Waxing Help

Is there a good on-line or printed source of info dealing specifically with
prep and waxing of classic skis? After all these years in the sport, I have
come to the realization that I have never truly understood all the mysteries
of kick wax application. For example, is base binder always a good thing,
or is it just for marathon distance racing? When applying your kick waxes,
and then corking them in, is there a way to remove some of that which ends
up migrating onto the rear glide zone? What are some good non-petroleum (as
in non-flammable, I live in an apartment) wax removers? Or are there better
ways of removing old kick wax. Again, when corking in kick wax, how smooth
do you make it? Are there times when it would be better to leave it kind of
"lumpy"?

I know how to make skating and alpine skis go fast, but this part of the
sport seems like black majic!

Thanks and Merry Christmas,

-Jeff

Hi Jeff,

"Wile E. Coyote" wrote:

Is there a good on-line or printed source of info dealing specifically with
prep and waxing of classic skis? After all these years in the sport, I have
come to the realization that I have never truly understood all the mysteries
of kick wax application. For example, is base binder always a good thing,
or is it just for marathon distance racing?

Probably not needed for recreational skiing.

When applying your kick waxes,
and then corking them in, is there a way to remove some of that which ends
up migrating onto the rear glide zone?

Yes. It's called a scrapper, but be careful not to gouge out your ski
bottoms.

What are some good non-petroleum (as
in non-flammable, I live in an apartment) wax removers?

I use a product made by Swix for removing wax. It is not pungent and does
the job.
Haven't seen it in the stores lately, but it should be available.

Or are there better
ways of removing old kick wax. Again, when corking in kick wax, how smooth
do you make it? Are there times when it would be better to leave it kind of
"lumpy"?

You should first use a plastic or metal scraper at an angle close to the ski
surface to
do a rough job of smoothening. Follow up with the corking. It should be
relatively
smooth and lumps won't help for either grip or glide.



I know how to make skating and alpine skis go fast, but this part of the
sport seems like black majic!

I don't know how fast you want to go, but I sometimes wax the entire length
of my
ski. If I use the right wax for the temperature, I get sufficient glide, and
find I can parallel
straight up hills that others have to herringbone or side step. Unless you
are a competitive
racer, what's your hurry? Pick a leisurely pace and enjoy the surroundings.

Sherwin D.



Thanks and Merry Christmas,

-Jeff

On Fri, 24 Dec 2004 22:37:40 -0700, "Wile E. Coyote"
wrote:

Is there a good on-line or printed source of info dealing specifically with
prep and waxing of classic skis?

http://www.rideandglide.bizland.com/wax_101.htm (also includes skating
skis).

JT

****************************
Remove "remove" to reply
Visit http://www.jt10000.com
****************************

"John Forrest Tomlinson" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 24 Dec 2004 22:37:40 -0700, "Wile E. Coyote"
wrote:

Is there a good on-line or printed source of info dealing specifically
with
prep and waxing of classic skis?

http://www.rideandglide.bizland.com/wax_101.htm (also includes skating
skis).

JT

****************************
Remove "remove" to reply
Visit http://www.jt10000.com
****************************

THAT's what I was looking for. Thanks JT!

-JJ

"Wile E. Coyote" wrote in message
...
Is there a good on-line or printed source of info dealing specifically
with
prep and waxing of classic skis?

Here are some good ones. http://www.sierranordic.com/Tech_tip_16.html

http://www.swixsport.com/ie5D406.htm

If you explore at both of these sites, you'll find all you ever need to know
about base prep and waxing. But do some google searches and you'll find a
bunch of other web sites.

After all these years in the sport, I have
come to the realization that I have never truly understood all the
mysteries
of kick wax application. For example, is base binder always a good thing,
or is it just for marathon distance racing?

I always think that applying the first coat of kick wax with heat (iron,
heat gun, hair dryer) is a good thing. This can either be a binder or your
regular kick wax of the day. Probably not necessary if skiing only 10 or 20
km though.

When applying your kick waxes,
and then corking them in, is there a way to remove some of that which ends
up migrating onto the rear glide zone?

Two ideas: first, when you rub on the kick wax (crayon it), stop a little
short so that when you cork it, it migrates to the end of your zone, rather
than beyond it.

Other than that, just take your plastic scraper and scrape it off.

What are some good non-petroleum (as
in non-flammable, I live in an apartment) wax removers?

Virtually any citrus solvent will work. There are citrus products made
specifically for skis, and that's your best bet, but others also work.
Right now I'm using some bicycle citrus solvent that my local ski shop
recommends for ski bottoms.

Or are there better
ways of removing old kick wax.

Another way is to use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the wax (carefully of
course!) then wipe it off with paper towels or fiberlene (a lint-less cloth
made by Swix for working on skis). I find the blue shop type paper towels s
old in roles in autoparts stores work pretty well, but I also use the
fiberlene.

My general strategy is to scrape off as much as I can with a plexiglass
scraper, then remove the rest with citris solvent and shop towels.

