Toko Iron temperature?

Hey, some more ideas for calibrating temp on an iron. Rob's reply got me to
thinking of a magnetic mount surface temp thermometer I used to have on my
wood stove's metal chimney pipe (bought at the wood stove store to protect
against chimney fires). So I did a web search for "surface thermometer" and
found a bunch of examples similar to this:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sp...ermometer.html

I think his is the spec for the same item:
http://www.ptc1.com/thersur312f.htm

Anyway, there's some more such things out there on industrial, cooking, and
scientific sites. I think I'll try to find one locally since they seem like
a common item.

Earlier this fall I got the Holmenkol iron. Using, as Griss calls it, the
"hot enough to melt w/o smoking the wax", I marked the different temps with
colored self-adhesive dots. Since I am using mostly Swix, I putted a yellow
(CH10) dot next to the 75C mark, a green (CH4) dot next to the 115C mark,
etc.

Works fine right now, no chart to look up, no waiting for iron to cool down
because I set it too high by mistake. I say "right now" because one never
knows when Swix will change their glidewax colors... again.


JMC

"Rob Bradlee" wrote in message
o.com...

Does a numerical setting on one model of Toko iron correspond closely
to the same setting on another model? Or do we each just have to
"learn our own irons"?

We bought a Toko Waxcat 2 years ago and the settings are 6 to 10 ?? I just
try to keep it as low as possible and still melt the wax, usually from
somewhere below the 6 but no higher than 7

Kathy

"Rodney/SkiWax.ca" wrote in message
...

Ah-ha, now I understand why you are asking.
The current Toko irons (and for several years) have
the temperature marked on the dial instead of the 1-5 scale.
Your e-address looks US so I'll list it in deg F.

1 -- 265
2 -- 285
3 -- 300
4 -- 320
5 -- MAX

Rodney

Griss:

This is basically what I have. I don't think it's that accurate plus
the problem with this is that you need to flip the iron over to place it
on the soleplate. I suspect this is the main source of inaccuracy.
That's why I like Rob's idea with the board. It could also work with
the woodstove thermometer by just cutting a hole in the board.

MOO, for what it's worth.
Matt

Griss wrote:

Hey, some more ideas for calibrating temp on an iron. Rob's reply got me to
thinking of a magnetic mount surface temp thermometer I used to have on my
wood stove's metal chimney pipe (bought at the wood stove store to protect
against chimney fires). So I did a web search for "surface thermometer" and
found a bunch of examples similar to this:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sp...ermometer.html

I think his is the spec for the same item:
http://www.ptc1.com/thersur312f.htm

Anyway, there's some more such things out there on industrial, cooking, and
scientific sites. I think I'll try to find one locally since they seem like
a common item.

On Tue, 3 Feb 2004, Kenneth Salzberg wrote:

My old Toko Iron (marked in that 1-10 scale) just died after 5 years of
hard going and many falls on cement floors, etc. I got a new one, and
it's marked in degrees. I have no idea how accurate those marking are,
however. So far it works great.

My old Toko Iron died early in it's life. Just before an oversees
trip, so I was frantic to get it working again immediately. We opened
it up and discovered the light was wired in series with the heating
element, and it was actually the light that had failed. We shorted
around the light with a piece of heavy-guage wire and the iron has
been working fine again for many years. Only the the light no longer
works. Big deal. :-)

The light seemed to be the only weak part in the whole design, so
that might be all it would take to get yours going again, too.

-Mitch

On Tue, 3 Feb 2004 08:47:04 -0900, "Griss" wrote:


Another suggestion: somewhere (probably an industrial hardware store) they
sell things called, I think, melt sticks that can be used to calibrate hot
things. A ski tech I know used one to determine the mark on his Toko iron
that is, I believe, 250F (~120C) and then estimated some other temps for the
other markings on his iron based on that. I think that works well too, and
some day I hope to check the temps on my iron, if I can find one of these
items. He can't remember where he bought it.

Tognar Toolworks sells them.

JT

"Griss" wrote in message
...
- thus I use the old "hot enough to melt w/o smoking the wax"
method, and really try to avoid what I've read is the "redline" for
bases -
135C / 275F

Bingo

Scott