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glide "cold" wax question



 
 
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  #11  
Old January 17th 08, 10:52 PM posted to rec.skiing.nordic
John Forrest Tomlinson
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Posts: 447
Default glide "cold" wax question

On Thu, 17 Jan 2008 18:47:37 -0500, John Forrest Tomlinson
wrote:

Some good info on cold weather waxing is he
http://www.skiwax.ca/index_tp.php


More specifically

http://www.skiwax.ca/tp/coldglide.php

Plus same article from Ian Harvey of Toko in Master Skier:

http://www.tokous.com/PDF/Articles/W...Conditions.pdf
http://www.skinnyskis.com/article.aspx?id=10001
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  #12  
Old January 17th 08, 11:50 PM posted to rec.skiing.nordic
[email protected]
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Default glide "cold" wax question

Based on an email exchange some years ago, I think Noel really did mean
hot scrape; he even talked about wiping wax off. In any case, with an
appropriately heated iron it shouldn't be necessary, except for cleaning
the groove.

RM

wrote:

Noel Charonnat's article on applying MAP Black has a lot of ideas
applicable to applying cold waxes:
http://www.fwpages.com/home/index.ph..._selection=735

Start with warm (room temp) skis.
Use a soft "base" wax that penetrates the base.

When Noel suggest scrapping warm, my interpretation is warm as opposed
to hot. But then as Toko (Ian) says, a properly ironed cold wax
should not chip.

  #13  
Old January 18th 08, 03:18 PM posted to rec.skiing.nordic
cross country
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Default glide "cold" wax question



More specifically

http://www.skiwax.ca/tp/coldglide.php

Though the rest of the recommendations are alright, I would
strenuously avoid the suggestion given in the above link to use a
brass roto brush. Ouch, sounds a bit harsh! You really can over
brush. I remember the first cold full distance city of lakes loppet.
A buddy had some decently waxed skis, but since holmenkollen was there
offering, he let them brush his skis some more with the thought that
in those single digits fahrenheit, it couldn't hurt. It did. The
tech used a STEEL hand brush. You can easily pull too much wax out of
a ski using a roto brush. (or with metal, raise some hairs)

In that race, I was skiing with guys I have never been with before
because my skis were really fast: High kilometer, factory grind
atomics with one layer of start green. A dedicated cold ski, so no
underlayers of warm wax needed to be purged. And yes, scrape warm,
not molten, and brush with copper, polish with nylon. Remember,
proper camber and structure are said to be more important for speed
than wax choice (with in limits, of course) . . .

Jim
 




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