kick wax questions

Hello all,

Ive read that it is a good idea to use sandpaper to
roughen the kick zone before applying a base wax. Im
wondering if there is a rule of thumb on what grit to
use for this (I just want general wax adhesion, not to
create hairies). Also, I have been using a piece of
aluminum foil between the iron and the ski when I iron
in the base wax to avoid contaminating the iron with
kick wax anyone see any problem with this? It seems
to work OK, but I am wondering if the foil might
scratch the ski or something. Last thing are there
situations where you might iron in the wax of the day
to increase durability?

Thanks for any input,

Eva K.


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Toko recommends 180 grit sanding for stick wax.
120 grit for klister.
Use base green stick for stick wax binder.
Use base green klister under klister.
In both cases heat in the green (use iron, or heat gun, or torch).
Combo of sandpaper and green and you will keep your wax.
Key point: use a block with the sandpaper or you will round your ski.

Rob Bradlee
Toko Tech Team

--- temporary lull wrote:
Hello all,

Ive read that it is a good idea to use sandpaper to
roughen the kick zone before applying a base wax. Im
wondering if there is a rule of thumb on what grit to
use for this (I just want general wax adhesion, not to
create hairies). Also, I have been using a piece of
aluminum foil between the iron and the ski when I iron
in the base wax to avoid contaminating the iron with
kick wax anyone see any problem with this? It seems
to work OK, but I am wondering if the foil might
scratch the ski or something. Last thing are there
situations where you might iron in the wax of the day
to increase durability?

Thanks for any input,

Eva K.


__________________________________
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=====
Rob Bradlee
Java, C++, Perl, XML, OOAD, Linux, and Unix Training

After sanding you should wipe the zone with
Fibertex to remove any hairies raised.
When you sand, do it in the direction of the
ski tip to tail.

WRT the Alum. foil:
There are specialized ironing sheets to isolate
the iron from the wax (glide or kick) too.
Either way, cover the area to be waxed with the
sheet and then iron the sheet. Lift the sheet
and move it to the next section. Repeat.
This way the sheet never moves.

Rodney

Rob Bradlee wrote:

Toko recommends 180 grit sanding for stick wax.
120 grit for klister.
Use base green stick for stick wax binder.
Use base green klister under klister.
In both cases heat in the green (use iron, or heat gun, or torch).
Combo of sandpaper and green and you will keep your wax.
Key point: use a block with the sandpaper or you will round your ski.

Rob Bradlee
Toko Tech Team

--- temporary lull wrote:

Hello all,

Ive read that it is a good idea to use sandpaper to
roughen the kick zone before applying a base wax. Im
wondering if there is a rule of thumb on what grit to
use for this (I just want general wax adhesion, not to
create hairies). Also, I have been using a piece of
aluminum foil between the iron and the ski when I iron
in the base wax to avoid contaminating the iron with
kick wax anyone see any problem with this? It seems
to work OK, but I am wondering if the foil might
scratch the ski or something. Last thing are there
situations where you might iron in the wax of the day
to increase durability?

Thanks for any input,

Eva K.


__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus







=====
Rob Bradlee
Java, C++, Perl, XML, OOAD, Linux, and Unix Training

temporary lull wrote:

Hello all,

Ive read that it is a good idea to use sandpaper to
roughen the kick zone before applying a base wax. Im
wondering if there is a rule of thumb on what grit to
use for this (I just want general wax adhesion, not to
create hairies). Also, I have been using a piece of
aluminum foil between the iron and the ski when I iron
in the base wax to avoid contaminating the iron with
kick wax anyone see any problem with this? It seems
to work OK, but I am wondering if the foil might
scratch the ski or something. Last thing are there
situations where you might iron in the wax of the day
to increase durability?

I usually use anything above 100. And I don't grind from
tip to tail but from side to side. You put wax over it so
it doesn't slow down your skis. Onlything you have to take
care is as Rob said... use sand paper on some solid brick
(wood...) so it's flat and you don't round base of your
skis.
When it comes to "contaminating the iron with kick wax" you
just melt some glide wax on top of iron and wipe it good
with paper towel and everything is fine. For longer distances
you always iron first layer of wax if snow is cold and hard
or there's ice in track. After that you wax normaly whatever
you choose. I usually iron in some colder wax and then on
top it comes Blue Extra (I still have some racing service
VF-40 which works fine even if it's -15c
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"Primoz Jeroncic" wrote

When it comes to "contaminating the iron with kick wax" you
just melt some glide wax on top of iron and wipe it good
with paper towel and everything is fine.

I do this too - "clean" the iron by melting and wiping with kick wax before
ironing the kick wax, and "clean" it with glide wax afterwards. I also do
this with glide wax each time before I wax my skis - I figure that in my
garage/shop the iron picks up some dust and it's easy to clean it with
melted wax and a paper towel/fiberlene.

Grissy

I just carry a separate old iron that I just use for grip wax. I never use
my good glide wax iron. Grip wax does not require as high a temperature as
many glide waxes so an older, less accurate iron is suitable.

