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#12
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Swix HF10 never
HF 8, being a harder wax, will pick up less dirt than HF 10, being a
softer wax. That goes for Toko Red vs.Yellow, Solda Orange vs. Purple, etc. BD, having graphite/moly/whatever, will help to repel the dirt by allowing the ski to dump off static charges that hold the dirt in, but it certainly doesn't do it all. The harder waxes don't allow the dirt to penetrate as easily, and that's why they're used in conditions that would seem to call for a warmer wax. Mark (TahoeXCSkier) wrote in message . com... Mark, You are right and I didn't argue about HF8 used for _durability_. I was surprised that you cited dirt (item #1 on your list of reasons) as the main reason for using HF8, not HF10. It seemed more logical to me to use a BD product for that purpose and it appears that you did indeed use it. Sorry about misunderstanding. I didn't mean to challenge your expertise. Congratulations with your race result! |
#13
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Swix HF10 never
Harder wax has nothing to do with picking/repelling dirt. Harder wax
is more resistant to dry friction. Higher fluorine content repels water, graphite assures dirt repellency since it carries the same polarity charge as dirt does (negative). HF8 contains less fluorine than HF10, which is OK, because the top layer of wax is 100% fluro. Slightly less fluorine in wax underlayer is still sufficient to bond Jetstream or whatever else you iron or cork-in. Harder underlayer assures friction resistance, which is an issue when conditions are icy (early morning). Here is proof from Toko: "In dirty snow, the primary concern is keeping the skis clean. Once skis become dirty, they will be slow in any condition, especially wet snow when the most dirt is usually found. In these conditions, the recommendation is to wax with LF Molybdenum (wet dirty snow) or LF Blue (cold dirty snow) followed by HF Molybdenum (wet dirty snow) or LF Molybdenum (cold dirty snow) followed by JetStream Old Snow ironed in, brushed out, and polished, followed by JetStream Old Snow lightly rubbed on and polished (all dirty snow conditions" http://www.tokous.com/Manuals/TechManualLR.htm "The softer fluorinated waxes are very hydrophobic (water repellent) making for faster skis in these conditions...[..]the softer waxes such as yellow (for conditions containing more water) contain more Fluorine than the harder waxes.[...]" http://www.tokous.com/Chemical%20Mak...lide%20Wax.htm Torbjorn Karlsen also confirmed that his recommendation to use Solda Orange as an underlayer instead of Yellow was because of the race distance (purely for durability). (Mark) wrote in message . com... HF 8, being a harder wax, will pick up less dirt than HF 10, being a softer wax. That goes for Toko Red vs.Yellow, Solda Orange vs. Purple, etc. BD, having graphite/moly/whatever, will help to repel the dirt by allowing the ski to dump off static charges that hold the dirt in, but it certainly doesn't do it all. The harder waxes don't allow the dirt to penetrate as easily, and that's why they're used in conditions that would seem to call for a warmer wax. Mark (TahoeXCSkier) wrote in message . com... Mark, You are right and I didn't argue about HF8 used for _durability_. I was surprised that you cited dirt (item #1 on your list of reasons) as the main reason for using HF8, not HF10. It seemed more logical to me to use a BD product for that purpose and it appears that you did indeed use it. Sorry about misunderstanding. I didn't mean to challenge your expertise. Congratulations with your race result! |
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