Ski Servicing

Does anyone service their own skiis here?

If so, where is the best/cheapest place to buy equipment online in the UK?

I need a new edge file, some base repair products and I might possibly treat
myself to a propper wax iron instead of using the old clothes iron I
currently use.

Paul

On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 15:38:18 -0000, "Paul \( Skiing8 \)"
wrote:

Does anyone service their own skiis here?

I've been know to, but generally only when there's a repair to be
done. Pitex application is one of those things that's better done
manually, rather than by machine, and is not difficult. For normal
edge&wax servicing I try and throw it into a friendly shop in resort
when I'm repping, which has the added advantage of often not costing
me anything, so may influence my decisionsomewhat :-)

If so, where is the best/cheapest place to buy equipment online in the UK?

I got most of mine at Snow&Rock, who always seemed to have a good
supply of various models.

I need a new edge file, some base repair products and I might possibly treat
myself to a propper wax iron instead of using the old clothes iron I
currently use.

They should certainly have that lot, although I have to say I've never
managed to get edges as sharp as a shop machine-service does. For
waxing I use an old 'travel' iron, which does the job perfectly,
although I have to let it re-heat for a few seconds between strokes,
IYSWIM. A blowtorch is also useful for base repairs, but should be
used with caution, as overheating can easily lead to base
de-lamination.

--
Ace (brucedotrogers a.t rochedotcom)
Ski Club of Great Britain - http://www.skiclub.co.uk
All opinions expressed are personal and in no way represent those of the Ski Club.

"Ace" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 15:38:18 -0000, "Paul \( Skiing8 \)"
wrote:

Does anyone service their own skiis here?

I've been know to, but generally only when there's a repair to be
done. Pitex application is one of those things that's better done
manually, rather than by machine, and is not difficult. For normal
edge&wax servicing I try and throw it into a friendly shop in resort
when I'm repping, which has the added advantage of often not costing
me anything, so may influence my decisionsomewhat :-)


I am pretty good at P-tex'ing except for deep or near edge fills, the normal
repair candles cannot hold that well and I need some strips or higher
density sticks. Unfortunatly when skiing its a hit or miss if I find the
right shop and don't get ripped off.

If so, where is the best/cheapest place to buy equipment online in the
UK?

I got most of mine at Snow&Rock, who always seemed to have a good
supply of various models.


Thats where I usually get all my gear.


I need a new edge file, some base repair products and I might possibly
treat
myself to a propper wax iron instead of using the old clothes iron I
currently use.

They should certainly have that lot, although I have to say I've never
managed to get edges as sharp as a shop machine-service does. For
waxing I use an old 'travel' iron, which does the job perfectly,
although I have to let it re-heat for a few seconds between strokes,
IYSWIM. A blowtorch is also useful for base repairs, but should be
used with caution, as overheating can easily lead to base
de-lamination.


I find the opposit, the machine ground job is not as good as what I can do.
I once tried a travel iron, bought for a bargain price of £8.... didn't work
too well, At a temperature where the wax did not burn I found that it would
only do about 6 inches before it cooled down too much. Maybe I need a
slightly better travel iron

Paul

On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 16:26:14 -0000, "Paul \( Skiing8 \)"
wrote:

"Ace" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 15:38:18 -0000, "Paul \( Skiing8 \)"
wrote:

I need a new edge file, some base repair products and I might possibly
treat
myself to a propper wax iron instead of using the old clothes iron I
currently use.

They should certainly have that lot, although I have to say I've never
managed to get edges as sharp as a shop machine-service does. For
waxing I use an old 'travel' iron, which does the job perfectly,
although I have to let it re-heat for a few seconds between strokes,
IYSWIM. A blowtorch is also useful for base repairs, but should be
used with caution, as overheating can easily lead to base
de-lamination.


I find the opposit, the machine ground job is not as good as what I can do.

Really? On the edges? I've done 'em with a couple of different
file-guide thingies, but never seem to get them really sharp. TBH
though, I'm not that bothered - I tend to just deburr the edges
freehand with a rough file or stone and then file them until they're
smooth with the proper tool.