Scott Elliot
http://www3.telus.net/selliot/

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Hi Eva-
Good to see another female voice in this newsgroup!
Here's my input:
Sandpaper-- you use a fairly rough grit-- 100 - 150, and what you're basically doing is scratching the base (horrors!) enough to give the kick wax a little better chance to adhere. What I learned (which is not necessarily the best or only way to do it) is to pull the sandpaper diagonally downward so that you have a backward pointing "chevron" pattern of scratches that you can see on the ski base. Also, just do this on the central (shortest) part of the kick zone, i.e., where you would be applying wax on a very hard snow kind of day (not the extended kick zone that you would wax if the snow were very soft or if you were going to be on a very hilly course)

Aluminum foil and scratching the base-- Unless you were really careless and ham-handed, I don't see how this would give you any scratches that would amount to anything. Think that hard snow such as cold corn snow would be at least as abrasive to your skis as aluminum foil set on top of your skis to mask off the kick zone.

Ironing in kick wax- at least as I understand it, this is almost always a good thing. There are also binder waxes that are meant to be ironed onto the base to serve as a layer that both "cushions" the kick wax (makes it a bit more bite-y), and gives it something to stick to. Just ironing in a harder kick wax (such as a green or blue) also accomplishes a similar thing (again, as I understand it- I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong). It probably has to do with getting the kick wax into the pores of the ski, vs just applied externally. One important thing he be SURE to clean your iron off after you've ironed kick wax and before you use it to apply or iron in glide wax. Some people even go so far as to use a separate iron for kick wax. I'm not so dogmatic (or rich enough to buy multiple irons), but I clean the iron while it's hot with a fiberlene (fancy Swix word for polypropylene non-woven towelling)or paper towel, and wax remover (solvent). Probably not a !
bad idea
to hold your breath or use a mask while you do this. Then I let the iron sit a few minutes for the last of the solvent to vaporize before I use it for glide wax again.

Chris Cline
SLC, UT
temporary lull wrote:
Hello all,

Ive read that it is a good idea to use sandpaper to
roughen the kick zone before applying a base wax. Im
wondering if there is a rule of thumb on what grit to
use for this (I just want general wax adhesion, not to
create hairies). Also, I have been using a piece of
aluminum foil between the iron and the ski when I iron
in the base wax to avoid contaminating the iron with
kick wax anyone see any problem with this? It seems
to work OK, but I am wondering if the foil might
scratch the ski or something. Last thing are there
situations where you might iron in the wax of the day
to increase durability?

Thanks for any input,

Eva K.


__________________________________
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---------------------------------
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--0-366194290-1074626477=:81264
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii

DIVHi Eva-/DIV
DIVGood to see another female voice in this newsgroup!/DIV
DIVHere's my input:/DIV
DIVSandpaper-- you use a fairly rough grit-- 100 - 150, and what you're basically doing is scratching the base (horrors!) enough to give the kick wax a little better chance to adhere.  What I learned (which is not necessarily the best or only way to do it) is to pull the sandpaper diagonally downward so that you have a backward pointing "chevron" pattern of scratches that you can see on the ski base.  Also, just do this on the central (shortest) part of the kick zone, i.e., where you would be applying wax on a very hard snow kind of day (not the extended kick zone that you would wax if the snow were very soft or if you were going to be on a very hilly course)/DIV
DIV /DIV
DIVAluminum foil and scratching the base-- Unless you were really careless and ham-handed, I don't see how this would give you any scratches that would amount to anything.  Think that hard snow such as cold corn snow would be at least as abrasive to your skis as aluminum foil set on top of your skis to mask off the kick zone./DIV
DIV /DIV
DIVIroning in kick wax- at least as I understand it, this is almost always a good thing.  There are also binder waxes that are meant to be ironed onto the base to serve as a layer that both "cushions" the kick wax (makes it a bit more bite-y), and gives it something to stick to.  Just ironing in a harder kick wax (such as a green or blue) also accomplishes a similar thing (again, as I understand it- I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong).  It probably has to do with getting the kick wax into the pores of the ski, vs just applied externally.  One important thing he  be SURE to clean your iron off after you've ironed kick wax and before you use it to apply or iron in glide wax.  Some people even go so far as to use a separate iron for kick wax.  I'm not so dogmatic (or rich enough to buy multiple irons), but I clean the iron while it's hot with a fiberlene (fancy Swix word for polypropylene non-woven towelling)or paper towel, and!
wax
remover (solvent).  Probably not a bad idea to hold your breath or use a mask while you do this.  Then I let the iron sit a few minutes for the last of the solvent to vaporize before I use it for glide wax again./DIV
DIV /DIV
DIVChris Cline/DIV
DIVSLC, UTBRBItemporary lull >/I/B wrote:/DIV
BLOCKQUOTE class=replbq style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid"Hello all,BRBRIve read that it is a good idea to use sandpaper toBRroughen the kick zone before applying a base wax. ImBRwondering if there is a rule of thumb on what grit toBRuse for this (I just want general wax adhesion, not toBRcreate hairies). Also, I have been using a piece ofBRaluminum foil between the iron and the ski when I ironBRin the base wax to avoid contaminating the iron withBRkick wax anyone see any problem with this? It seemsBRto work OK, but I am wondering if the foil mightBRscratch the ski or something. Last thing are thereBRsituations where you might iron in the wax of the dayBRto increase durability? BRBRThanks for any input, BRBREva K.BRBRBR__________________________________B RDo you Yahoo!?BRYahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus"
SweepstakesBRhttp://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonusBRBRBRBR/BLOCKQUOTEphr SIZE=1
Do you Yahoo!?br
Yahoo! Hotjobs: a href="http://pa.yahoo.com/*http://us.rd.yahoo.com/hotjobs/mail_footer_email/evt=21482/*http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus"Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes/a
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