Wanted to Buy or Build: roto brush handle and brushes

For that matter I'd be interested on input from folks who have
invested in these on what brands to get or to avoid, or just what
you like/dislike about any particular brand. I've never invested
in a set yet though I've been repeatedly tempted, and will
assuredly be needing it within a few years when the number of
skis I have to wax for each outing doubles. Also how many of
the different brushes offered does one really need?? :-)

-Mitch


On Fri, 19 Sep 2003, Julian Colman wrote:

HI All

I need but cannot afford to buy a new roto brush handle and brush set.

So .... if you have a used one, please advise as to make, model, age,
condition, cost and shipping location.

I'd also welcome any ideas on building one.

thanks

JC

You don't need a rotobrush. Save your time and energy, stay off the
grid, put in a little elbow grease and you will be set. Get a nice set of
big, quality bronze brushes, like the Swix metal "Horse" brushes (soft and
medium are plenty) and you are set to go unless you own a ski shop and need
to wax 30 pairs of skis per day.

On the Subaru Team we have a wax technician who has to wax up to 25
pairs of skis. They very rarely use rotobrushes. Same thing on the World
Cup. Metal brushes do a better job almost as quickly as a roto-brush and
you can't overbrush and burn bases.

-Nathan
http://nsavage.com

"Julian Colman" wrote in message
able.rogers.com...
HI All

I need but cannot afford to buy a new roto brush handle and brush set.

So .... if you have a used one, please advise as to make, model, age,
condition, cost and shipping location.

I'd also welcome any ideas on building one.

thanks

JC

Huh? Trade in the nylon brush for metal? I've never heard
this before. Somewhere I have an old bronze brush, probably
from Reliable Racing and probably 10-15 years old, but I
thought they were just for removing wax from structure AFTER
doing the heavy lifting with the nylon brush. You're doing
the whole job with bronze now? Doesn't it pack in with wax?
Doesn't it pull wax from the base when used aggressively?
Do you mean to tell me I've been doing it "the hard way" all
these years??? [AAAAAAGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!]

So now I gotta ask, what's the proper technique for bronze, if
it differs at all from nylon, and under what conditions is
bronze not appropriate? (i.e. what structure or wax choices?)

-Mitch


On Thu, 25 Sep 2003, Nathan Schultz wrote:

You don't need a rotobrush. Save your time and energy, stay off the
grid, put in a little elbow grease and you will be set. Get a nice set of
big, quality bronze brushes, like the Swix metal "Horse" brushes (soft and
medium are plenty) and you are set to go unless you own a ski shop and need
to wax 30 pairs of skis per day.

On the Subaru Team we have a wax technician who has to wax up to 25
pairs of skis. They very rarely use rotobrushes. Same thing on the World
Cup. Metal brushes do a better job almost as quickly as a roto-brush and
you can't overbrush and burn bases.

-Nathan
http://nsavage.com

What is the proper brushing and waxing procedure for this year? I
have every thing from do not use metal brushes ever to use them
religiously. I have heard do not use brushes they are superfluous to
procedure involving over 10 brushing passes involving 6 different
kinds of brushes. I have heard all of these preached as the one right
way. I have a feeling that others are similarly bombarded by
conflicting procedures. If someone knowledgable in this area could
say what is currently the proper procedure is and why I think that
would help many of tremendously. Also, what is the exact role and
purpose of the brushes and corks that have been used in nordic skiing
are that would be interesting too.
--Matt

(Mitch Collinsworth) wrote in message ornell.edu...
Huh? Trade in the nylon brush for metal? I've never heard
this before. Somewhere I have an old bronze brush, probably
from Reliable Racing and probably 10-15 years old, but I
thought they were just for removing wax from structure AFTER
doing the heavy lifting with the nylon brush. You're doing
the whole job with bronze now? Doesn't it pack in with wax?
Doesn't it pull wax from the base when used aggressively?
Do you mean to tell me I've been doing it "the hard way" all
these years??? [AAAAAAGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!]

So now I gotta ask, what's the proper technique for bronze, if
it differs at all from nylon, and under what conditions is
bronze not appropriate? (i.e. what structure or wax choices?)

-Mitch


On Thu, 25 Sep 2003, Nathan Schultz wrote:

You don't need a rotobrush. Save your time and energy, stay off the
grid, put in a little elbow grease and you will be set. Get a nice set of
big, quality bronze brushes, like the Swix metal "Horse" brushes (soft and
medium are plenty) and you are set to go unless you own a ski shop and need
to wax 30 pairs of skis per day.

On the Subaru Team we have a wax technician who has to wax up to 25
pairs of skis. They very rarely use rotobrushes. Same thing on the World
Cup. Metal brushes do a better job almost as quickly as a roto-brush and
you can't overbrush and burn bases.

-Nathan
http://nsavage.com

Julian Colman wrote:
HI All

I need but cannot afford to buy a new roto brush handle and brush set.

So .... if you have a used one, please advise as to make, model, age,
condition, cost and shipping location.

I'd also welcome any ideas on building one.

thanks

JC


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