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#1
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Wax Question
What is the best way to wax my board? Hot wax or maybe just a rub on wax, I
heard graphite waxes are good? I need to find out what the best tune up procedure is. Thanks, Kevin |
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#2
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Wax Question
Den Sun, 30 Nov 2003 15:45:26 +0000, skrev Kevin:
What is the best way to wax my board? Hot wax or maybe just a rub on wax, I heard graphite waxes are good? I need to find out what the best tune up procedure is. The rub on stuff is best for temporary tuning, I'd recommend using hotwax as often as possible. I may be overkilling, but I almost always take the time to hotwax before I hit the slopes. Or the backcountry Ah, 10cm of fresh in Hemsedal... time to get the seasons first tracks real soon now -- Kenneth Rørvik Ostadalsveien 11 A, 0875 OSLO http://kenneth.rorvik.net |
#3
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Wax Question
Yup, look it up on the web. It's probably in the FAQ.
Get universal wax and iron it in. You can easily tell at the end of a day if you need to refresh it, just check the feel of the base. Graphite/ whavever: mostly ********, the biggest difference you'll see is between having a waxed board and one which isn't. |
#4
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Wax Question
One thing i have found to be a huge time save, as well as a wax saver, is
when you are hot waxing, rather then dripping the wax to the board and then ironing and scraping, take the stick of wax, and do a full rub on application you use way less wax, then once you have covered the board that way, iron it like you would normally do your hot wax, you are basically just melting the wax that is already in place on the board, makes the job super fast, and you have very little waste of wax when you scrape, the job is cleaner more complete coverage and you save your precious wax. especially if your using more expensive hot waxes. i have been using the drip on and iron method for a long time, always thought it was such a pain, this was super fast, and got the coverage that i always try to get with the drip on, but you always end up dripping on to much and wasting it when you scrape it all off again. Just a thought. works for me "phil" wrote in message ... Yup, look it up on the web. It's probably in the FAQ. Get universal wax and iron it in. You can easily tell at the end of a day if you need to refresh it, just check the feel of the base. Graphite/ whavever: mostly ********, the biggest difference you'll see is between having a waxed board and one which isn't. |
#5
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Wax Question
...and got the coverage that
i always try to get with the drip on.... I suspect that works better with certain bases and certain waxes. I've tried using this method and I've never been able to saturate the pores by simply "crayoning" it on except with very, very soft waxes. Although I do often use this method to mix waxes... crayon some cold-temp wax near the edges and then drip on the "correct" temp wax... it tends to mix nicely that way and the cold temp wax near the edges helps it wear off more evenly as opposed to wearing off at the edges first. |
#6
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Wax Question
I used to be meticulous with my waxing but now I use paste. It's not as
good as hot wax in certain conditions but paste makes it easy to expose the structure and works great in wet condition when you really need it. Swix and Toko paste are both good. "Mike T" wrote in message news ...and got the coverage that i always try to get with the drip on.... I suspect that works better with certain bases and certain waxes. I've tried using this method and I've never been able to saturate the pores by simply "crayoning" it on except with very, very soft waxes. Although I do often use this method to mix waxes... crayon some cold-temp wax near the edges and then drip on the "correct" temp wax... it tends to mix nicely that way and the cold temp wax near the edges helps it wear off more evenly as opposed to wearing off at the edges first. |
#7
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Wax Question
Thanks for all the advice everyone! Do you think I would notice much of a
difference between the hot wax and the paste wax? I am an intermediate rider making the transition from skiing .. "og" wrote in message ... I used to be meticulous with my waxing but now I use paste. It's not as good as hot wax in certain conditions but paste makes it easy to expose the structure and works great in wet condition when you really need it. Swix and Toko paste are both good. "Mike T" wrote in message news ...and got the coverage that i always try to get with the drip on.... I suspect that works better with certain bases and certain waxes. I've tried using this method and I've never been able to saturate the pores by simply "crayoning" it on except with very, very soft waxes. Although I do often use this method to mix waxes... crayon some cold-temp wax near the edges and then drip on the "correct" temp wax... it tends to mix nicely that way and the cold temp wax near the edges helps it wear off more evenly as opposed to wearing off at the edges first. |
