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#1
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mounting bindings? 3.5mm vs. 4.1mm drill bit?
I mounted my own bindings recently (swap meet stuff) and had a local
shop function test the bindings. After I did some reading....I found that I was supposed to use a 4.1mm drill bit and tap through the metal (aluminum?) sheet that runs through the middle of my skis. I only used a 3.5mm bit and didn't tap. what's the worst that can happen? realistically? is it worth pulling the binding re-drilling and re-tapping? will that make it worse or better? what's the benefit of using the 4.1mm bit? thanks...any advice appreciated and I won't sue anybody if my skis explode. carl |
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#2
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mounting bindings? 3.5mm vs. 4.1mm drill bit?
superfastcarl wrote:
I mounted my own bindings recently (swap meet stuff) and had a local shop function test the bindings. After I did some reading....I found that I was supposed to use a 4.1mm drill bit and tap through the metal (aluminum?) sheet that runs through the middle of my skis. I only used a 3.5mm bit and didn't tap. what's the worst that can happen? realistically? I think you mean 3.6mm? Binding drills are 4.1 x 9 and 3.6 x 9. You are correct that the 4.1 x 9mm bit is for metal lam skis and the 3.6 x 9mm bit is for most other alpine skis. Are you sure you have metal lam skis? I'm surprised you could screw the screw into a 3.6 untapped hole on metal skis by hand. Assuming you do have metal skis, I imagine the metal sheet could be warped by the screws in undersize holes, but I wouldn't worry about it - what are you going to do if you pull the bindings, redrill and tap, and the screws don't hold in the now butchered holes? Ski on them until they die. It's too late now, so get on with your season. If you have premature failure, chalk it up as a learning experience. is it worth pulling the binding re-drilling and re-tapping? will that make it worse or better? what's the benefit of using the 4.1mm bit? thanks...any advice appreciated and I won't sue anybody if my skis explode. carl |
#3
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mounting bindings? 3.5mm vs. 4.1mm drill bit?
actually I"m not sure it's a full sheet of metal in there. It's a
middle layer...but it could also be a layer of some sort of weave that has metal in it, but not a full sheet. They're K2 Axis skis...not sure what year. I was always under the impression that skis that required a 4.1mm bit usually had it stamped or written on the skis themselves. at any rate...I'm not too worried about it at this point. I've got a relatively low DIN setting for my skier type so the chances of me puling the binding out before I pop out of the binding first is slim. thanks, Carl On Nov 11, 8:54 am, lal_truckee wrote: superfastcarl wrote: I mounted my own bindings recently (swap meet stuff) and had a local shop function test the bindings. After I did some reading....I found that I was supposed to use a 4.1mm drill bit and tap through the metal (aluminum?) sheet that runs through the middle of my skis. I only used a 3.5mm bit and didn't tap. what's the worst that can happen? realistically?I think you mean 3.6mm? Binding drills are 4.1 x 9 and 3.6 x 9. You are correct that the 4.1 x 9mm bit is for metal lam skis and the 3.6 x 9mm bit is for most other alpine skis. Are you sure you have metal lam skis? I'm surprised you could screw the screw into a 3.6 untapped hole on metal skis by hand. Assuming you do have metal skis, I imagine the metal sheet could be warped by the screws in undersize holes, but I wouldn't worry about it - what are you going to do if you pull the bindings, redrill and tap, and the screws don't hold in the now butchered holes? Ski on them until they die. It's too late now, so get on with your season. If you have premature failure, chalk it up as a learning experience. is it worth pulling the binding re-drilling and re-tapping? will that make it worse or better? what's the benefit of using the 4.1mm bit? thanks...any advice appreciated and I won't sue anybody if my skis explode. carl |
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