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#1
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Newbie need help - binding screw spacing on old board
One of my kids has been happily using an old Morrow board but one of
the bindings has broken. I had a spare set of bindings but when I went to mount them, the screws don't match up. The broken bindings used a 4-screw pattern but the rows of screws seem to be too far apart for the new bindings. The board has two rows of screw holes about 8cm or 3-1/8 inch apart and the holes in each row are about 2.5cm or 1 inch apart. Is there a way for me to mount a binding, or buy a binding that fits, or should I just throw the board away? Thanks, Dan |
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#2
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Morrow had their own goofy insert pattern like in '92 or something,
don't know if your old board is quite that old. You can just redrill new holes in your baseplate, if you're not going to launch off big jumps or sky the pipe sides. |
#3
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Thanks LeeD,
The problem is the threaded inserts in the old board are too far apart for the base plate so drilling the baseplate wouldn't work. Maybe I need new threaded inserts in the board. I don't know if this is a reasonable thing to do ... drill and install new threaded inserts in the board. Any thoughts? Maybe I am just spinning my gears and wasting time. Dan |
#4
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Dan wrote:
Is there a way for me to mount a binding, or buy a binding that fits, or should I just throw the board away? I think you have an older board with a proprietary binding pattern. You could scour e-bay for an old set of Morrow bindings, try posting a wanted ad at bomberonline (the people there are equipment nuts and have a surprising bunch of stuff in their closets) or alternately you could make a transition baseplate. Get a piece of metal, drill holes to match the board and holes to match the new bindings, mount the bindings to the plate and the plate to the board. Or just chuck the old Morrow and buy something newer. You could probably get a decent used board for your kid with a modern 4X4 binding pattern for fairly cheap. Neil |
#5
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Thanks Neil-
I had thought of making an adapter plate. 1/4 inch aluminum maybe but steel would be better for holding the screws. Seems like it would get heavy. I guess will look for another board rather than waste time and money on old junk. Dan |
#6
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Just drill thru your bindings with the center plate attached, if
don't matter. Only you gots to set the stance for toe and heel drag is OK, and it's not really adjustable. Crap old board, it don't matter. Don't make it more complicated than it is. Old boards, had holes near sidewalls, and everyone just drilled holes in the bindings to match. |
#7
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LeeD wrote:
Old boards, had holes near sidewalls, and everyone just drilled holes in the bindings to match. I never heard of that. "Everyone" just used the bindings that came with the board, which would match the manufacturer's proprietary pattern. Some boards were had no inserts, instead they had a mount plate under the topsheet and attach with screws just like ski bindings. Old Avalanches were like that. It was quite common to drill right through the board and attach bindings with T-nuts if the inserts weren't where you wanted them of if they had pulled out. This was really popular for a while when the jib crew went to super-wide stances. So the OP could do that if he wanted but I would be a bit worried about whether the board structure would support being drilled in a tight pattern to support a modern 4X4 plate. Neil |
#8
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Some peeps would think it's smarter to drill holes in the bindings
rather than thru the whole board and then adding T nut inserts. Whatever floats your boat..... When you add new holes in the bindings, you need to use washers, and usually a few more inserts than just 4. |
#9
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LeeD wrote:
Some peeps would think it's smarter to drill holes in the bindings rather than thru the whole board and then adding T nut inserts. Whatever floats your boat..... When you add new holes in the bindings, you need to use washers, and usually a few more inserts than just 4. Sounds to me that the bindings could be salvaged but the board should be ditched. I'd be more inclined to get a new budget board and not risk destroying the bindings. |
#10
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Tough call there .....
You could get a new board that works decently with tuning for $150. You could buy some on sale BurtonFreestyle bindings for $80........ When I started boarding in '93, the old Burtons pre 3D were still around, as were the multi inserts around the rails, the Morrow pattern, some HotPlus custom patterns, and we just drilled the bindings to work on all of them. Never had any problems. Even the Avalance style with the metal plate near the sidewalls, we just drilled some holes and filled with Elmers....... Those days, compatability was something for the future....we just improvised, and it worked just fine.... |
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