Again, when corking in kick wax, how smooth
do you make it? Are there times when it would be better to leave it kind
of
"lumpy"?

It's never better to leave it lumpy. It's smooth, even contact with the
snow that makes the kick wax work. Leaving it lumpy will not help it grip
better. The smoother you can get it the better. Sometimes you really need
to work on it, especially if you're outside and the wax is cold (and/or
really hard wax). That's one of the reasons to apply in thin coats rather
than thick - it's easier to smooth out. I always like to apply my grip wax
indoors, to a warm ski if I can. It's easier to cork. But I've done a lot
of outdoors waxing, it's just a little more work.


I know how to make skating and alpine skis go fast, but this part of the
sport seems like black majic!

It can be tricky, but really, unless you're looking for super, racing grade
kick, you can get by with 3 or 4 waxes for most common conditions from below
0F to around freezing (32F). In fact, Toko makes a 2 wax system that my
wife has found to be acceptable in below 0F to just below 32F. But, in my
opinion, in the Swix line you can get by with three or four. Ask at a good
specialty ski shop - they're used to easing people into kick waxing,
starting simple.


Thanks and Merry Christmas,

Same to you and good luck with your waxing.
Cam

"Wile E. Coyote" wrote:
Is there a good on-line or printed source of info dealing specifically
with
prep and waxing of classic skis?

Another link for you. A four part series by Jim Galanes:
http://www.dartmouth.edu/~jaydavis/fssc/features.html



I like the chart in part 2.

Wile E. Coyote wrote:
Is there a good on-line or printed source of info dealing specifically with
prep and waxing of classic skis? After all these years in the sport, I have
come to the realization that I have never truly understood all the mysteries
of kick wax application. For example, is base binder always a good thing,
or is it just for marathon distance racing? When applying your kick waxes,
and then corking them in, is there a way to remove some of that which ends
up migrating onto the rear glide zone? What are some good non-petroleum (as
in non-flammable, I live in an apartment) wax removers? Or are there better
ways of removing old kick wax. Again, when corking in kick wax, how smooth
do you make it? Are there times when it would be better to leave it kind of
"lumpy"?

I know how to make skating and alpine skis go fast, but this part of the
sport seems like black majic!

Thanks and Merry Christmas,

-Jeff



I just tried out the new Start grip tape and found it to be pretty good.
It is supposed to last for a long (weeks?/months?) time and has a wide
temp range so you don't have to fiddle with it. It has resurrected my
interest in wax type skis.
Now if only the snow will show up here (Rochester, NY)
gr

gr wrote:
Wile E. Coyote wrote:

Is there a good on-line or printed source of info dealing specifically
with
prep and waxing of classic skis? After all these years in the sport,
I have
come to the realization that I have never truly understood all the
mysteries
of kick wax application. For example, is base binder always a good
thing,
or is it just for marathon distance racing? When applying your kick
waxes,
and then corking them in, is there a way to remove some of that which
ends
up migrating onto the rear glide zone? What are some good
non-petroleum (as
in non-flammable, I live in an apartment) wax removers? Or are there
better
ways of removing old kick wax. Again, when corking in kick wax, how
smooth
do you make it? Are there times when it would be better to leave it
kind of
"lumpy"?

I know how to make skating and alpine skis go fast, but this part of the
sport seems like black majic!

Thanks and Merry Christmas,

-Jeff



I just tried out the new Start grip tape and found it to be pretty good.
It is supposed to last for a long (weeks?/months?) time and has a wide
temp range so you don't have to fiddle with it. It has resurrected my
interest in wax type skis.
Now if only the snow will show up here (Rochester, NY)

Hm, i don't think it is the griptape that gives you the good grip...
Lack of snow can have some part in it also..... ;-)))))

am wrote:
gr wrote:

Wile E. Coyote wrote:

Is there a good on-line or printed source of info dealing
specifically with
prep and waxing of classic skis? After all these years in the sport,
I have
come to the realization that I have never truly understood all the
mysteries
of kick wax application. For example, is base binder always a good
thing,
or is it just for marathon distance racing? When applying your kick
waxes,
and then corking them in, is there a way to remove some of that which
ends
up migrating onto the rear glide zone? What are some good
non-petroleum (as
in non-flammable, I live in an apartment) wax removers? Or are there
better
ways of removing old kick wax. Again, when corking in kick wax, how
smooth
do you make it? Are there times when it would be better to leave it
kind of
"lumpy"?

I know how to make skating and alpine skis go fast, but this part of the
sport seems like black majic!

Thanks and Merry Christmas,

-Jeff



I just tried out the new Start grip tape and found it to be pretty
good. It is supposed to last for a long (weeks?/months?) time and has
a wide temp range so you don't have to fiddle with it. It has
resurrected my interest in wax type skis.
Now if only the snow will show up here (Rochester, NY)


Hm, i don't think it is the griptape that gives you the good grip...
Lack of snow can have some part in it also..... ;-)))))

Hmmm.... that explains the poor glide, but excellent stability.
gr