I once tried a travel iron, bought for a bargain price of £8.... didn't work
too well, At a temperature where the wax did not burn I found that it would
only do about 6 inches before it cooled down too much.

Well yeah, but it heats up again pretty quick, so what's the problem?
In a hurry, are we?

--
Ace (brucedotrogers a.t rochedotcom)
Ski Club of Great Britain - http://www.skiclub.co.uk
All opinions expressed are personal and in no way represent those of the Ski Club.

"Ace" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 16:26:14 -0000, "Paul \( Skiing8 \)"
wrote:

"Ace" wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 15:38:18 -0000, "Paul \( Skiing8 \)"
wrote:

I need a new edge file, some base repair products and I might possibly
treat
myself to a propper wax iron instead of using the old clothes iron I
currently use.

They should certainly have that lot, although I have to say I've never
managed to get edges as sharp as a shop machine-service does. For
waxing I use an old 'travel' iron, which does the job perfectly,
although I have to let it re-heat for a few seconds between strokes,
IYSWIM. A blowtorch is also useful for base repairs, but should be
used with caution, as overheating can easily lead to base
de-lamination.


I find the opposit, the machine ground job is not as good as what I can
do.

Really? On the edges? I've done 'em with a couple of different
file-guide thingies, but never seem to get them really sharp. TBH
though, I'm not that bothered - I tend to just deburr the edges
freehand with a rough file or stone and then file them until they're
smooth with the proper tool.


It took me a long time but I finally figured out how to do it, I run the
rough file over the base first then followed by a fine file, then using a 90
deg file holder and one of those cresent shaped files I run it along the
edge, the file must be really sharp and you only run it in the direction of
the cut of the file. When I do this I can run it down the length of the ski
and remove a shaving of metal that curls up into a little coil, the shaving
is really thin. Before I figured this out I was running the file up and down
rapidly and it blunted the file... no good. I got a diamond file recently
that I want to have a go with, many years ago I was tought by someone to
service skiis and they had a diamon file and I remember it did a good job.

I once tried a travel iron, bought for a bargain price of £8.... didn't
work
too well, At a temperature where the wax did not burn I found that it
would
only do about 6 inches before it cooled down too much.

Well yeah, but it heats up again pretty quick, so what's the problem?
In a hurry, are we?


The first time I tried, it took about 30 mins per ski to get a good wax job
done.... that times 4 skiis (gotta do the girlfriends too) is too much
time.... Usually when on the hols all the others in the group want a quick
wax job too.... when I have my old iron on the go you can line up all the
skiis and have them done in 10 mins, scrape em down and buff em up.... out
for a beer in no time!


--
Ace (brucedotrogers a.t rochedotcom)
Ski Club of Great Britain - http://www.skiclub.co.uk
All opinions expressed are personal and in no way represent those of the
Ski Club.

fwiw I'm with Ace on edge sharpness. I use ye olde pre-steam iron that
works fine and can probably be found in Oxfam or similiar for peanuts!

Paul ( Skiing8 ) wrote:
"Ace" wrote in message
...

On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 16:26:14 -0000, "Paul \( Skiing8 \)"
wrote:


"Ace" wrote in message
...

On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 15:38:18 -0000, "Paul \( Skiing8 \)"
wrote:

I need a new edge file, some base repair products and I might possibly

treat

myself to a propper wax iron instead of using the old clothes iron I
currently use.

They should certainly have that lot, although I have to say I've never
managed to get edges as sharp as a shop machine-service does. For
waxing I use an old 'travel' iron, which does the job perfectly,
although I have to let it re-heat for a few seconds between strokes,
IYSWIM. A blowtorch is also useful for base repairs, but should be
used with caution, as overheating can easily lead to base
de-lamination.


I find the opposit, the machine ground job is not as good as what I can

do.

Really? On the edges? I've done 'em with a couple of different
file-guide thingies, but never seem to get them really sharp. TBH
though, I'm not that bothered - I tend to just deburr the edges
freehand with a rough file or stone and then file them until they're
smooth with the proper tool.



