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#11
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Boots pinch front of ankle... Tall Rider
So I ended up getting a pair of DC shoe Radians (last one in the
store), but was originally looking for the Phantom3's. These particular boots have a liner with a pumpable air bladder above the ankle that helps keep you foot in place. "Sounds" like a good idea and for the most part it seems to work so far. I didn't really get bothered by heel lift while riding. It's a little weird at first because you can pull your heel up a little while just standing still, but bend your knees and the crease of the boot presses down on the top of your ankle and keeps your foot down. I've only used the boots during the last two days of the season so I have yet to full break them in and or test their durability (I found the Salomons already started breaking down after like 10-15 days of riding). The only thing I noticed is that I got a fair amount of "heel rubbing" in the boot while hiking the halfpipe. Hopefully this will go away after the boots break in... I actually experience something similar with my new pair of ice skates but they went away after a week of ice skating (hoping the snowboard boot will be the same). Also I've noticed that I've develop some hefty calluses on the back of my heels (from ice hockey) so it hopefully won't bother me this season. --arvin "Brett" wrote in message news:M5agb.49533$%h1.33696@sccrnsc02... Hi Arvin, Well, It seems I've found someone who rides like me and knows EXACTLY what I am talking about. I have a low instep so cranking up the boots to keep my heal in the pocket has been an issue, but never in ski boots. But in the the Salomon Dialogues, I'm running for the lodge after about 3 hours on the slope tryingto rip the boots off my feet... And like you, I am a big knee bender. I'll probably take your advice in finding that little elastic frabic and cutting it out. I can resolve the heal lift issues, if any should arise, in other ways. After one season, I've already found that the Salomon boots are softer, or are softer than at the beginning of the season. They seem to break down fast. Like you, I've been asking around and several shops have pointed out a couple of DC Shoes boots that should fit my needs. I'm waiting for the shops to get their inventory in so I can try on as many boots as possible to avoid the same mistake. Thanks for confirming that I'm not wierd in believing my boots are the cause. Too many shops wanted to sell me new boots and bindings!!! Going with a binding with a polymer heal cup probably won't do as I'm as bruttal on bindings as boots. I prefer the metall and carbon fiber heal cups... Which DC Shoes boots dod you go with? I'll let you know how it goes, here on the group, so others can benefit... Brett "Arvin Chang" wrote in message m... Hey Brett... I think I "might" know what is happening as I had a similar problem at least with the Green/Black dialogues (02-03)... I had the Orange/Black ones too (01-02?) but they dug into my shins and I traded them in. I had severe pinching pain in front of my ankle on the top and sides near my arch. It always starts after a few hours (right around lunch). Turns out there is this tough piece of semi-elastic fabric in the liner that goes across the sides of the liner right in front of your ankle. It's purpose is to help control heel lift I think... however, if you are a big knee bender like me... that piece of tough fabric start digging in a LOT into your foot (if you remove your foot and take off a sock you will see the impression it leave). My solution to this was to just take a scissors and cut this part out. That helps a LOT. However, after 2 pairs of Salmons and talking to several other people... I've decided that Salomon boots just aren't very durable... they break down in stiffness very quickly and your heel/ankle begins to lift... it's a particular problem for me because I have narrow/feet ankles... I got a pair of DCShoes at the end of last season as I'm told they last forever. "Brett" wrote in message news:VLueb.644606$Ho3.134494@sccrnsc03... My current boots, 2001-2002 Salomon Dialogues, pinch the front of my ankles, towards the inside/arch... I ride 15 degrees front and 9 degrees back, toed out to keep an upright stance... But after about 2 hours in the boots, I'm ripping them off in severe pain. It feels like they are too soft and are transfering the pressure of the binding, Ride Team EX, to my ankle... I'm an ex slalom skier and have a tendency to beat on my boots by using alot of knee angulation. The guys in the ski shops dropped dead when they say me flex a 2002-2003 Salamon Crossmax 10.0 ski boot. Any pointers? Other than the pinching, the boots are great. But from what I am hearing from the guyns in the shops, someone of my size (6'2", 195 lbs) should be in a stiff boot. I'm an advanced beginner and will be progressing through to Advanced Intermediate this year. Very quick to catch on as I grew up on snow and on skateboards...Would like to eliminate the pinching and have been considering modifying the boots to make them stiffer. So what do the experts on the group say? Any advice for a tall, agressive boarder? If it means anything, I have a size 11.5 foot and ride a Ride Mountain board. Would like to move to a narrower board this year as well but will probably need some sort of riser to keep heels and toes from catching... Sierra Rider |
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#12
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Boots pinch front of ankle... Tall Rider
Alpine Hardboot. Meaning a specific alpine carving board, much skinnier than
