Glue for Swix pole handles ?

Anyone got a recommendation for glue to fix the handles back onto a set of
Swix Mountain poles ? These are plain aluminium poles with a sued-like grip
(may be synthetic) over an under-grip.

Its a long story about post office loosing poles, but the result is that I
have a set which are too long and no options for a set the correct length
from the supplier. The supplying shop has recommended removing the handles
by immersion in very hot water to soften the glue, then cutting pole down
with a pipe cutter. All stuff I can do technically.

But, what to stick them back with ? The shop hasn't been totally helpful
(suspect that adhesive technology might not be a strong point) and suggested
things including PVA wood glue, Cynoacrylics (superglue), Epoxy resin
(araldite). These are all somewhat different adhesives.

Anyone know what one should use before I start the operation ?

I'll see if Swix respond to an email enquiry about glue.



- Nigel



--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

Nigel Cliffe wrote:
: But, what to stick them back with ? The shop hasn't been totally helpful
: (suspect that adhesive technology might not be a strong point) and suggested
: things including PVA wood glue, Cynoacrylics (superglue), Epoxy resin
: (araldite). These are all somewhat different adhesives.

there's stuff called gorilla glue that will do the job, that's a brand
name. 1 part wood glue (PVA? dunno.) that's waterproof. or go with the
2part epoxy resin. the superglue i think you'll find becomes brittle, and
will give out in he cold.

Matt wrote:
Nigel Cliffe wrote:
: But, what to stick them back with ? The shop hasn't been totally helpful
: (suspect that adhesive technology might not be a strong point) and suggested
: things including PVA wood glue, Cynoacrylics (superglue), Epoxy resin
: (araldite). These are all somewhat different adhesives.

there's stuff called gorilla glue that will do the job, that's a brand
name. 1 part wood glue (PVA? dunno.) that's waterproof. or go with the
2part epoxy resin. the superglue i think you'll find becomes brittle, and
will give out in he cold.

I would also highly recommend Gorilla Glue but:
be aware that the stuff expands as it hardens.
Yes, hardens. It's basically a two-part mixture
like epoxy, the basis is urethane and the second
part of the mixture is moisture in the air. For
that reason buy the smallest quantity that you
can because shelf-life is limited after opening.

If the stuff squeezes out, the only way to clean
it off after hardening is by cutting or grinding.
There is no solvent for the hardened stuff. That,
of course, is why it is so great. Also, it stays
somewhat flexible after hardening. Good for
retreading sandals and the like.

VtSkier wrote:
Matt wrote:
Nigel Cliffe wrote:
But, what to stick them back with ? The shop hasn't been totally
helpful (suspect that adhesive technology might not be a strong
point) and suggested things including PVA wood glue, Cynoacrylics
(superglue), Epoxy resin (araldite). These are all somewhat
different adhesives.

there's stuff called gorilla glue that will do the job, that's a
brand name. 1 part wood glue (PVA? dunno.) that's waterproof. or
go with the 2part epoxy resin. the superglue i think you'll find
becomes brittle, and will give out in he cold.

I would also highly recommend Gorilla Glue but:
be aware that the stuff expands as it hardens.
Yes, hardens. It's basically a two-part mixture
like epoxy, the basis is urethane and the second
part of the mixture is moisture in the air. For
that reason buy the smallest quantity that you
can because shelf-life is limited after opening.

If the stuff squeezes out, the only way to clean
it off after hardening is by cutting or grinding.
There is no solvent for the hardened stuff. That,
of course, is why it is so great. Also, it stays
somewhat flexible after hardening. Good for
retreading sandals and the like.



Thanks. Sounds a possible, but with a "use only a tiny amount" caution.


- Nigel




--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

If the handle can be unbonded by heat (i.e. hot water), it is probably
glued using ferrule cement or glue. Pole ferrule glue is applied by
heating the glue and applying to the stick. Replace the grip, properly
positioned, before it hardens as it cools. Same process for replacing
backet/ferrules. A full service ski shop should have furrule glue.

To remove, heat as you have been instructed, You do not need to add
new glue except where you cut the glued section of the stick off.

