How often to Hot Wax?

Every couple a times out for Cold Snow?
What about spring conditions?

Charles Jutkins wrote:
Every couple a times out for Cold Snow?
What about spring conditions?

When the kid on the snowboard goes by
you like you were standing still on
a catwalk, it's time for wax. Or more
often if the goal is to protect the
p-tex.

I wax when I tune. Every three to six
trips out. When snow is sticky (read
sticky here not wet, and especially
when it's sticky in the sun and fast
in the shade) I might use the Zardoz
NotWax every other run until it cools
off late in the afternoon.

Wet snow is not necessarily slow, but
it is a bit more abrasive, so a good
coat of wax every other day is good.

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 18:33:50 -0800, "Charles Jutkins"
wrote this crap:

Every couple a times out for Cold Snow?
What about spring conditions?


Hot waxing is a waste of time. You people forget that the wax is
rubbed off during the first run. You should wax AFTER skiing. The
wax is to protect the skis during travel, or storage.




My T-shirt says, "This shirt is the
ultimate power in the universe."

Harry Weiner wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 18:33:50 -0800, "Charles Jutkins"
wrote this crap:

Every couple a times out for Cold Snow?
What about spring conditions?

Hot waxing is a waste of time. You people forget that the wax is
rubbed off during the first run. You should wax AFTER skiing. The
wax is to protect the skis during travel, or storage.

And don't use any of that expensive canning wax or Turtle Wax, old
candles (just about free at garage sales) work fine and smell good.

--
Cheers,
Bev
================================================== ====
I am grateful that I am not as judgmental as all those
censorious, self-righteous people around me.

On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 14:21:01 -0800, The Real Bev
wrote this crap:

Harry Weiner wrote:


Hot waxing is a waste of time. You people forget that the wax is
rubbed off during the first run. You should wax AFTER skiing. The
wax is to protect the skis during travel, or storage.

And don't use any of that expensive canning wax or Turtle Wax, old
candles (just about free at garage sales) work fine and smell good.


Such loooxury! We used to wax our barrel staves with old crayons.
Teal was always my favorite.




My T-shirt says, "This shirt is the
ultimate power in the universe."

"The Real Bev" wrote in message
...
Harry Weiner wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 18:33:50 -0800, "Charles Jutkins"
wrote this crap:

Every couple a times out for Cold Snow?
What about spring conditions?

Hot waxing is a waste of time. You people forget that the wax is
rubbed off during the first run. You should wax AFTER skiing. The
wax is to protect the skis during travel, or storage.

And don't use any of that expensive canning wax or Turtle Wax, old candles
(just about free at garage sales) work fine and smell good.

At what temperatures?

Bob F wrote:
"The Real Bev" wrote in message
...
Harry Weiner wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 18:33:50 -0800, "Charles Jutkins"
wrote this crap:

Every couple a times out for Cold Snow?
What about spring conditions?
Hot waxing is a waste of time. You people forget that the wax is
rubbed off during the first run. You should wax AFTER skiing. The
wax is to protect the skis during travel, or storage.
And don't use any of that expensive canning wax or Turtle Wax, old candles
(just about free at garage sales) work fine and smell good.

At what temperatures?

Well, at least hot enough to melt the wax.
An old flat iron works really well.

Oh, you mean what snow temperatures. Who
cares unless you are racing. Candle wax
and canning wax are pretty soft so it
works good in soft to wet snow. When it's
really cold, again, who cares unless you
are racing.

"VtSkier" wrote in message
...
Bob F wrote:
"The Real Bev" wrote in message
...
Harry Weiner wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 18:33:50 -0800, "Charles Jutkins"
wrote this crap:

Every couple a times out for Cold Snow?
What about spring conditions?
Hot waxing is a waste of time. You people forget that the wax is
rubbed off during the first run. You should wax AFTER skiing. The
wax is to protect the skis during travel, or storage.
And don't use any of that expensive canning wax or Turtle Wax, old candles
(just about free at garage sales) work fine and smell good.

At what temperatures?

Well, at least hot enough to melt the wax.
An old flat iron works really well.

Oh, you mean what snow temperatures. Who
cares unless you are racing. Candle wax
and canning wax are pretty soft so it
works good in soft to wet snow. When it's
really cold, again, who cares unless you
are racing.

There are times I don't want to be able to walk straight up the mountain. Skiing
with the wrong wax is not fun.

On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 18:28:20 -0800, "Bob F"
wrote this crap:


There are times I don't want to be able to walk straight up the mountain. Skiing
with the wrong wax is not fun.


What the hell does that mean? Why would you walk up the mountain?





My T-shirt says, "This shirt is the
ultimate power in the universe."

Bob F wrote:
"VtSkier" wrote in message
...
Bob F wrote:
...
At what temperatures?
Well, at least hot enough to melt the wax.
An old flat iron works really well.

Oh, you mean what snow temperatures. Who
cares unless you are racing. Candle wax
and canning wax are pretty soft so it
works good in soft to wet snow. When it's
really cold, again, who cares unless you
are racing.

There are times I don't want to be able to walk straight up the mountain. Skiing
with the wrong wax is not fun.

Basic "yellow ski wax" is nearly 100% paraffin AKA "canning wax." (The
impurity is the yellow coloring - if it makes you feel better melt you
canning wax and stir in some yellow food dye.)

The other "color" ski waxes have some microwax (look it up) added to
make them harder (and different color dyes.)

You get that "walk up the mountain" feeling when you don't scrape a soft
wax - wax on the surface of the ski slows you down - for best
performance what you want is wax just in the sintered base pores and
none on the base surface.

What I do now is iron on some paraffin when I stick to the snow and
scrape off the excess. When the kid used to race we payed a lot more
attention - got a collection of brass and nylon and horsehair rotary
brushes and such around here. I did some research and got various
additives and stuff - that's when I found out for hydrocarbon wax the
base component is plain old paraffin. I still have a few hundred dollars
(at ski wax prices) worth of fluro around here somewhere - probably
buried under debris on the tuning bench. Of course I only spent tens of
dollars for the fluro, as chemical equivalents.

Ski wax is like buying brand name prescription drugs - costs a bundle,
and generics are exactly the same thing much cheaper.

Use paraffin.

And you Brits - I'm not talking about kerosene.