. With the levers flipped out I've tightened them finger-tight, then folded them down. Seems secure. I got some spare assemblies from the dealer - they told me that it's easy to lose them if they're not tight enough. I have enough spares for both bindings (4 assemblies) and could send you a set if you get stuck - assuming they're the same. Hmm. Looking again at the bindings, the amount of plastic around independent forward lean pivot is a bit of a worry... Iain |
#24
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id wrote: Arvin Chang wrote: Hey, can I order those parts from Burton directly? I just fitted my warranty replacement highback to remind myself. On my bindings (2 years old) the lever is aluminium and the plastic washer/spacer is black. With the levers flipped out I've tightened them finger-tight, then folded them down. Seems secure. I got some spare assemblies from the dealer - they told me that it's easy to lose them if they're not tight enough. I have enough spares for both bindings (4 assemblies) and could send you a set if you get stuck - assuming they're the same. Hmm. Looking again at the bindings, the amount of plastic around independent forward lean pivot is a bit of a worry... Iain I called up Burton on Saturday and they are going to ship me a binding kit free of charge, so I should be good. I think the previous owner was a bit aggressive in tightening the levers and they caused the spacers to crack one of the bindings. I wonder if the binding kit comes with a spare set of highbacks - I did notice that Burton's warranty specifically covers highbacks damaged due to low chairlifts. I'm still not really a pro-Burton person, but I have to admit that was a nice touch (and to say that I was very satisfied with their customer support from my experience). I think the forward lean pivot (you mean the hinge in the middle of the Forward Lean ADjuster?) should hold mainly because it doesn't get strained very much when locked down (from what I see). --Arvin |
#25
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lonerider wrote:
I think the forward lean pivot (you mean the hinge in the middle of the Forward Lean ADjuster?) should hold mainly because it doesn't get strained very much when locked down (from what I see). No, I mean the pivots on either side that allow the highback to adjust to the forward lean setting without fiddling with the highback rotation (i.e. the levers etc. we're talking about) which was necessary on previous Burton binding incarnations. There's just not enough plastic around the metal pivots - in 2004/5 model they're replaced with flexible plastic rather than a pivot at all. Iain |
#26
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#27
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"toddjb" wrote highback for normal riding. That'd be nice. Cuz busted highbacks suck, and having to think about dropping it down all season long sux as well! This is no big deal. Just get the habit of kicking it down right at the moment when you're lined up and ready for the chair to slide in behind you. You have to turn and look back anyway. |
#28
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On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 07:34:20 GMT, "Dmitry"
allegedly wrote: "toddjb" wrote highback for normal riding. That'd be nice. Cuz busted highbacks suck, and having to think about dropping it down all season long sux as well! This is no big deal. Just get the habit of kicking it down right at the moment when you're lined up and ready for the chair to slide in behind you. You have to turn and look back anyway. Nice idea, but the Mission highbacks are locked into place, so you can't just kick them down. - Dave. -- The only powder to get high on, falls from the sky. http://www.vpas.org/ - Snowboarding the worlds pow pow - Securing your e-mail The Snowboard FAQ lives here - http://rssFAQ.org/ |
#29
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Dmitry wrote:
This is no big deal. Just get the habit of kicking it down right at the moment when you're lined up and ready for the chair to slide in behind you. You have to turn and look back anyway. yeah, I got in the habit of flipping mine down before / during the lift when I was learning anyway, now I do it almost instinctively. the reason, I would occassionally fall getting off the lift (or have some complete newb drag me down with them), and falling on your highback really hurts sometimes. especially in those "sensitive" areas. bri -- * enjoying the karma * remove LKJSDFJSD from address to email |
#30
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"Switters" wrote highback for normal riding. That'd be nice. Cuz busted highbacks suck, and having to think about dropping it down all season long sux as well! This is no big deal. Just get the habit of kicking it down right at the moment when you're lined up and ready for the chair to slide in behind you. You have to turn and look back anyway. Nice idea, but the Mission highbacks are locked into place, so you can't just kick them down. You don't have to lock them, right? If I recall correctly you can just leave the clamp hanging there and the highback will act just like the regular "kickable" one |
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