Edgar

Edgar wrote:
If the handle can be unbonded by heat (i.e. hot water), it is probably
glued using ferrule cement or glue. Pole ferrule glue is applied by
heating the glue and applying to the stick. Replace the grip,
properly positioned, before it hardens as it cools. Same process for
replacing backet/ferrules. A full service ski shop should have
furrule glue.

Thanks. Only problem is ski shop. I live where it doesn't snow, so the
only ski shops are when I travel away to snowy areas.

I think the rest of the thread is starting to get me to an answer.


To remove, heat as you have been instructed, You do not need to add
new glue except where you cut the glued section of the stick off.



--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

Edgar wrote:
If the handle can be unbonded by heat (i.e. hot water), it is probably
glued using ferrule cement or glue. Pole ferrule glue is applied by
heating the glue and applying to the stick. Replace the grip, properly
positioned, before it hardens as it cools. Same process for replacing
backet/ferrules. A full service ski shop should have furrule glue.

To remove, heat as you have been instructed, You do not need to add
new glue except where you cut the glued section of the stick off.

Edgar

Why not hot melt glue used for crafts and various fixits?
gr

gr wrote:
Edgar wrote:
If the handle can be unbonded by heat (i.e. hot water), it is probably
glued using ferrule cement or glue. Pole ferrule glue is applied by
heating the glue and applying to the stick. Replace the grip, properly
positioned, before it hardens as it cools. Same process for replacing
backet/ferrules. A full service ski shop should have furrule glue.

To remove, heat as you have been instructed, You do not need to add
new glue except where you cut the glued section of the stick off.

Edgar

Why not hot melt glue used for crafts and various fixits?
gr

Good question re craft type hot melt glue. The answer will depend on
the temperature needed to soften or unbond the glue. Ferrule glue for
poles seems to unbond at a temperature below 100C (boiling point of
water at normal pressure). The handles or baskets/ferrules can be
unbonded by heating the pole in boiling water, or with care, by a hot
air gun. At 100C, the heat does not seem to damage the plastic of the
baskets or handle, or the resin of carbon fiber poles. So, the
question is what temperature does craft glue need to be heated to to
unbond the glue and will that temparture (heat input) damage a
resin-fiber pole shaft, plastic ferrule/basket, or the grip?

Of course, if you never need to redo the grip or ferrule, then any good
waterpoof adhesive will work.

Edgar

Edgar wrote:
gr wrote:
Edgar wrote:
If the handle can be unbonded by heat (i.e. hot water), it is
probably glued using ferrule cement or glue. Pole ferrule glue is
applied by heating the glue and applying to the stick. Replace the
grip, properly positioned, before it hardens as it cools. Same
process for replacing backet/ferrules. A full service ski shop
should have furrule glue.

To remove, heat as you have been instructed, You do not need to add
new glue except where you cut the glued section of the stick off.

Edgar

Why not hot melt glue used for crafts and various fixits?
gr

Good question re craft type hot melt glue. The answer will depend on
the temperature needed to soften or unbond the glue.

To which the answer seems to be 170-200C for most hot-glues. There are some
"low temperature" types, but they are around 120C.


Ferrule glue for
poles seems to unbond at a temperature below 100C (boiling point of
water at normal pressure). The handles or baskets/ferrules can be
unbonded by heating the pole in boiling water,

Something I'd be keen to be able to do if required. The leather handle can
go inside a high temperature plastic bag (grocery store for cooking
purposes), and then be dumped in a pan of boiling water. The handle gets
hot, but the leather doesn't get a soaking.

air gun. At 100C, the heat does not seem to damage the plastic of the
baskets or handle, or the resin of carbon fiber poles. So, the
question is what temperature does craft glue need to be heated to to
unbond the glue and will that temparture (heat input) damage a
resin-fiber pole shaft, plastic ferrule/basket, or the grip?

Ferule glue looks like the best idea on the table so far. Possibly its
Shellac under a different name ?


Its getting a bit late for googling here, but I'll look up Shellac
properties another day.


- Nigel



--
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

We cut poles down all the time, and don't use glue. The handle is tight
and usually stays on fine. If, when your done and the handle is loose,
take it back off and use epoxy...