Burton Custom too much for a newbie?

I get boards tuned all the time. I've never found a shop that can
restore or add a diamond cut structure to a board.

Ask for a stone grind, not a belt grind. If they don't know what you
mean when you say a medium grain structure, find another store... I
mean, why would you let someone clueless like that hold your couple
$100 dollar board against a belt sander?

It's never been an issue for me, I ride
in dry snow conditions almost all the time. I know structure would give
me a little more speed but I feel I go plenty fast enough already.


Diamond cut structure may impeed speed on dry snow. You want a smotth
base, like Burton, for dry snow. Structure helps cahneel water,
especailly on snowbords in spring conditions.

Diamond cut structure may impeed speed on dry snow. You want a smotth
base, like Burton, for dry snow. Structure helps cahneel water,
especailly on snowbords in spring conditions.

I have most of my base grinds done with a diamond structure and have never
noticed it slowing me down in snow down to about 6 degrees Fahrenheit, which
is the coldest I've ridden in since I was a good enough rider to care. I
"measure" this by my ability to get up an uphill section at my local resort
when not in traffic.

I suspect that at a certain temperature, yes a diamond structure would slow
one down... however that temperature is somewhere well below zero Fahrenheit
(0F is about -18C).

In any case, if you don't like your structure you can always have your base
ground and a more preferable one put in.


Mike T

"Mike T" wrote in message
news:Apprd.5858$1z5.1773@trnddc06...
Diamond cut structure may impeed speed on dry snow. You want a smotth
base, like Burton, for dry snow. Structure helps cahneel water,
especailly on snowbords in spring conditions.

I have most of my base grinds done with a diamond structure and have never
noticed it slowing me down in snow down to about 6 degrees Fahrenheit,
which
is the coldest I've ridden in since I was a good enough rider to care. I
"measure" this by my ability to get up an uphill section at my local
resort
when not in traffic.

I suspect that at a certain temperature, yes a diamond structure would
slow
one down... however that temperature is somewhere well below zero
Fahrenheit
(0F is about -18C).

In any case, if you don't like your structure you can always have your
base
ground and a more preferable one put in.


How many grinds can a typical board take? I'm pretty sure I remember the
local shop telling me to be prudent with the grinds or risk grinding away
too much base and edge material. But now I can't remember how many grinds
they said that might take. Is it a valid concern? I believe they recommended
one per season, or maybe it was one early season and one late season...


Mike T

How many grinds can a typical board take? I'm pretty sure I remember the
local shop telling me to be prudent with the grinds or risk grinding away
too much base and edge material. But now I can't remember how many grinds
they said that might take. Is it a valid concern? I believe they
recommended
one per season, or maybe it was one early season and one late season...

Agreed, it is a good idea to limit the number of base grinds you give your
board!!!!

It really depends on how skilled the person operating the machinery is. a
less skilled person would probably remove more material per grind. also it
depends if your base is flat to begin with... if you take a board that has a
convex base in for a grind they are going to wind up taking off a fair
amount to get it flat.

I'd say you should be able to get at least a dozen grinds on a board and
probably double that but it's only a wild guess. Stone grinds are
expensive, that's another reason you don't want it done too often!

-Mike T, who owns too many snowboards and *really* tries to avoid
unnecessary base grinds!!!

On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 00:38:43 GMT, "Chris J." allegedly
wrote:

How many grinds can a typical board take? I'm pretty sure I remember
the local shop telling me to be prudent with the grinds or risk
grinding away too much base and edge material. But now I can't
remember how many grinds they said that might take. Is it a valid
concern? I believe they recommended one per season, or maybe it was
one early season and one late season...

It depends on the amount of ptex on the board in the first place. My
Doneks have about 1-2mm of the stuff, yet my Burtons have a lot more.
Obviously the Burton would stand more grinds, but I haven't had mine done
for a long time.

- Dave.

--
The only powder to get high on, falls from the sky.
http://www.vpas.org/ - Snowboarding the worlds pow pow -
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The Snowboard FAQ lives here - http://rssFAQ.org/

Well, thought I'd post an update. Just got a used Burton Custom 162. I
found the board on ebay, but the guy was local so I went to see the
board. It was in excellent shape with just a few scratches on the
bottom. Got the board and Burton Custom bindings (used) for $300. I'm
really stoked, and can't wait to try the board. I want to thank all of
you for your input, it helped tremendously. I will post an update when
I get a chance to try the board.
Mark
(Chet Hayes) wrote in message . com...
"Jason Medeiros" wrote in message ...
i'd say a custom 61 or 64 would work for you - at least for a few years.
the custom has a nice quality snap to it and the length is long enough so
you won't outgrow it in a year. after riding for over 8years, i've still
got a custom 64 rock board that i use occasionally and it works well for me.

I highly recommend the Custom. I got one after first learning on a
run of the mill Sims board. The Custom made a huge difference and I
still ride a Custom today. It's flexible enough and forgiving enough
that it's suitable for a beginner. And somewhere in the 160-162 range
would be the size I would recommend. I'd also consider buying a used
one on Ebay, if you can find the right one. That would be fine to
learn on, cost a lot less, give you some experience with the size,
etc.