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#31
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Jan,
The weight your describing is probably not a problrem if your goal is to attain fitness. However, it is a huge problem if your goal is to improve or learn proper technique. Nordic skis weigh in at about 1 to 1.2 kg.... The advice given to me when I was starting to rollerski was to avoid heavy rollerskis such as the V2 150 and the Elpex model because they promote stepping up hill with V1 technique due to the excess weight of the rollerski. I would imagine inline skates would be better for developing technique than the Crosskates. Purcahse or build a pair of lighter rollerskis. I built skis based on the blue print you posted earlier. The homemade rollerskis functioned well for about 700km until the rear fork failed. If I were to build another pair I would contruct seperate forks and weld or bolt them on the ski chassis. I chose to purchase a pair of Marwe rollerskis and I love the feel of the wood laminate ski vs. rigid aluminum. The only problem is the inflated cost of the Marwe wheel. However, I have used other wheels that are cheaper and function adequataly. You stated you are a novice and have never been on snow skis. My advice would be to forget about 1km interval times (for now) and focus on proper technique. Take a lesson and have someone film you. Compare what your doing with what a WC skier (with good form) is doing.... Good Luck, Jim |
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#32
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Thanks Jim!
Even hills are extremely rare here. As I intend to fit multiple sizes wheels, I'll remember to use the lighest/smallest one when I take to the nearest rollerski track+hill. With all the roots under the asphalt here, I just don't see myself doing any from-home workout on less than 150mm air tires. My CAD specialist friend is quite worried about the way the V2 frame is constructed, with those sperate forks. They do work of course, but are quite hard to immitate I'm afraid. My friend also dislikes the higher placed axles for peak loads, but it will have to be done that way for me, I want the large wheel option. I was thinking maybe to keep the design as simple to make as possible, and then just weld on even simpler support plates to double material in critical places. Shouldn't weigh much. Please do share your findings in any stage of your new ski build! You stated you are a novice and have never been on snow skis. My advice would be to forget about 1km interval times (for now) and focus on proper technique. I know :-) It's just something I do to self-motivate on shorter workout on the 1km track across the road. I need to see progress, and timing a 30km loop isn't exactly my idea of getting old in good health, not with our traffic. I do do longer longout (20-30km) where I just ski along and try different things. Now off for some technique training and new record attempt :-) J schreef in bericht oups.com... Jan, The weight your describing is probably not a problrem if your goal is to attain fitness. However, it is a huge problem if your goal is to improve or learn proper technique. Nordic skis weigh in at about 1 to 1.2 kg.... The advice given to me when I was starting to rollerski was to avoid heavy rollerskis such as the V2 150 and the Elpex model because they promote stepping up hill with V1 technique due to the excess weight of the rollerski. I would imagine inline skates would be better for developing technique than the Crosskates. Purcahse or build a pair of lighter rollerskis. I built skis based on the blue print you posted earlier. The homemade rollerskis functioned well for about 700km until the rear fork failed. If I were to build another pair I would contruct seperate forks and weld or bolt them on the ski chassis. I chose to purchase a pair of Marwe rollerskis and I love the feel of the wood laminate ski vs. rigid aluminum. The only problem is the inflated cost of the Marwe wheel. However, I have used other wheels that are cheaper and function adequataly. You stated you are a novice and have never been on snow skis. My advice would be to forget about 1km interval times (for now) and focus on proper technique. Take a lesson and have someone film you. Compare what your doing with what a WC skier (with good form) is doing.... Good Luck, Jim |
#33
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J
My first two pair of the original V2 Aeros had the forks riveted onto the shafts, and the rivets all eventually failed. I replaced them with SS bolts, which worked well. The newer shafts of my classic CS models has the forks welded on, which has been fine, except the thickness of the fork material is less, and subject to bending and cracking over time, on the outside rear fork that has the outrigger attatched. My newest shafts on my skating Aeros are also welded, and have the shaft slightly lower to the ground. Interestingly, I have had less trouble with them scraping the inside edge of the forks. It may be the added stability. it may be slightly newer boots, it may be that the shafts are slightly longer with the bindings mounted about an inch farther forward of the rear, or perhaps I really am becoming a more skilled skier. (Mmm. . . nah!) Randy |
#34
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J
My first two pair of the original V2 Aeros had the forks riveted onto the shafts, and the rivets all eventually failed. I replaced them with SS bolts, which worked well. The newer shafts of my classic CS models has the forks welded on, which has been fine, except the thickness of the fork material is less, and subject to bending and cracking over time, on the outside rear fork that has the outrigger attatched. My newest shafts on my skating Aeros are also welded, and have the shaft slightly lower to the ground. Interestingly, I have had less trouble with them scraping the inside edge of the forks. It may be the added stability. it may be slightly newer boots, it may be that the shafts are slightly longer with the bindings mounted about an inch farther forward of the rear, or perhaps I really am becoming a more skilled skier. (Mmm. . . nah!) Randy |
#35
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schreef in bericht oups.com... My newest shafts on my skating Aeros are also welded, and have the shaft slightly lower to the ground. Interestingly, I have had less trouble with them scraping the inside edge of the forks. It may be the added stability. it may be slightly newer boots, it may be that the shafts are slightly longer with the bindings mounted about an inch farther forward of the rear, or perhaps I really am becoming a more skilled skier. (Mmm. . . nah!) Randy, what's that scraping? The tires to the fork I take? With home made's, and supposing the V2 wheels, what inner fork width should I keep as a minimum? Perhaps a bit wider wouldn't hurt anyway. I'm going to have to find out in which sizes square aluminum tubing can be had. Hard to get info if yo're not into that. |
#36
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Jan:
The scraping I spoke of was the edge of the chassis at it's widest points, i.e. wwhere the fork material wrapped around the shaft, on the pavement when the ski was rolled over on push-of. Since the newer chassis are a little lower to the ground, I would have expected the problem to be worse, but ist is in fact much better! As I said before, whether that's due to better stability, boots, binding position, ski length, or the loose screw on top of the skis (me), I don't know. I think your inner fork width will be determined by the axle length of the wheels. It's a little hard to measure accurately with the crude method I came up with in a quick dash to the garage just now, but that dimension looks to be about 1.75" or 44.5mm. Randy |
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