Simple Waxing Question

I just waxed my board for the first time, and I wanted to know if I
did it right. I've been reading posts here to find out how to wax the
board, and I got some good tips. I got a used board that had dried
out on the base. I scraped all of the excess wax, cleaned it with
some citrus cleaner, hot waxed it (used half a freakin bar), scraped
off wax until none came off when I ran the scraper on the board, and
buffed it. Am I correct in believing that all the wax needed is
absorbed by the ptex and that I should scrape everything possible off
the surface? The base seems slick and smooth.
Thanks,
E

What did you buff it with? You don't really want a shiny smooth base.
Scotch-brite works great for buffing wax into the structure.

"Ace" wrote in message
om...
I just waxed my board for the first time, and I wanted to know if I
did it right. I've been reading posts here to find out how to wax the
board, and I got some good tips. I got a used board that had dried
out on the base. I scraped all of the excess wax, cleaned it with
some citrus cleaner, hot waxed it (used half a freakin bar), scraped
off wax until none came off when I ran the scraper on the board, and
buffed it. Am I correct in believing that all the wax needed is
absorbed by the ptex and that I should scrape everything possible off
the surface? The base seems slick and smooth.
Thanks,
E

What did you buff it with? You don't really want a shiny smooth base.
Scotch-brite works great for buffing wax into the structure.

I buffed it with a Scotch-brite pad. Maybe I didn't buff it enough.
It's not really shiny, just pretty smooth. How much pressure should
be applied when buffing a board?
Thanks,
E

I brush with full pressure and both hands. I just got a brass and
horsehair structure brush and that works great.

Do you know if you have a sinterred or extruded base?

"Ace" wrote in message
om...
What did you buff it with? You don't really want a shiny smooth base.
Scotch-brite works great for buffing wax into the structure.

I buffed it with a Scotch-brite pad. Maybe I didn't buff it enough.
It's not really shiny, just pretty smooth. How much pressure should
be applied when buffing a board?
Thanks,
E

Do you know if you have a sinterred or extruded base?

It's a Ride Mountain board, so I think it's sintered. I don't know
for sure since I got it used and it's a couple years old, and I can't
find any specs for it on the web.

That's a sinterred base so it should have some texture to it and the ability
to absorb wax. Extruded bases look smooth with a glassy finish when waxed.
That's bad..

"Ace" wrote in message
om...
Do you know if you have a sinterred or extruded base?

It's a Ride Mountain board, so I think it's sintered. I don't know
for sure since I got it used and it's a couple years old, and I can't
find any specs for it on the web.

I wouldn't be too worried about it. Any excess wax is rubbed off by
friction in the first couple of runs. Shiny smooth, sort of smooth or not
so smooth - doesn't matter unless you're a racer. After years of tuning my
own skiis and boards, I don't even bother buffing anymore. I just scrape.
I've never noticed a difference. My boards go plenty fast enough.

"Ace" wrote in message
om...
What did you buff it with? You don't really want a shiny smooth base.
Scotch-brite works great for buffing wax into the structure.

I buffed it with a Scotch-brite pad. Maybe I didn't buff it enough.
It's not really shiny, just pretty smooth. How much pressure should
be applied when buffing a board?
Thanks,
E

Ace wrote:
I just waxed my board for the first time, and I wanted to know if I
did it right. I've been reading posts here to find out how to wax the
board, and I got some good tips. I got a used board that had dried
out on the base. I scraped all of the excess wax, cleaned it with
some citrus cleaner, hot waxed it (used half a freakin bar), scraped
off wax until none came off when I ran the scraper on the board, and
buffed it. Am I correct in believing that all the wax needed is
absorbed by the ptex and that I should scrape everything possible off
the surface? The base seems slick and smooth.
Thanks,
E

Sounds right - repeat the process another time or two (supposedly race
ski techs repeat ~15-20 times for a new base!) to get full wax
absorption in the ptex. Then just wax once after every 2-? days of
riding, depending on how much you like doing it and how anal you are.

I've started crayoning the wax onto my bases before melting it with the
iron. You waste a lot less wax and it works well.

Everything you ever wanted to know about tuning: http://www.tognar.com

Tom

I've started crayoning the wax onto my bases before melting it with the
iron. You waste a lot less wax and it works well.

Is there wax specific for crayoning or do you just take regular wax and rub it in?

Thanks,
Eric

Baka Dasai wrote in
news:slrnc064s7.2ri.idontreadthis@yahoobb220004112 021.bbtec.net:

On 12 Jan 2004 07:38:36 -0800, Ace said (and I quote):
Is there wax specific for crayoning or do you just take regular
wax and rub it in?

I've started using a hybrid of the crayon and drip method. I
find doing the crayon alone doesn't always give me enough wax
(and makes me nervous running a hot iron on base), so I just
do a light amount of dripping, maybe a little bit more at the
tip just to get a good melt going.

Sometimes I stand the bar of wax a couple of feet in front of a
heater for 5 minutes prior to waxing. This softens the wax, and
makes the crayoning much easier.

I wonder if this has any effect on the wax that you don't
use? Just like spent candle wax has a slightly different
consistency than before it was burned?