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#11
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Update on the rubber tips :
For ?7.99 I just got some Nordic Dragging poles at the supermarket, branded "ABBEY". **They came with 2 sets of rubber tips!** A louzy ?7.99, while weeks ago at the outdoor shop I paid ?8.50 for a **single** set of seemingly identical tips, grrrr... Telescopic 140cm poles, with screw-on baskets for soft soil, standard round hard tips to slide the rubber ones over. Very comfy straps, smart strap adjuster. All for ?7.99. If someone wants 2 sets of rubber tips, I'll find a use for the poles (Nordic Tent?) and send you the tips for ?8 + some stamps. Or one set of tips for...we''ll work something out. Not spam, just trying to help. If you ask nicely I'll ship the whole poles, not sure how good a deal this is. $26 on eBay UK : http://cgi.ebay.com/Original-NORDIC-...0QQitemZ878753 6928QQcategoryZ23809QQcmdZViewItem I have the silver ones. Packaging says "14/16mm diameter". If that's too big, some tape does the trick, is my experience. Anyways, if you're jealous of my deals I'll go to the supermarket again. Should I stock up? Happy trails, J "Jan Gerrit Klok" schreef in bericht ... I'm no expert, just that the rubber tips for me are sooo smooth. Just useless if there's dirt or gravel on the road. But as I wrote somewhere here before, there are cases where carbide and rubber are combines. Rubber for touchdown, carbide for traction. It SEEMS like if I just stich the rubber tips I'v got over carbide ones, I might have just that. Won't wreck these doingso before they're worn out though. My rubber tips were way the wrong diameter, so I shimmed them with some tape around the pole. Might ruin some of my traction as the tip sort of moves, but I'm good most of the time anyway. I've found that if I lack traction, it helps to plant the poles slightly differently and use the bending of the alu poles to not let the tips slide away, remain more vertical. "Chris Crawford" schreef in bericht ups.com... Instead of worrying about Al vs. CF, I would take a look at the transmission of forces at other areas. A couple of recent messages have mentioned rubber tips. If they exist and fit your poles these could greatly reduce the high frequency vibrations as well as take care of traction problems. Even if they wear out quickly I would try these if I could find something to fit my poles. The second area you might want to look at is the strap. Force is applied via the strap onto the hand (assuming you are not really gripping the handle too much). More or less elasticicity in the strap webbing and/or padding in the hand area and gloves would act as a shock absorber for the higher impulse shocks of the tip hitting the road. In sum - go with rubber tips and wear a glove with some sort of extra padding under the area loaded by the strap. Regards, Chris |
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#12
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On Tue, 11 Apr 2006 16:05:47 GMT, "ellis" wrote:
It maybe a generalization, but certainly not a misconception. Aluminum by nature is less forgiving than say, steel. Having had many bikes, including Easton and Kinesis aluminum, Reynolds steel, metal matrix and various flavors of titanium, I can only speak from experience, and how numb my ass gets from a four hour xc ride on an aluminum rig, whereas less so on steel, carbon fiber or ti. I think you're imagining it or the different sounds some bikes make is making you think it's different. The main frame of a bike is a truss vertically, and can't possible flex vertically more than a fraction of a millimeter, which is masked by the vastly larger amount of flex in the saddle, tires, handlebars and possibly forks, seatposts and stems. JFT **************************** Remove "remove" to reply Visit http://www.jt10000.com **************************** |
#13
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Packaging says "14/16mm diameter". If that's too big, some tape does the
trick, is my experience. Correction, the tip part is obviously thinner, around 11-13mm or so. |
#14
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Wheels - the Pro-Ski S3, Eplex F1, and Ski Skett Shark all use 100mm x
22mm solid rubber wheels. See a review of both skis (and the V2 100's) at http://www.nordicskiracer.com/Equipm...Rollerskis.asp. I've skied all of them (and the V2) and there are more similarities than differences. Several skiers have complained that the V2 100 wheels wore way too fast. Glad they were taken off the market. Mike |
#15
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Akers used to sell an aluminum rollerski pole that had a gentle bend in
it, so that it would give a bit when planted. Never tried 'em and haven,t seen them en their catalogues for a while. I've also read somewhere, maybe on this site, about poles with shock absorbers of some sort built in. I know Komperdell makes hiking poles like that. Randy |
#16
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ellis wrote:
"Travis" wrote in message oups.com... More like the Common MISCONCEPTION in cycling is that aluminum is stiff and harsh. Any material can be overbuilt and transmit road vibration to the rider. (Try riding some early carbon frames sometime if you want harshness.) This myth started mostly because of early overbuilt Cannondale frames. (Vitus frames from the 80's, on the other hand, were very wimpy.) Back on topic: The pole material is less important than the particular pole model. Poles are obviously made for snow usage and aren't made with roadshock dampening in mind. I find poles that are slightly soft for snow use work well on the road. Also a smooth "powerful yet consistant" pole plant is key when rollerskiing to avoid jarring the the arm joints. Funny how the Jenex site dosen't mention anything about the tire recall in it's latest "news update"...typical I'm afraid..... It maybe a generalization, but certainly not a misconception. Aluminum by nature is less forgiving than say, steel. Having had many bikes, including Easton and Kinesis aluminum, Reynolds steel, metal matrix and various flavors of titanium, I can only speak from experience, and how numb my ass gets from a four hour xc ride on an aluminum rig, whereas less so on steel, carbon fiber or ti. We're taking this thread completely off topic here...but you're both correct and incorrect. The problem, as I tried to explain in my post, is that it is easier to make steel or Ti frames that are better, smoother, less jarring, whatever...than it is with Aluminum. Go test ride a current model year top end Cannondale aluminum frame and compare it to any other frame material with both bikes having the same wheels and tires inflated up to the same pressure and you will be hard pressed to tell the "inherent" differences in frame material. Carbon has NO "inherent" properties whatsoever as far as ride is concerned it is whatever you make it...smooth or stiffer than crap. I've been a shop rat for over ten years working both ends of the floor (sales and repair) and I can tell you that any material can be minipulated in any way. (The reason steel isn't harsh is because to build a harsh riding steel frame it would weigh 10 pounds...in contrast to aluminum where an overbuilt frame can weigh "only" 3.4 pounds.) Back ON Topic: Two more "News" updates at Jenex's site and still not a peep about the tires. Sad really. As for slightly curved poles "softening" road shock, I can tell that I notice it on a pole that I bent accidentally and then bent back, but obviously not back to perfectly straight. That pole flexes ever so slightly and I can feel the difference. |
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