#8
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Wax Question
A little advice on paste.. I like to start with a freshly tuned board that
has been hot waxed, thoroughly scraped, and brushed so the structure is open (very important). I find a board completely stripped and cleaned of all wax will not work as well with paste. The key to paste, and all wax for that matter, is to keep the base clean of dirt. I use glass cleaner or 409 spray before paste wax. After several applications of paste I'll use some lightweight wax remover to strip and also scrape. I don't use solvent wax remover because it makes for a lot more work restoring the wax. Dirt is your biggest enemy and that's another reason I like paste; it's easy to clean.. Nothing beats a good hot wax but a good hot wax is a lot of work. It takes time and sweat to properly scrape. IMO most hot wax jobs are not properly finished. Especially ones from a shop as they don't have the time to scrape and brush in wax as they should. Imo, paste is a better universal wax than hot wax but hot wax is a better temperature specific application. Waxing is an art and your results will vary.. "Kevin" wrote in message ... Thanks for all the advice everyone! Do you think I would notice much of a difference between the hot wax and the paste wax? I am an intermediate rider making the transition from skiing . "og" wrote in message ... I used to be meticulous with my waxing but now I use paste. It's not as good as hot wax in certain conditions but paste makes it easy to expose the structure and works great in wet condition when you really need it. Swix and Toko paste are both good. "Mike T" wrote in message news ...and got the coverage that i always try to get with the drip on.... I suspect that works better with certain bases and certain waxes. I've tried using this method and I've never been able to saturate the pores by simply "crayoning" it on except with very, very soft waxes. Although I do often use this method to mix waxes... crayon some cold-temp wax near the edges and then drip on the "correct" temp wax... it tends to mix nicely that way and the cold temp wax near the edges helps it wear off more evenly as opposed to wearing off at the edges first. |
#9
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Wax Question
Yep, this method also works best for me. I've tried the dripping method
once, cost me half a bar of wax, now I'm 3 jobs further and I still have some of the other halve left I don't even scrape the wax off anymore, I just buff it. The excess wax (and that's not much) is gone after one run. greetz, Cornelis "Marty" wrote in message ... One thing i have found to be a huge time save, as well as a wax saver, is when you are hot waxing, rather then dripping the wax to the board and then ironing and scraping, take the stick of wax, and do a full rub on application you use way less wax, then once you have covered the board that way, iron it like you would normally do your hot wax, you are basically just melting the wax that is already in place on the board, makes the job super fast, and you have very little waste of wax when you scrape, the job is cleaner more complete coverage and you save your precious wax. especially if your using more expensive hot waxes. i have been using the drip on and iron method for a long time, always thought it was such a pain, this was super fast, and got the coverage that i always try to get with the drip on, but you always end up dripping on to much and wasting it when you scrape it all off again. Just a thought. works for me "phil" wrote in message ... Yup, look it up on the web. It's probably in the FAQ. Get universal wax and iron it in. You can easily tell at the end of a day if you need to refresh it, just check the feel of the base. Graphite/ whavever: mostly ********, the biggest difference you'll see is between having a waxed board and one which isn't. |
#10
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Wax Question
"Marty" wrote in message ...
One thing i have found to be a huge time save, as well as a wax saver, is when you are hot waxing, rather then dripping the wax to the board and then ironing and scraping, take the stick of wax, and do a full rub on application you use way less wax, then once you have covered the board that way, iron it like you would normally do your hot wax, Interesting idea. Have to try it. The only question is, is the amount of wax you put on the base through rubbing enough to fill all the base pores? If it is, then I'm surprised this is not the "official" way of waxing. Or maybe it is, I never saw a shop do it; all the "wax-it-yourself" manuals I've seen mentioned the drip method. |
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