Burton File Guide kit

I wanted to buy a Burton file guide kit but I noticed that it' is for
90°-95° angle.
I looked at some other models from Toko... and they are from 86°-90° angle.
Why is only the burton file guide kit for 90°-95° angle and the others are
for 86°-90°.
What angles do I really need? I have a Nitro Atlas, and a few older boards
that need filing.

Andrej wrote:

I wanted to buy a Burton file guide kit but I noticed that it' is for
90°-95° angle.
I looked at some other models from Toko... and they are from 86°-90° angle.
Why is only the burton file guide kit for 90°-95° angle and the others are
for 86°-90°.
What angles do I really need? I have a Nitro Atlas, and a few older boards
that need filing.





I think the difference is how you look at the angle. 90 - 95 may mean
\
\
\
___________| The edge on this line is 90 deg.


\
\
\
____________\ The edge on this line is (lets just say) 85 deg or 95
deg. It's just 5 deg off from perpendicular.

I wanted to buy a Burton file guide kit but I noticed that it' is for
90°-95° angle.
I looked at some other models from Toko... and they are from 86°-90°
angle.
Why is only the burton file guide kit for 90°-95° angle and the others
are for 86°-90°.
What angles do I really need? I have a Nitro Atlas, and a few older boards
that need filing.

It's only the terminology that is different.


\
\
\
T \ B
_____________\

Imagine the above diagram is your edge. Burton is quoting you the angles
shown by "B" and Toko is quoting you the angles shown by "T". In other
words, Burton's 92 is the same as Toko's 88.

Which angles you need depends on what type of riding you do. The default
these days seems to be a 1 degree side bevel (so that's 89 or 91, depending
on the manufacturer) and a 1 degree base edge bevel. That leaves you with
a 90 degree edge, but is less prone to catcging an edge than 0/0.

If you are primarily interested in carving, you may want more side edge
bevel. This will give your edges more bite but at the expense of not being
able to do as many tunes over the life of your board.

Mike T

Mike T wrote:

I wanted to buy a Burton file guide kit but I noticed that it' is for
90°-95° angle.
I looked at some other models from Toko... and they are from 86°-90°
angle.
Why is only the burton file guide kit for 90°-95° angle and the others
are for 86°-90°.
What angles do I really need? I have a Nitro Atlas, and a few older boards
that need filing.


It's only the terminology that is different.


\
\
\
T \ B
_____________\

Imagine the above diagram is your edge. Burton is quoting you the angles
shown by "B" and Toko is quoting you the angles shown by "T". In other
words, Burton's 92 is the same as Toko's 88.

And FK tuners are sensibly marked as 0 to 5 degrees in half degree
increments. This would be the angle from vertical in the diagram above.

It's all the same, more or less.

--
//-Walt
//
// There is no Völkl Conspiracy

Thanks.
So basically it's the same thing.
I think that I'll be using only the 90° angle for now.

Andrej wrote:
Thanks.
So basically it's the same thing.

yup.

I think that I'll be using only the 90° angle for now.

The general consensus is that a 1 or 2 degree bevel on the base is more
forgiving. With a 90 (or zero) degree angle you're more likely to catch
an edge.

My advice would be to find out what the edge angles are now and keep
them there. Think of it as sharpening, rather than changing what you
have. If you currently have, say, a 2 degree edge and a 2 degree side,
you'll have to remove a lot of steel to change it to 0 & 0. And if you
don't like the results, you'll have to remove even more to go back.

If you had your board(s) tuned at a shop, they can probably tell you
what they did. Or you can look up the factory tunes and start there.

--
//-Walt
//
// There is no Völkl Conspiracy

www.tognar.com
www.edgetune.com

Regarding bevel, the tognar site will explain it in detail. Most skis and boards come with a preset bevel of different proportions for base and edge angles. Snowboards may be less prone to bevel angles (or lack there of) depending on the kind of board (freestyle, or low end) versus a carving boards or high end boards. The manufacturer site may have some advise on bevel angles out of the gate.

the skivision tuner is really nice, does both base and side tuning at the same time and has stone selection along with file selection for maximum use of the tool. I like it. When it is icy, I will put a bevel of a degree or 1.5 degrees on the edge (not base) and this gives more bite. I wouldn't worry about life of the board versus 90' angle tuning, It is more common for people to do too many base grinds (you should only do 1 per year, and maybe 6 per life of the board) versus too much bevel tuning. I used to change bevel all the time when I was learning how to do it back at Sunday River in Maine where it was always pretty icy and fast. I would break the board or just plain outgrow it before I noticed any issues on the rail quality.

Good luck

bk

I ment I will keep the edges like they made it in the factory, since I was
boarding only 2 days with this board. It's a very stiff board (Notro Atlas)
and I'm afraid that if I mess with the factory bevel I'll hurt myself.

I think that I'll be using only the 90° angle for now.

The general consensus is that a 1 or 2 degree bevel on the base is more
forgiving. With a 90 (or zero) degree angle you're more likely to catch
an edge.

Great discussions. I didn't know very much and just bought a Dakine tuner
that has only 89 and 90 degrees edges. From what I read this should
probably be alright and that I might want to stick with the 89 degree edge
for my boards. The big question I have stems from points made by others.
What should I do about the current bevel on my board? I don't know what it
is and don't know what harm or good could come of changing it to something
else. I was planning on following the guide on the Dakine package for icy
conditions although at the moment I cannot recall what those are.

Should I return the edger for a different one with more flexibility for
setting the angle?

Cheers,
Scott

Originally Posted by Scott Lindner

Great discussions. I didn't know very much and just bought a Dakine tuner
that has only 89 and 90 degrees edges. From what I read this should
probably be alright and that I might want to stick with the 89 degree edge
for my boards. The big question I have stems from points made by others.
What should I do about the current bevel on my board? I don't know what it
is and don't know what harm or good could come of changing it to something
else. I was planning on following the guide on the Dakine package for icy
conditions although at the moment I cannot recall what those are.

Should I return the edger for a different one with more flexibility for
setting the angle?

Scott

wouldn't worry about "damaging" the edges by changing the bevel from factory to match your conditions (i.e. icy conditions etc). I have done many things with many boards and skis alike and have come out okay. You can stay "factory" on your bevel, but you will need to know what that is (call or email or look at the factory website). you will need to get the bevel for both the base and side edges to make sure you are staying stock. Frankly, stock is stock, it is set for general conditions and may not work as well in your particular conditions (icy, powder etc). Its great to experiment and you will likely kill the board before you killyour edges (likely, not a promise). I go through boards often, one every year or two. Mostly because I want more from the board, or I have worn it down and the flex isnt like it was when I bought it (getting soft). then it becomes the backup board for crappy conditions or guests.

Andrej, I do not know Norto, so I cannot comment on the stiffness. As mentioned, you will need to know the bevel factory settings before you can determine if you want to use that setting for your tuning purposes. I would tune to the local conditions. That is what the professionals do. Sadly most recreational skiers and riders do not tune their equipment at all or only once a season, so anything you will do will dramatically help you over doing nothing at all.
Don't forget to detune a bit of tip and tail on the rails. this will help you from "hurting yourself" regardless of your bevel angles (i.e. catching a rail).

bk