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Binding Reccomendations



 
 
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  #11  
Old February 23rd 05, 12:14 AM
lonerider
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Jay wrote:
"lonerider" wrote in message
The Burton P1MDs are my current bindings (I just sold my Cateks to
Mike!) and they are a nice blend of dampened smooth riding with

decent
responsiveness - unfortunately they cost $270 retail - but I got

mine
on Ebay for $80 (with a Burton Fish that I wanted to try out).

Burton
makes you pay a premium for their brand name, and while their high

end
stuff is usually decent... it's the lower end stuff that I would

shy
away from - so I'm not a big Burton fan in general.


Yep, the P1s are good. They have this system where you can move the

strap
position without taking the bindings off the board which is actually

quite
useful. (forward setting for jumps and rails, rear setting for

cruising).

One thing to watch though is that the straps are non-standard and

most shops
don't stock them so could be a good idea to get a spare set.


Wait, how do you adjust the straps without taking the bindings off the
board? From my fiddling with it (I don't have the instruction booklet),
I could only seem to move the straps when I lifted the binding off the
board. I'm a little confused by how the toeramp adjustment works (I
have small feet so I just moved it "in" the most assuming you'd only
want a longer base for bigger feet). What else can I adjust (I've
rotated highbacks and increased forward lean).

Thanks

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  #12  
Old February 23rd 05, 08:14 AM
Andy Sandford
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"bri719" wrote in message
...
Andy Sandford wrote:

I've used Loctite on all the hardware and nothing has loosened so far...

I
actually put Loctite on the kingpin first time 'round - DO NOT DO THIS!

It
took a LOT of effort to disassemble it and I was very lucky to manage it

at
all...

Off to Les Deux Alpes next weekend to try them out on some real snow -

can't
wait!!




have fun Andy.....oh, and ease up on the LT will ya :-)

I laugh when I see people with all the hardware on everything they own
looking like they painted it blue. not good! LOL

bri






--

* enjoying the karma *
remove LKJSDFJSD from address to email



Message understood!... I didn't put THAT much on! ;o))


  #13  
Old February 27th 05, 09:28 PM
Jay
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"lonerider" wrote in message
oups.com...

Jay wrote:
"lonerider" wrote in message
The Burton P1MDs are my current bindings (I just sold my Cateks to
Mike!) and they are a nice blend of dampened smooth riding with

decent
responsiveness - unfortunately they cost $270 retail - but I got

mine
on Ebay for $80 (with a Burton Fish that I wanted to try out).

Burton
makes you pay a premium for their brand name, and while their high

end
stuff is usually decent... it's the lower end stuff that I would

shy
away from - so I'm not a big Burton fan in general.


Yep, the P1s are good. They have this system where you can move the

strap
position without taking the bindings off the board which is actually

quite
useful. (forward setting for jumps and rails, rear setting for

cruising).

One thing to watch though is that the straps are non-standard and

most shops
don't stock them so could be a good idea to get a spare set.


Wait, how do you adjust the straps without taking the bindings off the
board? From my fiddling with it (I don't have the instruction booklet),
I could only seem to move the straps when I lifted the binding off the
board. I'm a little confused by how the toeramp adjustment works (I
have small feet so I just moved it "in" the most assuming you'd only
want a longer base for bigger feet). What else can I adjust (I've
rotated highbacks and increased forward lean).

Thanks


Hope I'm talking about the same thing here. I've got the p1mds from a couple
of years ago. The straps don't have holes in the ends. Instead they have a
short plastic lug that fits in the slots in the base. The rear strap can be
moved to any of 3 positions (I think the recent models have a 4th so you can
remove the strap) and the front strap has 2 positions. It's quite tricky to
move them, you need to wrestle with them a bit but they will move. Getting
the rear straps to the middle position is an art because they tend to
overshoot (but the middle position is pretty much useless, IMHO :-)

Basically to move the straps you need to push them down and keep the strap
vertical while you push it backwards or forwards.

I can't remember if you can change the toeramp without removing the
bindings. I tried it in a couple of positions and couldn't tell any
difference so I left it at position 1 so it comes close to the end of the
boot. I lost one once so be careful to make sure it's fully secure if you
change it (fortunately some kind soul found it and handed it in. Thanks
whoever you are).

Jay.






 




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