wax layers

This year I am waxing for junior racers for the first time. Most races
are very short, 5k or so. If it is a pure fluro day they seem to
always be applied using hand or roto cork. That is the background now
two questions, If it is a topcoat day is there any advantage to a HF
underlayer versus a LF underlayer. ( the races are so short I don't
think you could ski down to the under layer) Also do classic racers
topcoat differently in races due to the quickly glazed conditions found
in the track? Is there one "best" pure fluro topcoat that is more
predictable in the track? Thanks for the help

If it is a topcoat day is there any advantage to a HF
underlayer versus a LF underlayer. ( the races are so short I don't
think you could ski down to the under layer)

I too wax for juniors, although I'm hardly an expert. If the conditions are
really wet or for important races (JO qualifier, etc.), I'll use HF
underlayer. For regular season races, I usually go with the LF underlayer
for the reason you state.

Also do classic racers
topcoat differently in races due to the quickly glazed conditions found
in the track?

Same topcoat - solid pure fluoro, corked or rotocorked in, brushed, and
polished. I don't recall ever having conditions in which there would be a
significant difference between topcoats. If the tracks are glazing, it's
generally warm(ish) and high humidity, and around here (central NY), the
pure fluoro topcoat works well both in and out of the tracks. By far, it's
the kick wax that makes the significant difference (and can be tricky to get
right).

Is there one "best" pure fluro topcoat that is more
predictable in the track?
Not in my experience; I use Solda or Toko. Both give fast skis.

Todd

wrote:
This year I am waxing for junior racers for the first time. Most races
are very short, 5k or so. If it is a pure fluro day they seem to
always be applied using hand or roto cork. That is the background now
two questions, If it is a topcoat day is there any advantage to a HF
underlayer versus a LF underlayer. ( the races are so short I don't
think you could ski down to the under layer)

Talking about glide hot waxing, I don't think there are such things as
"layers".
When you iron, everything will melt.

So, there's
- What's inside the base (properly brushed)
- The final coating.

If what's inside the base contains too much fluoros, then the final
coating won't stick on it.
Thanks to Jay Wenner for publishing interesting infos at
http://www.cbs.umn.edu/~wenner/

Laurent.