It took me a long time but I finally figured out how to do it, I run the
rough file over the base first then followed by a fine file, then using a 90
deg file holder and one of those cresent shaped files I run it along the
edge, the file must be really sharp and you only run it in the direction of
the cut of the file. When I do this I can run it down the length of the ski
and remove a shaving of metal that curls up into a little coil, the shaving
is really thin. Before I figured this out I was running the file up and down
rapidly and it blunted the file... no good. I got a diamond file recently
that I want to have a go with, many years ago I was tought by someone to
service skiis and they had a diamon file and I remember it did a good job.


snip

After reading this thread:
http://www.extremecarving.com/forum/...ight=tooltonic
I bought a Tooltonic edge tool from www.tooltonic.com - just sent them
an email. They sent me the tool + a bill for 99 CHF - only in
Switzerland :-)

It is indeed very effective. Only does side edges though.

--
Neil Swingler

On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 18:06:18 -0000, "Paul \( Skiing8 \)"
wrote:

I once tried a travel iron, bought for a bargain price of £8.... didn't
work
too well, At a temperature where the wax did not burn I found that it
would
only do about 6 inches before it cooled down too much.

Well yeah, but it heats up again pretty quick, so what's the problem?
In a hurry, are we?


The first time I tried, it took about 30 mins per ski to get a good wax job
done....

Ahh, maybe your travel iron is even crappier than mine, or maybe
you're trying to do more with it. My objectiove with the hot wax is
that the entire surface of the base would have been warmed
sufficiently for wax to flow into any micro-fissures. Heating any more
than this will do nothing for the wax and may possibly damage the base
if taken to extremes.

Once I've done that, I'll generally smooth over with the iron, but
then remove the excess with a flat edge. I don't see any point in
trying to acheive a mirror finish, given that the first thing that's
going to happen to it in use is that it'll be in contact with nasty
sharp abrasive snow, which will quickly remove said finish.

Takes about five minutes per ski, tops.
--
Ace (brucedotrogers a.t rochedotcom)
Ski Club of Great Britain - http://www.skiclub.co.uk
All opinions expressed are personal and in no way represent those of the Ski Club.

£4.50 for an iron in Argos. They're steam irons but who cares?

--
kitemap
http://ugcc.co.uk

"Ace" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 18:06:18 -0000, "Paul \( Skiing8 \)"
wrote:

I once tried a travel iron, bought for a bargain price of £8....
didn't
work
too well, At a temperature where the wax did not burn I found that it
would
only do about 6 inches before it cooled down too much.

Well yeah, but it heats up again pretty quick, so what's the problem?
In a hurry, are we?


The first time I tried, it took about 30 mins per ski to get a good wax
job
done....

Ahh, maybe your travel iron is even crappier than mine, or maybe
you're trying to do more with it. My objectiove with the hot wax is
that the entire surface of the base would have been warmed
sufficiently for wax to flow into any micro-fissures. Heating any more
than this will do nothing for the wax and may possibly damage the base
if taken to extremes.

Once I've done that, I'll generally smooth over with the iron, but
then remove the excess with a flat edge. I don't see any point in
trying to acheive a mirror finish, given that the first thing that's
going to happen to it in use is that it'll be in contact with nasty
sharp abrasive snow, which will quickly remove said finish.

Takes about five minutes per ski, tops.
--
Ace (brucedotrogers a.t rochedotcom)
Ski Club of Great Britain - http://www.skiclub.co.uk
All opinions expressed are personal and in no way represent those of the
Ski Club.


Sounds like I got a bum deal on an iron.... will have to check Argos and see
what offerings they have!

As for the waxing I do the same... The ski base should fell warm to the
touch and when the iron is run over the top slowly there should be melted
wax on the ski that dries over in a couple of seconds. Same as you I scrape
the excess wax off..... if I have time I will buff to the mirror finish just
because I like to and it looks good and feels satisfying!!!

Paul