your typical snowboard, and plate bindings with hardboots. Maybe a donek, the axis or freecarve. http://www.donek.com/products.htm, and boots/bindings from this place: http://www.bomberonline.com/store/ I just looked at the Ride Mountain specs, even though it is a wide board it looks pretty maneuverable in terms of sidecut radius. I found these specs: Lengths 155, 159, 163, 168, 172 Sidecut 8.2, 8.4, 8.6, 8.7, 8.8 For a wide board those are fairly small radiuses which, in a true carve**, determines the turning radius of the board, smaller sidecut being a smaller turning radius. The 172 has an 8.8m sidecut, I ride a Palmer Honeycomb 161 and the sidecut on my board is 8.8m also which is on the large side for a 161 but the board is made for speed. Assuming you're not riding the 172 you should, when truly carving, be able to make a tighter turn than I could on my 161. You may find a non-wide board a little bit more maneuverable due to lighter weight, but I would say that you're not going to notice much of a difference. If I were you I would buy some risers, and then perhaps rent a few high-end demo boards, try out a couple of normal width boards with the risers on, see if you notice much of a difference between your wide, and the normal boards. From what I understand the Donek Wide for example rides extremely nice for a wide board. When I buy a new board I mainly pay attention to the sidecut radius as this, in my opinion and riding style, determines the maneuverability of a board more than other factors. Here's my interpretation of what board specs mean: Length = speed and stability (longer = more effective edge, better edge hold), also float (in powder) Effective edge = ability of board to hold an edge at speed and also in less than ideal conditions (ice, etc) Sidecut = turning radius / maneuverability (also speed, larger sidecut = wider turns which means you can carry more speed in those turns) Waist = How much toe/heel drag may or may not occur, and perhaps how fast it can make edge to edge transitions (maneuverability), also float (in powder) Weight range = will the board flex too much or not enough in a carving situation when the board is weighted in the turns, also stability, don't want a board that rides like a wet noodle, nor one that rides you, instead of you riding it. ** non-skidded turns in which the track your board leaves in groomed snow is perhaps an inch or two wide -Tom "Brett" wrote in message news:8eagb.49587$%h1.33597@sccrnsc02... Tom, Everyone has experience that may be beneficial to others.. I have no problems with people giving their opinins on particular products and models... I di plan on looking at the Ride boots coming out this year as they sem to have put alot of work into them... Many new models??? I swear by the Superfeet insoles!!! They're in every book I use. The shop guy placed them in my new Salomon ski boots to tweak the fit and I will never take them out. They took a boot that was just a bit too short to an absolutely perfect fit. And that comes from skiing over 31 years in about a dozen boots. What do you mean that you're considering adding an alpine hardboot setup to your gear? After this year, I'll probably be picking up a second, narrower board, that is more versatile. With the Palmer risers... Which means looking at a gear made to ride parks, etc but built to handle my size... Any suggestions? "My Name" wrote in message news:CrPeb.36594$gv5.35760@fed1read05... I would suggest trying on some different (non Salomon) boots. Salomon boots are a love hate relationship, they either fit your feet like a glove, or they put you in foot pain misery, there's no inbetween with salomons. I personally can't wear salomons, after 15 minutes in the boots my feet are screaming. Go the store, and start trying stuff on, leave it on as long as you can, walk around in it, tighten a binding down on it, do whatever you can to simulate riding pressure points. Some boots just don't interface well with some bindings. I use Ride bindings as well (SPI), and I have a pair of Burton Zones that I rode for 3 seasons which were awesome, now I ride a pair of Ride Neos which are nice as well but probably not stiff enough for you, sometimes of benefit is buying boots & bindings from the same MFG as they will design their boots & bindings to interface with eachother. Ask the store folk to reccommend some stiff boots (other than salomons). I will refrain from making any reccommendations as boots are a totally individual experience and what I like, you may abhor. Consider some superfeet insoles too, they're always a nice addition if you've got the money. I have a size 10 boot and use Palmer Powerlink risers for both the added leverage and decreased heel/toe drag (I can really lay a board down to the point I'm turning uphill at the end of my turns). The added leverage makes my edge to edge transitions faster, but even with the risers and 20+ degree angles I can still get drag (which is why I'm considering adding an alpine hardboot setup to my gear), don't want to go much more on the binding angles because it will sacrifice my terrain park and switch rideability. Good luck -Tom AASI 187640 "Brett" wrote in message news:VLueb.644606$Ho3.134494@sccrnsc03... My current boots, 2001-2002 Salomon Dialogues, pinch the front of my ankles, towards the inside/arch... I ride 15 degrees front and 9 degrees back, toed out to keep an upright stance... But after about 2 hours in the boots, I'm ripping them off in severe pain. It feels like they are too soft and are transfering the pressure of the binding, Ride Team EX, to my ankle... I'm an ex slalom skier and have a tendency to beat on my boots by using alot of --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.522 / Virus Database: 320 - Release Date: 9/29/2003 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.522 / Virus Database: 320 - Release Date: 9/29/2003 |
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